In timing assembly Pulley knock - 1996 Nissan Maxima

in the factory service manual FSM.

or

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alldata.com

and read all the steps



3VZ-FE (and 2vz)
this is your engine. and has many steps

key is timing and proper belt tension and is free running engine.



quote

Prior to timing belt removal, make sure all the match-marks are there-2VZ-FE and 3VZ-FE engines

less photos:

the crank mark is CR -line

the cam pulleys, 3v pulley to R-cam mark

and 3v pulley to L-cam mark. (photos are best).

1. Remove the timing belt.

If the timing belt is to be reused, draw a directional arrow on the timing belt in the direction of engine rotation (clockwise) and place matchmarks on the timing belt and crankshaft gear to match the drilled mark on the pulley.

1. With a 10mm hex wrench, remove the setbolt, plate washer and the No. 1 idler pulley.



2. Remove the crankshaft timing pulley, if it can NOT be removed by hand, use two flat bladed tools. Position shop rags on the components to prevent damage.

TO INSTALL:

1. Turn the crankshaft until the key groove in the crankshaft timing pulley is facing upward. Slide the timing pulley on so that the flange side faces inward.



2. Apply bolt adhesive to the first few threads of the No. 1 idler pulley setbolt, install the plate washer and pulley and then tighten the bolt to 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm).



3. Install the timing belt on the crankshaft timing, No. 1 idler and water pump pulleys.

If the old timing belt is being reinstalled, make sure the directional arrow is facing in the original direction and that the belt and crankshaft gear matchmarks are properly aligned.

1. Install the lower (No. 1) timing cover and tighten the bolts.



2. Align the crankshaft pulley set key with the key groove on the pulley and slide the pulley on. Tighten the bolt to 181 ft. lbs. (245 Nm).



3. Install the No. 2 idler pulley and tighten the bolt to 29 ft. lbs. (39 Nm). Check that the pulley moves smoothly.



4. Slide the left pulley, facing the flange side outward. Align the knock pin hole of the camshaft with the knock pin of the timing pulley, then install the knock pin. Tighten the left camshaft timing pulley bolt to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).



5. Set the No. 1 cylinder to TDC again. Turn the right camshaft until the knock pin hole is aligned with the timing mark on the No. 3 belt cover. Turn the left pulley until the marks on the pulley are aligned with the mark on the No. 3 timing cover.



6. Check that the mark on the belt matches with the edge of the lower cover. If not, shift it on the crank pulley until it does. Turn the left pulley clockwise a bit and align the mark on the timing belt with the timing mark on the pulley. Slide the belt over the left pulley. Now move the pulley until the marks on it align with the one on the No. 3 cover. There should be tension on the belt between the crankshaft pulley and the left camshaft pulley.



7. Align the installation mark on the timing belt with the mark on the right side camshaft pulley. Hang the belt over the pulley with the flange facing inward. Align the timing marks on the right pulley with the one on the No. 3 cover and slide the pulley onto the end of the camshaft. Move the pulley until the camshaft knock pin hole is aligned with the groove in the pulley and then install the knock pin. Tighten the bolt to 55 ft. lbs. (75 Nm).



8. Position a plate washer between the timing belt tensioner and the a block and then press in the pushrod until the holes are aligned between it and the housing. Slide a 1.27mm (3VZ-FE 1.5mm) Allen wrench through the hole to keep the push rod set. Install the dust boot and then install the tensioner. Tighten the bolts to 20 ft. lbs. (26 Nm). Don\'t forget to pull out the Allen wrench!



9. Turn the crankshaft clockwise two complete revolutions and check that all marks are still in alignment. If they aren\'t, remove the timing belt and start over again.



10. Install the right engine mount bracket and tighten it to 30 ft. lbs. (39 Nm).



11. Position a new gasket and then install the upper (No. 2) timing cover. refer to the illustration for bolt positioning.



12. Install the spark plugs.



13. On the 2VZ-FE, install the right engine mount insulator. Tighten the bolt to 47 ft. lbs. (64 Nm), the bracket nut to 38 ft. lbs. (52 Nm) and the body nut to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm). Install the No. 1 stay and tighten it to 38 ft. lbs. (52 Nm). Install the No. 2 stay and tighten the bolt to 48 ft. lbs. (66 Nm) and the nut to 38 ft. lbs. (52 Nm).



14. On the 3VZ-FE, install the control rod and tighten the bolts to 47 ft. lbs. (64 Nm). Install the right stay and tighten it to 23 ft. lbs. (31 Nm).



15. Install and adjust the drive belts.



16. Install the fender apron seal and the wheel.



17. On the 3VZ-FE, install the No. 2 stay and tighten the bolt to 55 ft. lbs. (75 Nm), the nut to 46 ft. lbs. (62 Nm). Install the No. 3 stay and tighten it to 54 ft. lbs. (73 Nm).



18. Install the coolant overflow tank and the washer tank.



19. Install the power steering reservoir tank and the cruise control actuator.



20. Connect the battery cable, start the car and check for any leaks.

end quote.

knock sensor is located near crankshaft pulley(lower engine assembly)

Short answer is replace only what is broken. My thought is always the same. Do I want to be back in the same area fixing what I could have replaced the first time. I know it may not all be broken but the time is now to replace it all.

Hi Stvns, If the engine has a distributor align the pulley and pointer (both are on the front of the engine, the timing marks are on the front timing cover and the other on the crankshaft pulley.) paint a dot of white paint onto the pulley and another onto the 8 degree BTDC for ease of viewing. Find and have the correct size spanner (wrench) ready to loosen off the locking bolt of the distributor. Connect a strobe timing light, start the engine and move the distributor until the two white dots align. Tighten up the locking bolt and remove the strobe. If it does not have a distributor the timing is automatically adjusted. If it is out, have the vehicle scanned and you will probably discover that the knock sensor has become defective. The knock sensor is responsible for 'listening for ignition timing knocks and adjusting the timing. Regards John

On the 4A-FE engine do the following:
Align the camshaft knock pin with the knock pin groove on the pulley side with the K mark, the slide on the timing pulley.
Align the camshaft knock pin with the knock pin groove of the pulley, and slide on the pulley.

Align the camshaft knock pin with the groove on the pulley side with the K mark-4A-FE engine
Temporarily install the timing pulley bolt. Hold the hexagonal wrench head portion of the camshaft with a wrench, and then tighten the timing pulley bolt to 43 ft. lbs. (59 Nm).
Install the crankshaft pulley. Align the pulley set key with the groove of the pulley. Slide on the timing pulley, facing the flange side inwards.





Guru..saailer

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

2S-ELC, 3S-FE and 5S-FE Engines

When install, align the crankshaft pulley set key with the pulley key groove. Install the pulley. Tighten the pulley bolt to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).

On 2S-ELC engines, turn the crankshaft pulley and align the 0 mark on the lower (No. 1) timing belt cover. Align the camshaft knock pin with the matchmarks on the oil seal retainer.

On 2S-ELC/USA engines, align the knock pin with the pin hole on the timing pulley E mark side. On 2S-ELC/Canadian engines, align the knock pin with the pin hole on the timing pulley.

On 3S-FE and 5S-FE engines, align the knock pin with the groove of the pulley, and slide the pulley onto the camshaft with the plate washer and set bolt.

First, I would like to mention that most knock sensor codes are not caused by the knock sensors, but a mechanical problem with the engine. The knock sensors cannot differentiate between noises caused by mechanical problems like a bad pulley bearing, bad motor mount, noisy alternator bearings, etc. and spark knock. knock sensor codes are set when the computer has retarded the timing as far as possible to compensate for ignition ping (Spark Knock) and the noise still exists.

With that said, here are the instructions.

Remove the Intake Chamber assembly.
Disconnect Injector connectors.
Disconnect the heater hose from the Intake Manifold.
Remove the 9 bolts. 2 nuts, 2 plate washers and Intake Manifold assembly.
Remove right hand engine mounting stay and water outlet.
Disconnect the following hoses and connectors:
Radiator inlet hose.
Engine coolant reservoir hose.
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor connector.
Engine Coolant Temperature Switch connector.
Ground strap connector.

Remove the 3 bolts and right hand mounting stay.
Remove the wire band.
Disconnect the water bypass hose from the inlet housing.
Remove the 2 bolts, 2 nuts, 2 plate washers and water outlet.
Remove the 2 gaskets.
Disconnect the Knock Sensor connectors.
Remove the Knock Sensors.

3.0L Engine

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions section.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Drain the engine coolant.
4. Remove or disconnect the following:
   Wiper and blade assembly Top cowl seal and panel Window washer hoses, from the ventilator louvers Left and right ventilator louvers Heater air duct Timing belt
5. Mark the left and right camshaft pulleys with a touch of paint.
6. Remove or disconnect the following:
   NOTE Be sure not to mix up the pulleys.
   Right and left camshaft pulleys bolts Pulleys from the engine
   No. 2 idler pulley by removing the bolt 3 clamps and engine wire from the rear timing belt cover 6 No. 3 timing belt cover-to-engine bolts Water pump nuts/bolts Water pump and gasket from the engine
   
   
   Fig. Exploded view of the components to gain access to the water pump-3.0L engine
   
   
   
   Fig. Exploded view of the water pump and related components-3.0L engine
   

To install:

1. Check that the water pump turns smoothly. Also check the air hole for coolant leakage.
2. Apply liquid sealer to the gasket, water pump and engine block.
3. Install or connect the following:
   NOTE After tightening the bolt, be sure the idler pulley moves smoothly.
   NOTE Be sure to align the knock pin hole on the camshaft pulley with the knock pin on the camshaft.
   NOTE Be sure to align the knock pin hole on the camshaft pulley with the knock pin on the camshaft.
   Water pump, using a new gasket. Tighten the nuts/bolts to 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm). Rear timing belt cover. Tighten the 6 bolts to 74 inch lbs. (9 Nm). Engine wire with the 3 clamps to the rear timing belt cover No. 2 idler pulley. Tighten the bolt to 32 ft. lbs. (43 Nm).
   Right-hand camshaft pulley, with the flange side outward.
   Tighten the camshaft bolt to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm), using the removal tools Left-hand camshaft pulley, with the flange side inward.
   Tighten the camshaft bolt to 94 ft. lbs. (125 Nm), using the removal tools Timing belt
   
4. Fill the engine coolant.
5. Install or connect the following:
   Heater air duct Left and right ventilator louvers Window washer hoses to the ventilator louvers Top cowl seal and panel Wiper and blade assembly Negative battery cable
6. Start the engine.
7. Top off the engine coolant and check for leaks.

Hope this help.

sounds like the water pump bearing is worn out and has detroyed the water pump shaft seal.
coolant is leaking thru the seal area ,due to the bearing worn out --hence throwing the water pump pulley out of alignment.
The water pump pulley runs of the timing belt.---hence the knocking --either from the pulley or belt chaffing against the timing cover or even throwing the engine timing a few degrees off.
Need to replace water pump and timeing belt and anything else that may be damaged.
That's why, when ever you do a timing belt always do the water pump too.

Variable Valve Timing