Ignition coil not responding new

1. Spark plugs removal

1.1. Front cylinder bank spark plugs removal:
1.1.1. Disconnect the battery from car terminals.
1.1.2. Remove the engine plastic cover.
1.1.3. Disconnect the ignition coils electrical supply cable and all three coils connectors.
1.1.4. Remove all three ignition coils screws.
1.1.5. Remove all three ignition coils out from cylinder head.
1.1.6. Remove all three spark plugs out from cylinder head (straight forward).

1.2. Back cylinder head bank spark plugs removal:
1.2.1. Remove the inlet manifold out from cylinder head.
1.2.2. Disconnect all three ignition coils connectors.
1.2.3. Remove all three ignition coils screws.
1.2.4. Remove all three ignition coils out from cylinder head.
1.2.5. Remove all three spark plugs out from cylinder head (straight forward).

2. Spark plugs installation

2.1. Refit all in reverse order.
2.2. Spark plugs tightening torque = 2,8 +/- 0,3 daN.m
2.3. Ignition coils tightening torque = 0,8 +/- 0,2 daN.m

Check for spark. Maybe a crankshaft position sensor is bad or a module.

Secondary Spark Test This spark tester looks just like a spark plug, attach the clip to ground and crank the engine to check for spark
This spark tester has an adjustable air-gap for measuring spark strength and testing different voltage ignition systems
Attach the clip to ground and crank the engine to check for spark
This spark tester is the easiest to use just place it on a plug wire and the spark voltage is detected and the bulb on the top will flash with each pulse
The best way to perform this procedure is to use a spark tester (available at most automotive parts stores). Three types of spark testers are commonly available. The Neon Bulb type is connected to the spark plug wire and flashes with each ignition pulse. The Air Gap type must be adjusted to the individual spark plug gap specified for the engine. The last type of spark plug tester looks like a spark plug with a grounding clip on the side, but there is no side electrode for the spark to jump to. The last two types of testers allows the user to not only detect the presence of spark, but also the intensity (orange/yellow is weak, blue is strong).

1. Disconnect a spark plug wire at the spark plug end.
2. Connect the plug wire to the spark tester and ground the tester to an appropriate location on the engine.
3. Crank the engine and check for spark at the tester.
4. If spark exists at the tester, the ignition system is functioning properly.
5. If spark does not exist at the spark plug wire, perform diagnosis of the ignition system using individual component diagnosis procedures.

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Ignition Coil Testing

1. Remove suspect coil.
2. Disable fuel pump by disconnecting inertia switch electrical connector.
3. Reconnect the ignition coil electrical connector to the coil.
4. Install spark tester 303-D307 (D81P-6666-A) or the equivalent.
5. Crank engine while observing the tester.
6. If a blue-white spark is not observed replace coil.

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Removal & Installation To Remove:

1. Remove the air cleaner outlet pipe if interfering.
2. Disconnect the connector from the ignition coil.
   
   
3. Remove the bolt from the ignition coil.
   
   
4. Remove the ignition coil on plug.

To Install:

1. Install ignition coil on spark plug.
2. Install ignition coil bolt. Tighten to 10 Nm (89 in. lbs.).
   
   
3. Reconnect the ignition coil electrical connector.
   
   
4. Install the air cleaner outlet pipe if removed earlier.

is the your car engine cranking when you try to start, first check spark plugs ignition coils, remove one ignition coil and spark plug fix the spark plug in to the ignition coil then connect ignition coil to wiring and keep spark plug body touching on ground of engine head mettle parts, ask some one to crank engine then you can see is the plug sparking or not, do the same way to all the coils and plug otherwise you have to buy a ignition spark tester, is the all the coils and spark plugs are OK then check the fuel pump, it's sitting in under rear seat, before that do one thing disconnect oxygen (O2) sensor wiring and crank engine, the thing is if your oxygen sensor completely dead fuel pump will stop working, if engine start after disconnect O2 sensor, replace new O2 sensor, otherwise need to check fuel pump relay fuse and fuel pump. is this information helped you? please vote me and give a comment.

Ignition coil sit on top of valve cover, follow one of the spark plug wire's, there will be six of them three in the front of the engine on the radiator side and three on the back of the engine next to the fire wall, the spark plug wire will plug right into the coil.Mark your wire's before removing from coil pack so they go back on the same way.

On the 3.5L the Electronic Coil Packs are located over the Cylinders/Spark Plugs.
These Coil Packs have seven (7) bolts on a Black Cover. Remove these seven (7) bolts, removing the Cover.
Access to the three (3) Front Spark Plugs is now gained.
The Rear three (3) Spark Plugs is the same, however it is in a tight spot near the Fire Wall.

Standard Rules: Some things are not Applicable for your specific engine.
Use a Spark Plug Socket to remove and install Spark Plugs.
Replace (remove) one Wire Connections at a time from one Spark Plug.
Replace One Spark Plug at a time. Use Anti-Seize Grease applied moderately to the threads on the new Spark Plug.
Using a Socket (with a extension) START all installations of all Sprak Plugs using your hands. This prevents cross-threading and stripping of the threads inside the Heads.
Standard Torque 15-20 ft-lbs.
Replace the One Wire Connection to that One Spark Plug.
Replace that One Wire Connection to the Ignition Coil Connection.
Go onto the next Spark Plug using the above Rules.
Repeat.

For the 3.5L
Firing Order:
1-2-3-4-5-6
Cylinders:
.....(back)
1......3.......5
2......4.......6
....(front)

Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.Com!

The ignition coils are mounted on it. Just follow the spark plug wires.

2003 Chevrolet Malibu 3.1L SFI OHV 6cyl
Spark Plug Wires - Removal & Installation

3.5L Engine

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
   NOTE Twist the spark plug boot one-half turn in order to release the boot. Pull on the spark plug boot only. Do not pull on the spark plug wire or the wire could be damaged.
2. Remove the intake manifold cover, if required.
3. Disconnect the left side spark plug wires from the spark plugs.
4. Disconnect the left side spark plug wires from the ignition coil.
5. Remove the spark plug wire clips from the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor bracket and the heater inlet and outlet pipe tab.
6. Remove the spark plug wire assembly.
7. If replacing only one plug wire, open the retaining clips and remove the appropriate spark plug wire.
8. Disconnect the right side spark plug wires from the spark plugs.
9. Disconnect the right side spark plugs from the ignition coils.
10. Remove the spark plug wire assembly.
11. If replacing only one plug wire, open the retaining clip and remove the appropriate spark plug wire.

To install:

1. Install the spark plug wire assembly.
2. Connect the right side spark plugs to the ignition coils.
3. Connect the right side spark plug wires to the spark plugs.
4. If replacing only one plug wire, open the retaining clip and install the appropriate spark plug wire.
5. Install the spark plug wire assembly.
6. Connect the left side spark plug wires to the spark plugs.
7. Connect the left side spark plug wires to the ignition coil.
8. Install the spark plug wire clips to the MAP sensor bracket and the heater inlet and outlet pipe tab.
9. If replacing only one plug wire, open the retaining clips and install the appropriate spark plug wire.
10. Install the intake manifold cover, if required.

Fig. 2.2L Engine Firing Order: 1-3-4-2 Distributorless ignition system



Fig. 3.1L Engine Firing order: 1-2-3-4-5-6 Distributorless ignition system



Fig. 3.5L Engine Firing order: 1-2-3-4-5-6 Distributorless ignition system



Fig. 2.4L Engine Firing order: 1-3-4-2 Distributorless ignition system



Fig. 3.1L Engine Firing order: 1-2-3-4-5-6 Distributorless ignition system



Fig. 2.2L Engine Firing Order: 1-3-4-2 Distributorless ignition system


Fig. 3.5L & 3.9L Engines Firing order: 1-2-3-4-5-6 Distributorless ignition system


I really hope help you with this (remember rated this help) Good luck.

If it is the 3.5 V/6 three plugs in the front and three in the rear you can't see the three in the rear. you have three coils on the front plugs each coil splits into three wires for the rear plugs.

There are three kinds of gasoline engine misfire scenarios, first there is the "under load" misfire and there is the "at engine idle" misfire, and finally there is misfire continuously. All engine misfires exist because one of three things has occurred. First, a cylinder has lost compression, a cylinder needs a certain amount of compression to operate correctly. Second, the ignition system has failed or is failing intermittently, spark is needed at the time of compression to ignite the fuel air mixture. Third, the fuel air mixture is incorrect, proper mixture is needed for the ignition system to ignite fuel properly. If any of these conditions occur in the engine, the engine will misfire.
1. Low or no compression can be caused by

a. burned or leaking intake or exhaust valves
b. worn or broken piston or piston rings
c. worn out camshaft
d. wrong weight motor oil was installed holding the cam followers from adjusting
e. broken valve spring
f. failed head gasket.
2. Ignition system has failed or is failing
a. spark plug has fouled or is worn out
b. ignition coil
has failed
c. spark plug wires have shorted
e. engine control module coil driver has failed
3. Fuel/Air Mixture is incorrect
a. vacuum leak at the intake manifold
b. fuel injector has failed
c. EGR valve is stuck open
d. mass air flow sensor has failed
e. oxygen sensor has failed
f. air intake boot is cracked

common problems:
1. fuel injector has failed or is failing
2. spark plug wire has shorted
3. spark plug is worn out or is cracked
4. ignition coil has failed is failing

Testing a coil on the car is pretty easy. No special tools are required. Just remember to be careful, the amount of electricity generated by your ignition system can be dangerous. If your coil is already off the car, or if you would like a more specific data-driven test, you can bench test your coil. To set up the test, remove one spark plug wire from its plug, then remove the spark plug using a spark plug socket. Next put the spark plug back into the spark plug wire. Be careful not to let anything drop into the empty spark plug hole -- very bad.

Subaru engines (including Legacy and engines of many other automobiles, GM, etc.) have returned to so-called wasted spark ignition systems since advent of the electronic distributor-less ignition (having been used historically in early engines with magneto ignitions). With this approach, the ignition systems are less expensive and usually quite reliable. At the same time, however, a shorted spark plug (cracked or carbon clogged, etc.) (or bad ignition spark plug wire) grounds both the ignition spark and the false spark being used. This means that it also grounds the corresponding respective ignition spark of the other 180 degree out of phase cylinder (that uses the same the same coil because the spark current is connected to the spark plugs of two cylinders). Since such a defect allows more current to flow in the spark coil to two plugs when the resistance of the spark plug gap disappears due to a cracked plug, etc, it seems likely to hasten coil burn out if the spark plug/plug wire defect is not corrected before installing the new spark coil.

To explain further, wasted spark means that when a cylinder is ready to fire, it gets a spark to its spark plug while part of the spark (from the same coil and current) as a sort of copy is also sent to another cyclinder at the same time but when the piston in that cylinder is exhausting its ignited gases 180 degrees out of phase from when its spark is needed. When the second cylinder is ready to fire and receives its "spark, the first cyclinder the also receivesa "wasted" spark "copy" of the one needed by the second cylinder. Economy is achieved in manufacture because otherwise electronics would have to turn on and off four different spark coils to distribute four different sparks as needed to the four cylinders. With wasted sparks (which are cheap), because the spark current of one coil is connected (internally in the ignition coil unit) to two cylinders that are in the same position but 180 degrees out of phase in firing, the system can turn on and off two spark coils twice as fast with half the electronics and fire two cylinders that are 180 degrees out of phase. A four cylinder engine thus uses only two coils, a six cylinder engine, three coils, etc., in a wasted spark system.