I hate to disapoint you but the mixture screw will not clean out your carburator. It is vary easy to rebuild this carb I have an 85 2.8 2 barral have rebuilt it 4 or 5 times for about 30 dollars for kit its a Rodchester .So get the kit get some brake cleaner with the tube to spray through the passages its basiclly a power valve and new gaskets take it apart and clean it and it will work like new evertime
SOURCE: i have a 1980 honda accrod 1.8 li....
The nob on the back is the idel set., the float adjustments are the 2 recessed areas on diverside on top of carb.. Be aware by turning to try to set float can cause problems. If you do turn be sure to count number of turns for each so you can reset to original settings if carb starts to flood or starve. What are you trying to acheive?
SOURCE: 1980 Trans am original 4.9 engine. I messed up fuel and air screw
Screw each one in all they way, and then back them out two and a half times, then start it up and then ajust each until it runs smooth.
SOURCE: emissions/vacuum lines
Visit the autozone.com website and register the truck information. It's free and will give you access to an online repair manual for the truck. The vacuum diagrams should be available there. It's a pretty handy resource for automotive maintenance projects. Hope this helped and best wishes.
SOURCE: emissions/vacuum lines
Check the library,they have books that can help.you need the engine size,manual or automatic trans,and engine calibration number,on the valve cover
(if it is there)
SOURCE: 1999 Ford F-250 Super Duty 6.8 liter v10 is
You'll have to drain system down when cooled off, remove any brackets in your way such as power steering reservoir holding bracket, then remove 2 bolts holding the housing, and remove it. Rad hose should be o.k. to leave on, but if it creates a problem, remove it as well. I'd install a new thermostat and "o" ring complete,then a new gasket as well. Clean all surfaces well before re-installing. Replace any bracket(s) you removed to access housing, after housing is installed. Remember, air valve on edge of thermostat goes in 3 oclock position when re-installed. Also a reminder as well, spring on thermostat goes down when re-installed. After all is re-assembled, re-fill coolant and start engine and run with heater on to bleed out all air. Leave rad cap off and pay attention to temperature gauge and when you see it getting to normal operating temperature, watch flow in rad for increased flow, indicating thermostat opened and coolant is circulating properly. Wait until you see that flow increase 2 or 3 times, and air should be out of system, and top up coolant in rad, put cap back on, and check that return bottle is at proper level as well. Keep an eye for any leaks, and re-check return bottle periodically for first little while, just to be sure all is good. Note: some only use the "O" ring as a seal, and no gasket is required, but just check that at autoparts place where you get part.
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