I have a mastercraft multimeter, it reads volts but wont read milliamps. Checked the fuse, it's good. what else could be the problem? There is only one fuse on the inside, does it protect both volt and milliamps? Many others have a separate fuse for each.

if the charge light is going out after starting then it is charging. Next step is to use a multimeter that has the ability to read volts DC and volts AC. If it shows Volts dc 13.5 to 14.5 volts at around 2.000rpms then it is good . If it shows volts ac then the rectifier in the alternator is not working and needs replacing . Next place an amp meter in the line to the battery and read the amperage .It will read in a ratio to the volts DC so if the volts Dc is up around 14.5 then the current flow will be low but if it reads 12 volts then the current will be high. If the volts dc is over 14.5 volts say 16 volts then the current will be high as the regulator is not controlling the current out put. If this sound daunting then go to an accredited auto electrical shop and have it checked out

Make sure battery has a full charge. With everything off, use digital multimeter leads across battery posts, the generic spec is around 12.6 volts. Leave the leads hooked up, have helper turn key to crank, what is the reading? If the circuit is closed to the starter, shouldn't drop below 9.6 volts, some makes and models, it shouldn't drop below 10 volts. You get the picture, if drops way low, that won't work.
I'd have to check generator output and battery.

1. Follow these steps.
   Remove the negative side battery cable from the negative battery terminal.
2. Connect the black wire to the com input on the multimeter and the red wire to the 10A or 20A input on the multimeter. the meter needs to be able to read at least a 2 or 3 amps for this test to work. Connecting the red wire to the mA input on the multimeter won't work and could damage the meter.
3. Attach a multimeter(set the dial on the multimeter to measure Amps as per multimeters instructions) between the negative cable and the negative battery post. Wait a few seconds to several minutes for the car to go into sleep mode - i.e. when you make the contact with the ammeter, the cars computer systems "wake up". After a bit of time they will go back to "sleep".
4. If the ammeter is reading over 25-50 milliamps, something is using too much battery power.
5. Go to the fuse panel(s) and remove fuses, one at a time. Pull the main fuses (higher amp ratings)last. Perform the same steps for relays found in the fuse panel. Sometimes relay contacts can fail to release causing a drain. Be sure to observe the ammeter after pulling each fuse or relay.
6. Watch for the ammeter to drop to acceptable drain. The fuse that reduces the drain is the draw. Consult the owners' manual or service manual to find what circuits are on that fuse.
7. Check each device (circuit) on that fuse. Stop each lamp, heater, etc. to find the drain.
8. Repeat steps 1&2 to test your repair. The ammeter will tell you exact numbers.
9. You can also try unhooking the big wire from your alternator. The alternator can sometimes have a shorted diode that can cause amps to flow through the alternator's power cable and through the shorted diode and into the case and through the bolts and back to the negative battery terminal. This will drain a battery in a hurry.Make sure to read the ammeter before and after unplugging your Alternator

A voltmeter is NOT the correct tool to check for an "ignition-off draw". A voltmeter will show 12 volts if ANYTHING is operating.

There are some things that are SUPPOSED to keep operating when the vehicle is shut off. These include, but are not limited to:
> Powertrain Control Module keep-alive memory
> Radio preset memory
> Clock
> Security/ alarm system
> Remote control recievers (door locks, etc.)

What you need to know is how many AMPS are being drawn from the battery when the vehicle is shut off. This is done by using a shunt bar connected between the battery terminal and the battery cable connector.

Set the ammeter to the lowest setting (usually 2 or 5 amp scale) Connect the ammeter leads accross the shunt bar. Turn off all electrical accessories, ignition switch, etc. and wait for a minimum of 45 minutes for all of the computer systems to go into "sleep" mode. Then open the shunt bar and read the amperage.

The "rule of thumb" is 300 milliamps (or 0.3 amps). This is where you have a problem. Anything less than this is not a problem and is not the cause of your dead battery. My experience is that most vehicles built in the last 15 years or so, will usually measure around 150 milliamps if there is no aftermarket equipment installed. Please note that even this 150 milliamps will measure as 12 volts if measured with a volt meter. A 2 amp draw will also measure as 12 volts....However, a 2 amp draw will kill your battery overnight and the 150 milliamp draw won't.

How did you test the alternator? If you tested it by using a multimeter on the batteries while the jumper cables where still connected, then you were probably reading the alternator put out of the other vehicle if it was running as well. Or you read the combined volts of the batteries. Usually if a vehicle dies after removing the jumper cables then it is the alternator. I would use a multimeter to test the alternator while the explorer is running. It should be reading about 14 volts. The other possiblity could be the battery. You can voltage all day long, but if you dont have the required cold cranking amps then the truck wont start. You can take the battery and or the alternator into the autoparts store and get them tested for free.

If you have some electrical know how you can try to trace the draw yourself. You will need a multimeter capable of measuring amps.

First dis-connect the negative terminal, and make sure your dome light and everything else is turned off.

Next connect the multimeter in between the terminal and battery connection basically completing the circuit, and make sure the meter is set to amperage.

You should get a reading somewhere around 14-25 milliamps depending on how old or new the vehicle is. If you have a reading of say 200 milliamps then you have a draw somewhere.

Now once you get a clear level reading start by removing individual fuses and seeing if the reading goes down. Once you find the fuse that drops the reading down to an acceptable level you found the circuit that has the problem.

At this point you would have to trace individual parts of the circuit to find the specific draw which requires a fair bit of know how, and should be done by someone with this knowledge.

I do not think you have a short circuit because it would blow a fuse or burn the insulation off the wire and smoke a lot. Therefore, if the battery is being drained it could be a component pulling too much current when the vehicle is off. I have seen when the ignition is switched off the accessory power is in the on position, which will drain the battery. I find it strange that if you jiggle your cable the vehicle may start. This makes me think it could be a lose ground connection. You will have some components with constant power and if the positive or ground connection is loose or bad it will pull more current from your battery. So check connections to the block chassis and fuse bus first. If you obtain a multimeter (Volt-Ohm-Amp) and set it to amps to read current you can narrow the possible cause. Understand the meter may only read a maximum of 500 milliamps .5 amps or 10 amps so make sure the engine off so you do not max out your meter. Disconnect one end of your battery (Pos or Neg) and set your meter on amps and make sure you have your meter probes plugged in correctly to read amps. Connect one end of the meter probe to the battery cable and the other to the battery. You should see a reading on your meter. If you take a jumper cable and connect it to the vehicle chassis and the other end to the multimeter and the other multimeter probe to the negative terminal of the battery the current reading should be the same. If the reading is less then your ground connection on your vehicle is bad. Open the fuse box and randomly pull a relay and note the amperage reading on your meter. If you see the current drop note the relay and current reading on a piece of paper then replace the relay. If the current did not drop put a piece of masking tape on it to mark it as being tested. Now start pulling and replacing fuses again looking at the current reading for any changes noting the change on paper. Do the same for the fuse box and relays inside the vehicle. You can now see which components are pulling current when your vehicle is off which should help you find your problem.

You have a draw! First, get a digital multi-meter. Next, shut the ignition and all systems to the off position. Next, disconnect the negative battery terminal. Using the "amp" feature of your multimeter hook a pair of aligator clips to the negative battery terminal first, then to the negative battery cable in the car. You should immediately begin to read "amperage". If you are reading a minute (say around 7 to 10 mili-amps), there is no issue. If you are reading in the .1 "amps" or range (even a little below that), you have a signifigant draw. If you're pulling about .1 amps or higher, start unplugging fuses untill the draw goes away. You have found the system pulling the draw! Diagnose from there! the Stick

Have you tried to jump start it? Have the battery checked. If it's o.k replace the starter.