Hi Jackie, 2010/2011 has drum brakes on the rear?
First up, check the rear brake shoes don't kneed adjusting, if you just adjust the handbrake, you end up with a handbrake thats not very good at holding you on a hill
Testimonial: "Richard the breaks on the rear of my cleo are disks,if I remove the rear wheels is there an adjustment on the linkage at the rear callapor"
Hi cable adjustment is at the handbrake end, inside the car. and morganismo this is a CLEO not an MR2, and want to adjust handbrake and not fit new discs
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SOURCE: hand break
The last comment is a but wrong. Let me explain why:
The pistions on the rear is ALL MR2s are not the push in type...You need a special tool to screw them in... You can rent the tool for free at your local AutoZone but they charge like a $55 dollar core charge...once you bring it back they refund your money. TRUST ME if you are gonna try this route you want that tool!!! I did a full brake and rotor job on my MR2 3 weeks ago and without that tool I would still be working on them ; )
Back to the brakes though...are you sure they ever really worked properly? The MR2s are notorious about "brake cable freeze" this is where the cable becomes locked in place and feels like its putting pressure on the pads when you engage it, but it really isn't. This happened to me last winter (and it seems to happen most often in the winter) but I haven't fixed it yet. I pulled up so hard on the lever that i snapped the cable in half when I tried to keep the MR2 from rolling.
You may need new cables. If you have someone apply the hand brake for you and you are watching from both sides of te rear of the car (with the wheels off) you should see where the cables attach to the back of the calipers on each side of the car. When it is being engaged you should see the cable pull on the lever on the back of each caliper. If this doesn't happen, then you are the victim of "brake freeze" and if it matters that much to you then you will need to have the bad cable or cables replaced.
Hope this helps! Good Luck!
SOURCE: hand break does not release
Big problem sounds like car has been left with handbrake on for a long period and not used,now they are stuck which is caused by damp corroding the drum which sticks the shoes to the drum.Old trick ------ release handbrake and try going backwards,shoes have a leading edge and lock into drum increasing braking efficiency for foreward motion but dont worry about the technicals just try it.If it still doesnt work call a mobile mechanic,What a tool though,i have a sovereign XJ6 4 litre and what a set of wheels i slow down at 200kms as anything over is now a automatic jail sentance here in spain ,but had some great burn offs with porches and mercs on the motorway with this car,but i couldnt outrun a helicopter though .
SOURCE: Hand break adjustment
take the moulding off around the hand brake there will be two wire cables going into one via an adaptor simply tighten the adjusting nuts on the one cable hope this helps regards Jim
SOURCE: 2006 chev malibu fuses where are they
theres a fuse box under the rear driver side tail light, open the trunk theres a small space to for storage, look underneath it u'll see a "door" open then look for a black box. it flips down, it has ur basic fuse, tail lights, **** like that, all other major ones like horn are under the hood between the driver fender and the battery
SOURCE: how to tighten uo the hand break cable on my bmw
You'll need to remove the center console that is over the hand brake. (screws and clips will most likely be hidden)
Once the console is off, you should be able to see two cables connecting to the base of the lever (one cable on the left of the lever and one to the right as these control the ebrake on their side of the car respectively.
Loosen the nut and you can shimmy the cable to tighten it.
Don't do it too tight or your ebrake may be engaged even though the lever is all the way down.
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