1999 bmw 528i replaced battery and alternator after a few hours driving asc,abs,and transmission light come on transmission stops pulling. If shut of and try to restart the battery is dead. if charge battery runs fine till few hours when battery is dead. alternator and battery test good.

The fact that the ABS is OK means that the wheel speed sensors are OK. The sensors are the part of the system that get the most abuse, so it is good to eliminate them as suspects.
On a 1999, I think that you have a mechanical (cable-driven) throttle rather than drive-by-wire throttle. If so, the ASC has its own throttle just outboard of the regular throttle. If you don't see it, follow the air tube up from the air filter to the intake manifold. The throttle(s) are attached to the center of the intake manifold at the end of that air tube..
If your ASC has its own throttle, that means that you have an actuator and a little throttle cable running from the actuator to the ASC throttle. Since that is a moving part, it is subject to wear, dirt, and corrosion that interfere with motion. That makes this system the second suspect after wheel sensors. Check that cable for fraying and a full range of motion as it pulls the lever on its throttle. Unplug the control wire to the actuator and make sure that the connections are clean and tight.
I recently had an ASC light that turned out to be a hose clamp that was installed improperly and was interfering with the motion of the throttle arm on the ASC throttle.

just like a computer...you shut if off and turn it on and everything is ok. It's the ABS/ASC control module btw.

Get BMW Scanner 1.4 cable and software for Windows and read the ABS module trouble codes. That will tell you what the ABS thinks is the problem.
https://www.amazon.com/iSaddle-Scanner-Programmer-Diagnostic-Windows/dp/B008RHJTS2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1515358744&sr=8-3&keywords=Bmw+scanner+1.4

It's pretty common for the ABS modules to need rebuilding. They have some tine bonding wires inside thwt break over time from vibrartion and heat. Should cost around $100, check ebay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-5-7-Series-Bosch-5-7-DSC-0265950006-ABS-Brake-Module-Repair-Service/232536849310?epid=13007981967&hash=item362446bb9e:g:9NAAAOSwUwFZ8K7O&vxp=mtr

low power, bmw ecu has some code that starts shutting down systems on low power. so poor charging from the alternator to the battery.

this could also be a wet ecu tracking false codes.
i don't have direct experience with a series 5 but also check your ecu condition.

the ecu compartment is under the windshield on the passenger side on E36

you gain acess to it under the hood....
this compartment gets wet, the ecu lays on a flat surface in that
compartment.

the bottom side of the circuit board gets wet and starts corrosion.

remove the ecu, take the bottom plate off, clean the bottom of the circuit
board with alcohol and a soft tooth brush.

you should be able to see the signs of corrosion or conductive build up.

this gunk bridges solder points doing all sort s of wierd things to your
car, including false sensor readings from asc/abs controllers and other
sensors....

all the way to engine failure and worst case burnt and shorted wiring
harness.

I'm on my 3rd ecu, took me and the repair boys a few years to figure this
one out.

BTW: i would get that ecu mounted above that flat surface, use some sort
of standoff to raise it so that it is not laying in the wet.

ABS/ASC module is faulty
CLASSIC ABS FAILURE SYMPTOMS:
- Most of the time, the problem is the ABS module or one of the 4 wheel speed sensors (& sometimes the brake pressure sensor)
- In my 2002 BMW E39 DSC, three orange (warning) cluster display lights lit, ABS, Brake, & DSC
- The 3 warning lights reset when the ignition is turned off, only to repeatedly reappear within minutes of normal driving
- The fault is often intermittent leading you to falsely believe you've resolved the problem (proper diagnosis is important)
- Sometimes the fault only appears when the engine is hot; other times only at speeds over 40 mph
- Carsoft may erroneously show a rear speed sensor failure; but just replacing the speed sensor may make no difference.
- All the work is in correct diagnosis of the problem; parts replacement is trivial (from 1 to six bolts in a few minutes)
- Hence, this BMW E39 ABS 3-warning light DIY will concentrate on understanding and diagnosis of the problem

Check to see if your brake pads and rotors are in good condition. Or if you have replaced the pads yourself and have not reset the wheel sensors this would cause the ABS Antilock Brake System light and the ASC Automatic Stability Control light to stay on as the ASC uses the ABS brakes with computer assistance to control the traction of the car if not fixed it can affect your rev limiter and slow performance

Check/replace all sensors .. ECU

Check to see if your brake pads and rotors are in good condition. Or if you have replaced the pads yourself and have not reset the wheel sensors this would cause the ABS Antilock Brake System light and the ASC Automatic Stability Control light to stay on as the ASC uses the ABS brakes with computer assistance to control the car

Check to see if your brake pads and rotors are in good condition. Or if you have replaced the pads yourself and have not reset the wheel sensors this would cause the ABS Antilock Brake System light and the ASC Automatic Stability Control light to stay on as the ASC uses the ABS brakes with computer assistance to control the car

right have a check down your local garage if they do diagnostics be about 15-30 pound well worth it tells you a hell of alot more then wht i can say here but on e46s any lil prob tht asc light wil come up its warning you cars not right beware in other words. ive had it on rear abs sensors the asc light is just warning but have them plug it in to diagnostics tht will tell you all about it and whts going on prob sensor somewere let me no how you get on..