Where is the micro switch

check and test motor--hydro pressure

First, check both tail light bulbs. Maybe both of them are burned out. (I'm not being insulting; I've seen some pretty smart people miss that and spend a lot of time looking for other problems.)

Next, look for a broken or corroded tail light wire. The problem would most likely be before the wire is branched to the two tail lights, assuming the one tail light (probably the right side) is not powered by a wire running from the other. That may involve crawling under the truck or lifting the carpet in the cab. Also check the connection to the light switch. It's also possible for the switch to have a bad tail light contact, if it uses a separate contact for the headlights. Are the park lights on the front working?

Your problem could very well be a brake switch sensor that's why they stopped working whenever you press the brakes the little plastic sensor button supposed to press down and allow the voltage to reach the tail lights to allow normal operation

SHOULD BE 2 DIFFERENT FUSES
IP LAMPS AND TAIL LAMPS
CHECK RESISTOR SWITCH IS IT ALL THE WAY DOWN FOR IP LAMPS?

I've had something like this happen a couple of times.

The cure in both instances (and probably will be in yours) is the 'recalibration' of the window lift system.

It IS in the user handbook, but here is the procedure anyway.


1 Ensure the tail door is closed, the vehicle unlocked and the alarm disarmed.
2 On 3 door models, ensure the roof is on (hard back) or lowered and secured (soft back).
3 With the ignition on, use the console switch, or the vehicle key in the tail door lock, to raise the window until the
motor stalls with the window fully closed.

(the holding the switch on until the motor 'stalls' is the key thing - you MUST allow the motor to stall)

4 Switch off the ignition.

If the calibration procedure is unsuccessful, the CCU will sound a warning for approximately 0.8 second and fully lower
the window.
Tail door window calibration can fail for the following reasons:
l Window stops before minimum travel is achieved.
l Window does not achieve a stall.
l Window request removed before stall is achieved.
l Tail door opened while driving window up.

check for power at the wires going intop the tail lights, real common that the circuit board is bad, but unlikely both at the same time. The tag, tail lights and brakes are 2 different systems. Do the turn signals work normally? if so the wiring from the turn signal switch to the brake lights is GOOD. the stop light switch had\s a ORANGE wire that should have 12V if not ck STOP LPS fuse, when brake pedal is depressed, the WHITE wire is 12V (at the stop light switch) if that is OK, the turn signal switch COULD be bad. The wiring harness plug is near the back left under the tailgate, see if that is disconnected?

having same problem. narrowed it down to brake light switch. going down road and cruise wont set, messed with brake pedal and it will arm have even put foot under pedal and lifted a little and it would arm. have a switch coming to replace.

Turn ignition on, make the sunroof go up and all the way down, turn off ignition and press the sunroof button to go down. Then unclip the 2 front hooks and push up.

Could be your turn signal switch!
The brake lights in this run through the turn signal switches!

The tools are under the second row seats. The hole for the spare tire lowering mech. is above the rear bumper when you lift the tail gate. Put the proper tool down the hole, turn counter clockwise, lowers spare. Reverse to bring up.