I have a no start when key on no check eng. lite on dash no fuel pump noise.when cranked no fuel no spark.hooked scan to diagnostic port cant read connect eror. replace fuel pump fuelpump relay ignition switch wire part crank sensor check all fuses thinking computer

THE PUMP NEEDS 12VDC (11V MIN) CRANKING
USING A VOLTMETER.
IF THAT IS GOOD
AND FPR IS NOT BAD AND JAMMED FULLY OPEN AND BYPASSING ALL FUEL TO THE RETURN LINE
BUT YOU SAID BOTH LINES ARE DEAD FLOW.
SO PUMP IS DEAD.
IS THE IMMO LAMP GLOWING? FOR BAD KEY AND NOT PUMP IS DEAD.
I've pulled off the top lines, CAN I ASSUME THESE 2 LINES ARE FUEL LINES
FROM TANK AND BACK TO THE TANK
IF THOSE ARE DEAD THE PUMP IS DEAD !!
JUST BE CAUSED A PUMP MAKES NOISE PROVES ZERO.
EVER DISMANTLED A PUMP AND SEE THE IMPELLER IS A WRECK?
SOUND MEANS ZERO!THERE.SORRY, TECH IS TECH.

WHAT MATTERS ONLY IS
12VDC TO THE PUMP ACTUAL CRANKING (PRIME PULSES BE DANGED)
AND PSI AT THE RAIL TEST PORT schrader
0 PSI BAD
15 BAD
30 PAR.
CRANKING (AS IN A DEAD ENGINE)

YES FPR HAVE 3 MODES
GOOD
BAD AND STUCK CLOSED
OR BAD AND STUCK OPEN, BYPASSING ALL FUEL BACK TO TANK RETURN
MY GUESS IS FPR IS OK. BASED ONLY ON YOUR WORDS, IN ITALICS.

ALL FUSES GOOD, skip none.
SCAN THE PCM FOR ERROR. EVEN SRS IMPACT SENSOR ERRORS.
IMMO ERRORS, cuts fuel it does;. 1 or 2ways, varies by car. how.
ALL CARS CUT FUEL IF PCM DETECTS SPARK BAD, AND DOES SO MOSTLY AT THE INJECTORS.
Learn to use a volt meter
and pSI fuel pressure gauge
and scan the PCM, after it fails to start.
crank, for 5 seconds, key released and scan the PCM. and behold errors.
if lucky. DTC errors, (diagnostic trouble codes)

spark good on all cylinders not just 1. we test them all.
or egg in fact happens./ or bark up wrong trees.

have you checked the ignition coil?
Did you also replace the spark plug wires?
Have you checked for any trouble codes?

Does it have an alarm and immobilizer? If so, it needs resetting.

Check for fuel pressure / sound of pump going with key in the "on" position as it primes the fuel system. There should be a schrader valve on the end of the fuel rail, it's got a plastic cap on it - uncap it and depress the valve carefully ; if you have good fuel pressure it should be pressurized and come out fast. If not, bad fuel pump or fuel pump relay.

Your car has fuel injectors, require hi pressure to operate, you need a way to ck pressure. When you turn key on, can you hear pump whirring ? if not, it could be pump or relay.key must not go to start, just where lites com on in dash...listen near tank filler to hear, you may need help. relay is usually in fuse box in eng compartment. read legend in lid to tell which relay it is. good luck.

1.6L or 1.8L vastly different engines... and EFI.
fuel to the rail , only means the pump is active , never good.
28PSI is minimum on all cars. 1psi will never start a car. ever
and the rail will shoot fuel, all day. it fruitless , unless the rail is dead.
see?
First the laws of EFI. (works all gas EFI)

1. all fuses good.
2. 12vdc to EFI system , below 10v is bad. (see lamps dim? bingo)
3. The PCM (EFI brain) will never inject if it sees CMP/CKP or spark primary dead. ever. so, spark is first.

that is double reasons, fuel cant burn if no spark and if ECU
thinks spark is bad it cuts fuel, (fire safety and fuel hydralocking reasons)

so you connect any scan tool to the DLC, OBD2 port , by knees.
and crank for 5 seconds, release key, no turn off
see DTCs (errors) for CMP, or CKP sensors (cam/crank?)
bingo
no, then you crank and look at the RPM PID , live data stream the scan tool, see RPM go to 250rpm cranking, good.
ok , PCM thinks all is good....

i then check the #1 injector with a NOID lamp
i crank it flashes, good.
if not , i do all injectors , if one fails the pcm is dead on this line.
if yes, all dont flash the PCM is seeing some gross errors. ask. why./?
if all flash, then the fuel rail is dead. and your rail test was useless.

until you discloses engine option (size) I cant give spec numbers.
i then connect my fuel pressure gauge $20 tool to the fuel rail test
port, and i get 10psi, FAIL
i check voltage to the fuel pump cranking, i get 8v, bingo bad wiring
or bad fuel pump relay.
say 10psi and 12v at pump cranking,
the pump is bad, or the filter clogged , or the fuel pressure regulator
is stuck wide open killing all legit pressure.

that is how i do it.
keep in mind the PCM cant see fuel pressure on most cars.
some newer cars have this sensors. (nice)
low fuel pressure,. renders the whole EFI , useless. just junk.

confusing, 1990 , CADDY a TOYOTA Escalade?
CHECK ALL FUSES in BOTH FUSE BOXES. first.

all cars have huge options, and one harness.
so vast numbers of connectors are just there. ignore them.
seems... seems in science is no good, we work in absolutes.
or better valid ranges. (as a pilot says, "in the envelope")
ill try to answer both cars, the relic toy and 2000 CAD


we fix cars by diagnosis.
the first is to tell the helper what is wrong.
it dont start. (right?
and you check both fuse boxes, for blown fuses, right?
do you have spark? y/n? on all spark plugs.? y/n
if you have spark does spray in test fuel start engine
even for 3 seconds>? a key test.
yes, then you have low fuel pressure.
no, bad engine. (or you lied about spark , lol)

now fuel pressure.
the ECU can cut fuel and pump if it sees spark go bad
this prevents crash and burn,.like as seen on TV.
connect a scan tool is there DTC 340,355 being thrown cranking 5 seconds. yes, bad crank/cam sensors. or RPM is 0 cranking
bad ckp. senor.

so, rule 2, the ECU, many not, (READ FSM) run pump
until it is cranking
so you check for 12vdc at the pump cranking,
ok i got 12v
i then check fuel pressure with a real gauge.
it see 0psi, bad pump. see 10 psi bad pump or stuck open fuel
40PSI normal there is a range, but ask.
pressure reg. see 65PSI, fuel pressure reg stuck closes or return line blocked.
no guessing ,simple tests tools $80 total.

so does test fuel run engine> do that.
ever do a tune up?
ever check spark plug tips for wet or dry , after a failed crankup?
dry, no fuel. add some.
wet ,flooding.. crank using super secret WOT.


ok a direct quote from the FSM TOY.

1. Using a jumper wire, short terminals FP and +B of the check connector.<< this is the diagnostic port.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON, but do NOT start the car.
3. The fuel pressure should read 38-44 psi (265-304 kPa).
4. If the pressure is too high, the pressure regulator is probably defective. If it is too low, check for the following:
   1. Fuel hoses and connections for leaks or restrictions.
   2. Defective fuel pump.
   3. Clogged fuel filter.
   4. Defective pressure regulator.

now the direct quote for CAD FSM.
what engine,there are many?
rule 1 , 2000
ever scan the ECU/PCM for error cranking or must we do this the hardway.
hard:
key off
pressure gauge on rule rail
not started engine.
60-66 psi is normal. (books shows scan too activate)

the FSM shows the leak down test too, at this port.
it also says using CAD scan tool command on the fuel pump.
says tool only allows 2 seconds run time,
but you can check it cranking or cranking then key
off see how fast 60psi drops.
there are many pump tests. and the leak down rate
and injector leak down test.
all this requires a fuel pressure gauge
and reading the tests on alldata.com or buy the full FSM from CAD.

Im sure the CAD only has pump power (12v) cranking and running
and running it drops about 10psi and rises at high altitude.
they wouldn't need

PUMP operation rules are complex.
this is all hard coded in the PCM brain this logic.
most cars are,
if sparks good, and not W.O.T cranking and cmp and CKP are
happen run pump and inject.
if not , cut fuel.
some cars cut the pump after 2 seconds running, its hard coded logic. if spark is bad.
many mech dont know this. but the only variace ive ever seen is
some cars do make fuel pressure. just key on, for 3 seconds.
mostly older cars.
my guess you posted in the Toyota section?

check ignition fuse and relay than test battery if bad replace

well if spark quits fuel usaly will to computer will do this to stop cadilac converter from filling with fuel!and causeing a fire saftey feature!!!!okay disconect battery wait a couple of minutes reconect! turn key on postion do not start or crank!off then on until you hear a GRRRRunt that is your fuel pump that is what you should hear turn your head to the right towards back seet and once you hear it that means pump is good then crank it then spark should quit if the coil packs a r bad then you have your problem if so test for spark also if you have eng light on cut the case hook up obd 2 scan find the fault and fix THIS IS WHAT I WOULD DO CHEERS!

if you havn't replaced the fuel pump yet that should do the problem