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Butch Freeman Posted on Nov 13, 2014
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Bad thermostat? Heater gets warm, but cools down as thermostat fluxuates between 180 and about 230. It goes back and forth when it is @180 heater blows warm air, but when it goes to 230 etc. the air b

Do I need to change thermostat and about how much does it cost for the labor and the new thermostat

1 Answer

Stephen

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  • Cars & Trucks Master 21,873 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 14, 2014
 Stephen
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Are you sure there are no air pockets in the cooling system ?
You should have heat anytime the engine temp is above 140 degrees regardless what the thermostat is doing.

  • Butch Freeman Nov 14, 2014

    A very simple problem for an old was fixed with very little cost. The coolant in radiator and the overflow was very low. A very simple problem that was over looked. Filled them and heater works fine. Can't believe I over looked checking the coolant.

  •  Stephen
    Stephen Nov 14, 2014

    Good to hear. I will say you should check the system for leaks since you should not need to add coolant under normal conditions.

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5 Related Answers

happy_38

  • 10 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 01, 2009

SOURCE: 2000 Lincoln Ls Heater blowing cool air

You also could have air in your coolant system. You can't just add coolant on these models after you drain the system or let it run low on coolant. The degas bottles on these models also have a flaw, where they crack along a seam. Sometimes coolant will leak, sometimes not, depending on how high the crack is on the bottle. But what it is guaranteed to do is allow air into your system, which can cause havoc with overheating (air surrounds the thermostat so it doesn't open) and keep coolant from flowing, particularly through the highest point in the system: the heater core. There is a heater core bleeder valve attached to a line near the top of the degas bottle (next to the expension line up top) with a plastic, flathead srewdriver face. Turn the heat on high and run the system at idle for 5 minutes. Then open the valve and keep it open until a steady stream of coolant comes out. (It's like bleeding your brakes.) That will clear any air from the system and at least give you peace of mind that this is not your problem. Then run the motor at 2000 rpms, with the heat still on high, for about 5 minutes or until hot air starts coming out. Release the bleeder valve again until a steady stream comes out. Then let the system cool and check your coolant level and fill as needed. I'd pull the degas bottle and inspect it...should have been a recall.

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J Brown

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Dec 17, 2008

SOURCE: Heater blows cool air & never heats up.

I changed the thermostat. It works like a charm now!!

Anonymous

  • 1489 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 28, 2009

SOURCE: heater doesn't blow warm air. Not the thermostat

Sounds like either the valve which lets water into the heater core is not working properly or the vacuum operated door which directs blower motor air over the heater core is not opening, Could be a vacuum hose loose or it has a hole in it.

If you want to further discuss, let me know,

Anonymous

  • 5158 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 22, 2009

SOURCE: 2000 Xterra intermentantly overheats

sounds more like the thermostat may be failing. generally a water pump starts leaking out of the "weep" hole in the casting before it quits. just look at the front of the water pump for a greenish streak or an obvious leak.
if you also suspect you heater core may be getting plugged now would be a good time to back flush it to get rid of some of the gunk.

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Nov 05, 2009

SOURCE: Heater not working, had thermostat replaced no

My 87 Celica had the same problem and it was the solder connections on the back of the heater control panel.

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Toyota Corolla 1987 heater not working when I turn on heater fan on it's warm for about 30 sec then goes cold and the guage goes to cold and stays there

Most of the times the heater core gets clogged or corroded. inside the fire wall and the hoses run through the engine compartment and into the firewall. You can try disconnecting the top and bottom hoses and using a garden hose to flush out debris. Flush through top hole first then bottom cycle back and forth to break everything up and water comes out clear. Then hook the hoses back up. Also make sure that your radiator l with coolant at the proper level. The heat typically coming out warm then blowing cold is low coolant or clogged heater core but the gauge on the dash should only symbolize engine temp. If it stays on cold, you may also want to check your thermostat to ensure it functions and opens and closes as it should. All cheap fixes that can be done yourself.
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1. Engine Coolant Temperature.
If the thermostat in the cooling system is getting stuck in the open or partially open position rather than opening and closing as needed to keep the coolant at the required operating temperature then you will get the results you have described here with the coolant temp dropping as you drive. The radiator is providing optimum cooling when the car is moving and there is plenty of cold air flow through it.
I am assuming the temp gauge in the vehicle is reading correctly.

Thermostats in the cooling system do become faulty in time and it may well never have been changed (or only changed once) since the car was built and is possibly gummed up with debris. With those symptoms I would definitely change the thermostat. Make sure a full flush of the cooling system is done at the same time and refilled with fresh coolant.

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I would not worry about the interior heating until you change the thermostat on the cooling system. However if you continue to get cold air from the heater then there will be an issue with hot coolant from the cooling system being restricted in flowing through the heater core.
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