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all disc brakes work in a similar way. there are hold down bolts for the calipers which is what pads mount in. there is usually a keeper system that wont allow the pads to just fall out and usually cant be removed until you release the caliper. the hold down bolts may be bolt heads, allen heads or a larger star bit head. once the pads are removed you need to check the fex hoses condition and the rotors condition before you just slap a pair of new pads on. if the car had a slowregular wobble feel as you applied the brakes the rotors are likely warped from heat and need to be replaced or turned if the y are the type that can be turned. the caliper piston need to carefully be pushed back into the caliper. you need to watch your brake fluid resivoir while you do this as the fluid level will come up a little as you compress the cylinder back into the caliper. if you do all four disc brakes it can rarely even overflow depending on if you have added brake fluid lately. dont leave the cover for the brake resivoir off or the cap to the brake fluid off as brake fluid will draw moisure from the air quickly an affect the performance of the fluid if it gets too much water in it.
the best tool to sue to get the pistons back in can be purchased from your parts store for under 20 dollars and evenly and slowly compresses the piston back in. if you dont have one or choose not to buy one a mid size c clamp works well to. the main thing is not to get the caliper piston stuck by pushing it back in unevenly. this can require you to replace the caliper which would then require the brakes be bleed etc.
once back the brakes shoes can be put in place making sure you have the inner and outer shoes oriented correctly. some cars the pads are the same and in some they are different. there is a great little product called disc brake quiet that you smear on the bake of the new pads which prevents them from rattling or making any noise.
if all else checks out you now put the pad keepers back in which can sometimes be a challenge if your new at it then re mount the caliper on the car.check the brake fluid level and the operation of the brakes before you put the wheel back on then take a safe test drive. if done correcrly the brakes should feel smoother than they did and stop evenly without making any noise.
this is just a primer on disc brake replacement and requires skill and expertise and observation of other parts as you perform this. mechanics do this automatically since they may do 5-10 brake jobs a day so this advice is for informational use only and does not mean you are skilled enough to do this safely but this is the the basics on how to do it. good luck.
For a wrench or for the acctual bolt size.
To remove front pads..you need 8mm allen socket to pull the caliper guide pins, then 17 or 18mm..To remove rear pads...you need 13mm socket for lock bolt on guide pins and 15mm open end wrench (thin section to hold guide pin while you remove lock bolts..I ground down a spare wrench). You DO NOT have to remove rear carriers to change rotors..just remove lock screw and angle rotor out. The B5 Passats don't have the electronic parking brake so you don't need VAG Com to change pads. Installation tips: Clean and regrease the guide pins with "synthetic caliper grease" Rear lock bolts come with preapplied thread locker and "are not to be reused"..I just wire brush the threads and use some Loctite Blue on em. I smear just a little antisieze on the inside bore of the rotors and on the lock screw threads to prevent corrosion and make next rotor change ez. Torques: Front caliper guide pins:18 ft lb Front carrier bolts: 89 ft lb Rear guide pin lock bolts:26 ft lb Wheel lugs: 89 ft lb
To remove the caliper, you need a torx head tool (can't remember exact size) to remove the two slide pin bolts.(inside the two small rubber boots at each end of caliper) After getting them loose, remove the brake hose, then remove bolts and caliper. (don't loose the two copper washers...if they aren't in the new caliper box you will need them.) Check and see if the caliper retracts easily after it is removed. If it does, the rubber brake hose may have internally failed and is your problem. If piston is very hard to move, get a new caliper. Replace both side brake pads, not just side you are workingon. (recommend both calipers as well but most times it works fine with one. When replacing, make sure slides are free in calipers and thread pins by hand so that you don't cross thread them. After it's back together bleed front brakes and before moving car step on brake to re-set pistons.
It is an odd size, I believe 9mm thread and Heli-coil makes a kit just for this job. I know because I have the kit at work! Try another Autozone or ask to speak to the manager and have him look it up, it does exist for sure. This is actually a pretty common problem. If you're still stuck tomorrow and I will dig up the part number and post it.
Remove wheel & tire,
remove 2 torx bolts that go from the inside to the outside of the vehicle. They are on the inner side of the brake caliper.
lift the caliper out of the rotor.
remove the brake pads.
To install, you must first squeeze the caliper piston back inot its bore. Do this slowly to prevent damage to the piston. You are forcing excess brake fluid back into the master cylinder reservoir. Slow constant pressure will get the job done. Use a large c clamp or a wooden hammer handel if that's all you have.
Fit the new brake pads in the calipers and slide the assembly back over the rotor.
install the 2 torx bolts, size 40? head I think.
You are done.
If rotors are scored bad, replace them too.
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