I would say that you have a short in the ignition system somewhere.
Testimonial: "I have changed the starter solenoid and the solenoid relay, and nothing changed."
SOURCE: truck starts but will not idle
IT COULD POSSIBLY BE THE INTAKE GASKETS. FORD HAS A PROBLEM WITH THE GASKETS GOING BAD. IF THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS ON AND GIVING YOU CODES PO171 AND PO174 I WOULD CHECK THE GASKETS BY SPRAYING CARB. CLEANER AROUND THE INTAKE WHILE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING. IF THE IDLE SPEEDS UP THEN THAT IS YOUR PROBLEM.
SOURCE: 2000 F250 super duty v10
check the vaccum hoses on the passenger side under hood. I think that there are two hoses but it might be three. they get brittle and leak. but they move a little valve that you can move yourself just to see if heat works then. it is inline with the heater hoses I think. Bear with me though because it has been about 3-4 years ago when I figured this one out. it is definately a vaccum problem. there is also a set of vaccum hoses under passenger side of dash, several colors in it. might want to look there because sometimes kicked by peoples feet but money is on the ones inline with heater core. just move linkage and see if it gets hot air. Hope I helped and didnt confuse.
SOURCE: 99 dodge neon # 10 fuse ing feed 15 amp blows out
There's a short in the circut. Check continuity of the wires that feed from that fuse (you'll need a wiring diagram to identify each wire). You've got something that is causing too much amperage to move through the circut and the fuse blows. Make sure the amperage on the fuse is correct for the application (your owner's manual or fuse box diagram should tell you what amperage rating to install in each fuse slot).
SOURCE: blows fuses
SOUNDS LIKE THE ALARM HORN IS SHORTED, CAUSING FUSE TO BLOW.
TRY UNPLUGGING ALARM HORN & SEE IF FUSE STILL BLOWS.
IF IT DOES NOT BLOW, REPLACE ALARM HORN.
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