After replacing the front brake pads and rotors on my 2001 mustang the calipers are not releasing enough , you can hardly turn the front wheels by hand and the brakes are running hot . How do I get th

The front brakes calipers do not adjust. If they are locking down all the way,and will not release the brake caliper hoses are at fault,replace them. If they are not moving in to brake the wheel then bleed the master cylinder and then the brake calipers.

probably none of the above
have the brake master cylinder replaced first
then work on the pins that allow the calliper body to self center
probably seized on the pins holding one pad on the rotor

First you want to remove brake fluid from brake resovoir, raise front wheels off ground and set park brake or block rear wheels. Remove front wheels, keep steering wheel unlocked so you can turn rotors side to side. Loosen bolts that hold caliper end gently pry caliper free from rotor, remove caliper and remove pads, use bungy cord to hang caliper away from rotor, have rotors measured to see if they are thick enough to have machined, replace if out of specs. Match up pads with old ones, use anti- squeak red liquid and put layer on back of pads, let dry. Use tool to put pistons back into calipers, slowly put pistons back into bore while opening up bleeder screw so ABS won't be damaged. After rotors resurfaced, wash with rubbing alchohal to remove any oils from hands, install rotors and reverse putting pads back onto caliper and reinstall, torque caliper bolts to factory specs and tighten bleeder screws. Install wheels, torque lug nuts to factory specs and replace brake fluid in resovoir. Lower car carefully to ground and press brake peddle without pumping it. Any air in system should bleed out, if not get someone to help with bleeding system. Road test to ensure no squeaks or pulling, burn brakes in slowly.

Bleed all of your brake lines.

Look through the openings in your front wheels and look at the front rotors-are they gouged up? You are probably running metal-to-metal, pads to rotors.
Chances are real good your rotors will have to be replaced along with new pads, but if you catch it early enough you might be able to have them machined, although nowadays that is hardly easy to get done and the savings usually is not as significant as it once was.

Front brake
Step 1: Identify Front Disc Brake Components

Front Wheel Drive Brake Assembly
Most front disc brake components include: brake rotor, brake pads, brake caliper, caliper mount and brake flex hose. Brake service usual occurs between 20,000 and 40,000 miles depending on driver habits, road conditions and brake pad/ rotor materials used.
Step 2: Remove Brake Caliper to Replace Pads

Removing Brake Caliper Mounting Bolts
Locate primary caliper mounting bolts; apply wrench pressure counter-clockwise (When looking at the head of the bolt) to remove the bolts, upper and lower. Make sure the bolt threads are in good shape and replace if necessary.
Step 3: Remove Front Brake Caliper

Remove Front Brake Caliper
After removing the primary caliper mounting bolts lift the brake caliper off of the rotor and then tie or secure to the side, being careful not to bend or kink the brake caliper flex hose. Thoroughly inspect brake caliper and brake hoses for leakage, cracks or chaffing and replace as needed. Next remove the brake pads (If not mounted in the caliper) and secondary caliper mounting bolts. Notice how great protective gloves work, most technicians use them on the job today.
Step 4: Remove Brake Pads

Remove Front Brake Pads
Once the brake pads have been removed, make sure if there is anti rattle hardware to transfer to the new brake pads. Some brake pad manufacturers will include the proper lube (Caliper slides) and anti-rattle hardware to ensure proper performance of their product.
Step 5: Remove Caliper Mount

Remove Caliper Mount Bracket
Finish removing secondary caliper mount bolts and remove caliper mount. Note: clean and lube caliper slides and pad friction surfaces of all foreign material or build-up.
Step 6: Remove Brake Rotor

Remove Brake Rotor
With the caliper mount out of the way you can now remove the brake rotor. Sometimes it can get stuck so you may need to tap it with a hammer or use penetrating oil to free it up. Some manufacturers use small screws to hold the rotor on as well. Clean and inspect wheel studs, replace if any are damaged. Also clean bearing hub rotor mount surface to ensure the proper mounting of the new brake rotor. Inspect the ABS sensor wheel for cracks or damage and replace as needed.
Step 7: Depressing the Brake Caliper

Resetting Brake Caliper
To install the new brake pads you must retract the brake caliper piston. Remove the master cylinder lid or open the brake caliper bleeder screw to allow excess brake fluid to be released if necessary. Install C clamp tool and gently tighten clamp until caliper piston is fully depressed. Note: use old brake pad to protect the caliper piston. Close the bleeders once the piston is retracted completely
Step 8: Installing New Brake Rotor

Install Brake Rotor
Install new brake rotor, the new rotor is manufactured with a protective film over the rotor to keep it from rusting, remove protective film with brake cleaner before installing; also after the brake job is complete you may experience a small amount of smoke from the rotor when first used. This is normal and will go away after the first couple of uses.
Step 9: Installing New Front Brake Pads

Installing New Brake Pads
Reinstall the front brake caliper mount, and then install front brake pads. Make sure the pads are seated properly in the caliper mount; it must be a close fit to work properly..
Step 10: Reinstall Front Brake Caliper

Re-Install front Bake Caliper
Reinstall front brake caliper and reinstall caliper-mounting bolts, recheck all mounts and mounting bolts. Check the caliper slides to be sure there is no bind and that the caliper moves freely back and forth on the caliper slides. Bleed brake system per manufacturer's specifications to relieve any air trapped in the system. Before driving the vehicle, push the brake pedal down and let it up slowly, repeat until normal brake pedal operation resumes, this operation is forcing the brake pads to travel to the brake rotors.

caliper is sticking or pads are sticking ,proportioning valve with vehicle jacked up and supported and wheel removed inspect pads and rotor for damage excessive wear if good- turn hub/rotor by hand have someone assist u by stepping on brake observe brake caliper stop then release brake piston should release slightly from pad try turn hub again w/out touching brake if stuck in place replace and caliper released replace pads if caliper still clamped remove caliper and inspect for leak or damage compress caliper and try brake again if does if sticks again replace caliper

OK GET A PENCIL. JACK THE CAR UP AND REMOVE THE WHEEL. REMOVE THE TWO BOLTS ON THE BACK-SIDE OF THE CALIPER. THEY MAY HAVE PLASTIC CAPS ON THEM TO PREVENT DIRT AND WATER TO GET INSIDE THEM. YOU MAY NEED AN ALLEN KEY TO UNBOLT THEM. THEN USING A FLAT-HEAD SCREWDRIVER BETWEEN THE PADS AND PISTON CAREFULLY PRY THE OPENING OF THE CALIPER OPPOSITE THE LUGS, TO LOOSEN THE PADS ENOUGH TO REMOVE THE CALIPER. SUPPORT THE CALIPER WITH A BUNGEE CORD OR ROPE TO THE COILSPRING. THEN USING THE OLD INBOARD BRAKE PAD IN PLACE, TAKE A 6 INCH C-CLAMP AND COMPRESS THE PISTON(S) BACK INTO THE CALIPER TO ALLOW THE NEW PADS TO FIT. P.S. AS THE OLD PAD WEARS, THE PISTON SLOWLY, OVER TIME, COMES OUT OF THE CALIPER TO GRIP THE ROTOR. OKAY THEN INSTALL THE NEW PADS MAKING SURE THEY ARE INSTALLED WITH THE BLACK STEEL SIDE NOT TOUCHING THE ROTOR. INSTALL THE CALIPER BOLTS AND TIGHTEN SNUGLY. YOU WILL NOTICE A SPACE IN BETWEEN THE ROTOR AND THE NEW PADS. GENTLY PUMP THE BRAKE PEDAL 2 OR 3 TIMES UNTIL THE PEDAL GETS HARD AGAIN. INSPECT THE PADS AND CALIPER, AND REPLACE WHEEL. REPEAT ON THE OTHER SIDE. BE SAFE WHEN JACKING UP AND WORKING NEAR A CAR ON A JACK. USE JACK-STANDS IF AVAILABLE. THIS SHOULD BE ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW. HOPE THIS HELPS. KEEP ME POSTED PLEASE. THANK YOU FOR AN HONEST RATING AND FOR USING FIX-YA. GOOD LUCK

The hard part is pressing the caliper piston abck into the caliper so you can get the new, thicker pads over the rotor. A large C Clamp works best.

SECTION 206-03: Front Disc Brake 2001 Villager Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Pads —Front Disc Brake Removal

1. Remove the wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .

1. Remove the front disc brake caliper bolts. torx bit. T20?

1. Support the front disc brake caliper from the front strut and spring assembly using mechanics wire.

1. Remove the front disc brake pads.
   1. Remove the outboard front disc brake pad.
   1. Remove the inboard front disc brake pad.

Installation

1. CAUTION: Make sure the master cylinder reservoir does not overfill and spill brake fluid while retracting the front disc brake caliper piston.
   NOTE: It is necessary to fully retract the front disc brake caliper piston in the bore before installing the front disc brake pads.
   Install the front disc brake pads.
   1. Install the inboard front disc brake pad.
   1. Install the outboard front disc brake pad.

Caution. The outer pads are left and right. put left on driver side.

1. Position the front disc brake caliper on the front-wheel knuckle and install the brake caliper pin bolts.

1. WARNING: It is necessary to depress the brake pedal several times to position the front disc brake caliper piston before driving the vehicle.
   

In absence of more information, this is usually an symptom of warped brake rotors. A rotor can build up enough heat in a hard stop to be bendable especially with the high hydrolic pressure a brake pad can bring to bear. Simply, If you keep the brake pedal depressed hard after a hard/long stop it can warp the rotor. (NOTE: at a hard stop, as soon as possible let the car creep forward a few inches at a time so the brake pad won't be on any one spot too long, plus keep light brake pressure --only enough to keep the car from rolling). The warped rotor causes the brake pad and caliper to float too far from the rotor and you won't feel the shimmy until you apply brakes. Under brake pedal pressure each time the wheel rotates under brake pressure the rotor and caliper will rapidly vibrate a few millimeters to each side giving the sensation of a shimmy in the sterring wheel. Most of the time this can be corrected by having the rotors resurfaced( aka Turned)

Out of balance or out of round tires can also cause a shimmy but should occur at a given speed range. Warpped rotor shimmy occurs during deceleration.