What size bolt holds the caliper carrier on a 90 isuzu trooper

Probably 12mm X 1.5mm. Length is about 1 1/2 inches and 3 1/2 inches. They are metric.

depend on motor size but any hardcast bolt with lockn nut should work... ace hardware or lowes has a isle of harded cast bolts and nuts

Cylinder head Renew bolts: Yes Tighten: 25 Nm Tighten: 90° Tighten: 90° Tighten: 90° Other engine tightening torques Main bearings Renew bolts/nuts: Yes Main bearings Stage 1: 50 Nm Main bearings Stage 2: 45°-60° Big end bearings Renew bolts/nuts: Yes Big end bearings Stage 1: 35 Nm Big end bearings Stage 2: 45°-60° Oil pump to cylinder block : 6 Nm Sump bolts : 15 Nm Sump drain bolt : 55 Nm Flywheel/driveplate :

• Use new bolts and tighten as follows:
  • 1,4/1,6 = 35 Nm + 30° + 15°
  • 1,8/2,0 = 65 Nm + 30° + 15°
• "Pot"-type flywheel = 65 Nm + 30° + 15°
• Tighten drive plate to 60 Nm.

Clutch pressure plate : 15 Nm Crankshaft pulley/damper centre bolt : Use new bolts. Tighten centre bolt to 130 Nm + 40°-50°
Camshaft sprocket/gear : 45 Nm Camshaft/rocker cover : 8 Nm Inlet manifold to cylinder head : 22 Nm Exhaust manifold to cylinder head : 22 Nm Spark plugs : 25 Nm Lambda sensor (Oxygen) : 30 Nm Chassis tightening torques Front hub :

• Tighten nut in three stages:
  1. 130 Nm
  2. Slacken off
  3. 20 Nm + 80°-90°.

Steering track rod end : New nuts 60 Nm Brake disc to hub Front: 4 Nm Brake caliper to carrier Front: 30 Nm Brake caliper/carrier to hub Front: 95 Nm Brake caliper/carrier to hub Rear: 80 Nm New bolts ABS sensor Front: 8 Nm ABS sensor Rear: 15 Nm Road wheels : 110 Nm
There you go pretty much covers everything hope that helps

remove the bolts. if you need to ask this you should not do brakes.
pins or bolts. the below is trooper and is like all cars, just about.
alldata.com shows it as does the real FSM (fact.serv. man)
since this is safety issues, ill pop it up

• Use a turkey baster or other suitable device to remove the brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir. Discard of the brake fluid properly. Do not reuse old brake fluid.
• Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
• Remove the wheel and tire assemblies.
• If the brake pads are being replaced (and the caliper is NOT being overhauled), install a C-clamp on the caliper with the solid frame side of the clamp rests against the back of the caliper and the driving screw end rests against the metal part (center backing plate) of the outboard pad. Tighten the clamp until the caliper moves sufficiently to bottom the piston in the bore, then remove the clamp.
• Remove the caliper mounting bolts from the back of the caliper. If the caliper is not being completely removed from the vehicle, detach it from the mounting bracket and support it using a coat hanger or length of wire. DO NOT allow the hose to be stretched, twisted, kinked or otherwise damaged.
• If the caliper is being completely removed from the vehicle, place a drip pan below the caliper and disconnect the flexible brake hose-to-caliper banjo-bolt. Discard the pressure fitting washers, then remove the brake caliper from the vehicle and place it on a clean work surface.
• To inspect the caliper assembly, perform the following procedures:
  
  • Check the inside of the caliper assembly for pitting or scoring. If heavy scoring or pitting is present, caliper replacement is recommended.
  • Check the mounting bolts and sleeves for signs of corrosion; if necessary, replace the bolts.
• warning
• If the mounting bolts have signs of corrosion, DO NOT attempt to polish away the corrosion. Instead the bolts must be replaced to assure proper caliper sliding and prevent the possibility of brake drag or locking.
• warning 2, do not fail to inspect rotors for CRACKS.
• end tip of IceBerg.

2 bolts at the rear of the caliper. Be sure to loosen the correct ones. Stick your head in under the wheel arch. You will see 4 bolts on the caliper and its holding bracket. 2 that hold the bracket to the hub carrier. The other 2 locate the caliper on the bracket and also act as guide pins for the caliper to move on. You can ID them by a rubber boot/seal. Loosen the top one. Remove the bottom one completely and the caliper will swing up exposing the pads. Also see this :
http://www.fixya.com/cars/t5238518-2000_sentra_colapse_rear_brake_calipers
if you have problems getting the piston back in. Different car, same principle.

1. jack up vechicle, support by jack stands
2. remove tire
3. remove bolts holding caliper
4. remove 2 bolts holding caliper bracket to spindle
5. slide rotor off
6. repeat in reverse order

For a wrench or for the acctual bolt size.
To remove front pads..you need 8mm allen socket to pull the caliper guide pins, then 17 or 18mm..To remove rear pads...you need 13mm socket for lock bolt on guide pins and 15mm open end wrench (thin section to hold guide pin while you remove lock bolts..I ground down a spare wrench). You DO NOT have to remove rear carriers to change rotors..just remove lock screw and angle rotor out. The B5 Passats don't have the electronic parking brake so you don't need VAG Com to change pads.
Installation tips:
Clean and regrease the guide pins with "synthetic caliper grease"
Rear lock bolts come with preapplied thread locker and "are not to be reused"..I just wire brush the threads and use some Loctite Blue on em. I smear just a little antisieze on the inside bore of the rotors and on the lock screw threads to prevent corrosion and make next rotor change ez. Torques:
Front caliper guide pins:18 ft lb
Front carrier bolts: 89 ft lb
Rear guide pin lock bolts:26 ft lb
Wheel lugs: 89 ft lb

are they drums on the rear? if not you can do this. on the caliper there should be 2 bolts holding it on. loosen one and pull the other out. lift the caliper up or down remove pads open the master cylinder so that you can compres the piston on the caliper. if you dont open the master sylinder cap it will be very tough. replace pads. tighten bolts nice and snug. then with car off pump brakes till tough. make sure you fill the master sylinder up that way no air gets in to it. if you do you gonna have to bleed the brakes. if that happens start at the passenger side rear then driver side rear then passenger front then driver front. please lemme know if you need help or if i helpd at all

You'll have to rock the alternator back and forth to get the bushing that the lower bolt goes through to slide back enough for the alternator to slide out.

remove front wheel ,look at back of caliper and and look for teh two retaining bolts that hold the caliper to the support bracket.if not sure take it to a garage as any mistake could kill someone