Tom, I checked for power @ the 4 point plug to the switch. good ground but no power. could it be the resistor?

check for power and ground at the blower motor. if this is good then hit motor. if it starts the motor needs replacing. then check the fuse then the fan speed switch for power and ground going to the switch and coming out of switch.

check the blower motor resistor

Remove blower motor resistor and check to see if it discolored or melted. if so then replace blower motor resistor, also blower motor speeds 1-4 go through resistor, 5 goes direct from switch to blower motor. check wire harness connector at resistor, it should have six wires five power wires that corralate with the five settings on switch, so in each switch setting one wire should have power. the sixth wire is the ground. also harness connector to resistor it may be melted, if so go to dealer with vin number and get new harness connector with resistor.
I hope this helped.

There are two fuses a 40 amp in the power distribution center and a 10 amp in the fuse block. Are they good?

This is a ground side controlled system meaning the switch provides ground instead of power. With everthing plugged in there should be power on all the wires coming out of the blower motor resistor ( brown w/ tan, Light Blue, Light green w/ black, and tan wires). If you ground any of those wires the blower motor should run. If it does check the dark green wire at the HVAC control head. Backprobe that wire with it plugged in if there is power than either the control head is bad ( the mode switch has the final say in the path to ground for the blower motor. When the mode switch is in the off position the blower will not work. When it is in any other position (vent/floor/defrost) it allows the path to ground for the blower motor to be complete.

The last thing to check is to make sure the black wire coming out of the control head has a good ground. That is the final path to ground for the blower motor.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Since you have the manual, I recommend you check the parts that are easy to check. For example, can you get to the resistor? The resistor is in the middle between the motor and the control panel. If you have a multimeter, you can probably diagnose the problem right at the resistor connector. I couldn't find Scotsdale, so I don't know if I have the right wiring diagram. Maybe you have the right one in your manual. Either way, I'm going to use the one below to describe troubleshooting, and hopefully you can apply the process even if your wires are a little different.
The way the switch works is to power one of the three wires to the resistor by connecting the input power on the brown wire to one of the other three. So, at the resistor connector, if your switch is working, and the key is on, the voltage in each of the connector terminals should be 12 volts when the switch is on that setting. Find a good chassis ground point to use for your negative meter lead. With the fan on low, the brown wire should be hot. On medium, it is the light blue wire, and on high, the orange wire. That's it for testing the switch. If the power is there, the switch is good. If that's good, plug the connector back into the resistor. Now probe the orange wire from the back by sticking your meter probe in next to the wire. With the key on, the orange wire should have different voltages as you change the settings. On, low, it should have only around 4 volts, etc. If there is no voltage at the orange wire with the switch on medium or low, the resistor is bad. If voltage is getting out of the orange wire on all settings but the blower doesn't turn, the blower is bad. Please let me know if you have questions.

here is how your system works. The mode switch provides power to the blower relay. With the relay on, 12 volts goes from the relay to the blower motor. The negative power comes thru the resistor and switch (except for Lo, which doesn't go thru the swtich), which also has a thermal fuse. If the 50 amp fuse in the engine compartment is good, the thermal fuse in the resistor is the most likely cause, though switch failure often causes the thermal switch to blow. You should use an ohmmeter to test the switch for multiple continuities. There is no power to the switch except what comes thru the motor and resistor. Please see my tip at http://www.fixya.com/cars/r6234839-doesn_t_heater_or_air_conditioner_blow and let me know if you have questions.

Check for ground to blower switch. Should also have ground out when switch turned on. The ground out wire goes to your blower motor resistor then to your motor. If ground completes out of switch when turned on, switch ok check for bad blower motor resistor.

the resitor operates ground, if theres no power then its a bad fuse under the hood in the power fusebox, or #10 fuse inside the leftside of dash, power for the blower comes from the ignition switch,double check all fuses,if you had no ground to blower then i would say the resistor,make sure you have a good ground on the test light, then check for power with key on again, heres a wiring diagram to help you, good luck.

what about the actual control panel, maybe its the switch?

It could be a bad blower motor - tap on the blower motor with the end of a hammer when you have the switch in the on position - if it comes on then it is a bad blower motor. If it doesn't come on I would check to make sure you are getting power and ground to the HVAC control head.