Clutch slave cylinder removal... I took out the pin, but the hydraulic line is stuck in the old one and I cant get it out to replace the part...

1995 YJ if still stock all that is ONE PART, see FSM quote below.
is the fluid dropping, day by day, week by week???
y/n?
yes, then either the slave or mc are bad.
sometimes both can fail, (rust happens inside and is progressive)
what I do , is this. (if not wanting to change out both)
1: look at the MC, if it done leak down either side of the fire wall
it might be good (dont mean the piston seals good but its not leaking, so if fluid drops , (every week say) the the MC is ok
and for sure the slave leaks.

2: so where is your slave. have you looked,? (swaps happen)
most leak and can not be detected as that leak landed on the road to work.
for sure its just 2 parts, here, you know the clutch is ok.
because it works with fluid in the system and bled.
now ILL PASTE THE FSM words out of a real factory service manual.
they are clear.
FSM words, QUOTE:
CLUTCH HYDRAULIC LINKAGE REMOVAL
The clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder
and connecting line are serviced as an assembly
only. The linkage components cannot be
overhauled or serviced separately. The cylinders
and connecting line are sealed units. Also
note that removal/installation procedures for
right and left hand drive models are basically
the same. Only master cylinder location is different.
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Remove fasteners attaching slave cylinder to
clutch housing.
(3) Remove slave cylinder from clutch housing (Fig.
9).
(4) Disengage clutch fluid line from body clips.
(5) Lower vehicle.
(6) Verify that cap on clutch master cylinder reservoir
is tight. This is necessary to avoid undue spillage
during removal.
(7) Remove clutch master cylinder attaching nuts.
Note that one nut is accessible from engine compartment
and one nut is accessible from under instrument
panel (Figs. 10 and 11).
(8) Remove clip securing clutch master cylinder
push rod to pedal and slide push rod off pedal pin.
(9) Disconnect clutch pedal position switch wires.
(10) If pedal pin is equipped with bushing, inspect
condition of bushing and replace it if worn or damaged.
(11) Remove clutch hydraulic linkage through engine
compartment.

If you removed the pin and it still won't budge. Bite the bullet and replace it all. I replace all of it anyway. I don't like taking chances. Since your doing it yourself, your saving a load of shop rate money..Do it right.

try the website link I attached Best Manuals

You need to inspect the feed line if the return line is squezed or kinked in any place it will impede return and the cylinder will seem stuck. If the lines are servicable remove the cylinder and bench test and bleed. it might be a burr left in the cylinder. Also check travel of the pedal without the system in place. Finally When I replace one of these units I have to bleed it out of the vehicle with another person holding the slave cylinder because there is no bleed screw on the slave cylinder. If you removed the little brass screw you broke it. I find there is no way to get out all the air unless the slave cylinder is held verticle with consant pressure applied to the throw arm. Then when bled reinsert into vehicle.

I have the same old truck, I recently replaced the clutch slave cylinder because it was leaking. The fluid ran low and I could just barely get it into gear with the engine running and when letting out the clutch, it would engage too soon. Then I realized the fluid was low, so I replaced the slave cylinder. It was not very hard at all, just a little tricky. I had to remove a crossbeam that was in the way, that's it, and it was better to attach the hydraulic line before mounting the slave cylinder. Actually I don't think it would be possible to attach the line after mounting it. Mine has the removable plunger pin, so I mounted the cylinder, then was just able to squeeze in the pin between the plunger and clutch lever. I made sure to put enough Teflon tape on the hydraulic fitting. No leaks now, works good. Refilled the master cylinder with normal brake fluid and bled the line a little. I had to pump the clutch petal nearly 20 times for it to build up full pressure so it felt right again after bleeding. I would say it was an easy repair and I'm a computer tech not a mechanic.

In this car, there is no bleed port provided. The hydraulic clutch system is closed and is sold only as a complete set of master, reservoir, slave, and line. The set is priced at $130 at autozone.com. I have pasted the replacement instructions from autozone.com below. Please let me know if you have more questions.

See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4
The master cylinder, pipes and slave cylinder are a complete assembly and must be replaced as a single unit.

1. Block the clutch pedal to prevent it from being depressed while the slave cylinder is removed from the transaxle.
2. Remove the air cleaner/intake duct assembly.
3. Disconnect the negative battery cable first, then the positive cable.
4. Remove the battery hold-down retainer.
5. Remove the battery from the vehicle. Store the battery in a safe location, but do not place it on a concrete surface for any long period of time or it will discharge.
6. Remove the battery tray. Note that one battery tray mounting fastener is only accessible through the fender well.
7. Rotate the slave cylinder about 1 / 4 turn counterclockwise while pushing toward the bell housing, in order to disengage the connector and remove the cylinder from the clutch housing. Remove the slave cylinder bracket retaining nuts and pull the assembly from the studs.
8. If equipped with ABS, remove the brake master cylinder-to-power booster mounting nuts. Move the master cylinder off of the mounting studs and slightly toward the engine, being careful not to bend or kink the brake lines.
9. Remove the master cylinder pushrod retaining clip from the clutch pedal pin and disconnect the pushrod from the pedal.
10. Rotate the clutch cylinder about 1 / 8 turn clockwise and remove it from the instrument panel. Remove the hydraulic assembly from the vehicle.

To install:

1. Install the clutch master cylinder into the dashboard with the reservoir leaning toward the driver' fender. Rotate the cylinder about 1 / 8 turn counterclockwise to lock it in position.

When installing a new assembly, the plastic retainer straps should remain in place on the slave cylinder, to ensure that the actuator rod seats on the release fork pocket upon installation. If reinstalling an assembly, be sure to position a new plastic retainer strap onto the end of the pushrod and attach the straps to the cylinder.

1. If equipped with ABS, place the brake master cylinder into position on the power booster mounting studs. Install and tighten the master cylinder-to-power booster mounting nuts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
2. Slide the slave cylinder onto the clutch housing studs, then install the nuts and tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
3. Insert the slave cylinder into the clutch housing with the hydraulic line facing down and rotate about 1 / 4 turn clockwise while pushing it into the housing.
4. Lubricate the clutch pedal pin with silicone grease, then connect the pushrod to the clutch pedal and install the retaining clip.
5. Install the battery tray. Tighten the battery tray mounting fasteners to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
6. Place the battery into the battery tray. Be careful that the battery terminals do not short against any metal during the installation.
7. Install the battery hold-down retainer.
8. Connect the positive battery cable first, then the negative cable.
9. Install the air cleaner/intake duct assembly.
10. Remove the block from behind the clutch pedal and, if equipped, properly enable the SIR system.
11. Start the engine and check the pedal for proper operation.

Fig. Fig. 1: Block the clutch pedal to prevent slave cylinder damage, should the pedal be depressed while the cylinder is removed from the transaxle


Fig. Fig. 2: To remove, rotate the slave cylinder about 1/4 turn counterclockwise while pushing toward the bell housing


Fig. Fig. 3: This plastic retaining strap must remain on the slave cylinder to ensure proper seating of the actuator rod against the release fork

Fig. Fig. 4: Rotate the clutch master cylinder about 1/8 turn clockwise and remove it from the instrument panel

HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING The clutch hydraulic assembly has been filled with fluid and bled of air at the factory. Do not attempt to bleed the hydraulic system. While the unit does not require periodic checking, it must be serviced, when necessary, as a complete assembly. The system is full when the reservoir is half full.
Only DOT 3 brake fluid should be added to the system. If the fluid level drops, inspect the system, including the slave cylinder, for leakage. A slight wetting of the slave cylinder surface is normal. Fill the clutch master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on the painted surface of the vehicle.

i dont think you are supposed to remove it. they come with a hose master and slave cyl all put together.
i did get one aprt once and i think there was a roll pin i pulled out to do it

you may have a faulty clutch master cylinder or faulty clutch slave cylinder- leaking clutch fluid. most of the time both are replaced at the same time which should be recomended by your mechanic, the bolts to the master cylinder are very hard to get to and require the right tool.
you should be able to move car forward by selecting 1st then cranking engine till it starts, gear changes while driving are hard but not impossible. i recommend a tow truck to a local repairer.

Sounds like air has gotten into the hydraulic clutch system, or it is low on fluid from a failed master or slave hydraulic clutch cylinder or connecting line between the master and slave cylinders.