Main fuse where is the main fuse? I've had a short circuit and the ignition doesn't have any power.

A large short!. A short is a hot wire unintentionally touching ground- a metal piece of the frame. It will immediately cause sparking and blow a fuse. Also, an electric motor can have an internal short and blow the fuse for that circuit.
To find what is blowing the fuse, you have to follow every circuit that fuse protects until you find the source of the short. Look for burnt wires, like maybe too close to exhaust. Also a shorted wire can be bundled within a wiring harness, touching other wires and blowing a fuse. Since it is a main fuse, you will probably need a wiring diagram to trace all the circuits which that fuse protects. Try to isolate parts of circuits, like disconnecting the electrical connector at the ignition switch and then see if a new fuse blows. Keep working through each circuit like that until you see results. If some part or component is disconnected and the fuse doesn't blow, then you may be onto it- it could be that part you disconnected, or the wiring associated with the part.
Find a wiring diagram and see what all is part of that fuse. Good luck.

What all does that fused supply B+ voltage too ? Do you know ? That would be your first thing to find out ! Do you know what a electrical distribution diagram is ? Do you know how to test electrical circuits with a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter ? Do you know what a short to ground is ?
Which fuse ? IGN A - 40 amp ,under hood fuse / relay box ? This fuse powers the Starter Relay and Ignition and Start Switch
Does your vehicle have a manual or automatic transmission ? The starter relay could be shorted inside , It's also located in the under hood fuse box . If you pull the relay out of the box it's plugged into an look on the bottom of it you would see four sets of numbers ! 30 & 87 an 85 & 86 . If you were to jump 30 to 87 in the relay box the starter should spin the engine over , not start an run just spin ! 85 & 86 is the control side . Could be the ignition switch !
That 40amp fuse powers a lot of subsystems !

Here is a web site for free diagrams !
http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info. year , make , model an engine , Under system click on electrical distribution , under sub system click on power distribution . Then click the search button .Click blue links one at a time . First blue link scroll down to the second diagram . You will see Ign A 40 amp fuse at the top of the page .you will also see it powers the igintion switch ,look at last part of ignition switch , when in start or run that 40 amp fuse powers all those other fuse's plus three relays i see there also . A/C compressor relay , rear window defroster relay ,daytime running lights . Any one of those circuits could have your short . You need to isolate the circuits , pull fuse's till the fuse doesn't blow !

DTC P1682: Ignition 1 Switch Circuit 2

Circuit/System Description
There are 2 ignition 1 voltage circuits supplied to the engine control module (ECM). The first ignition 1 voltage circuit is provided by the powertrain relay, through a fuse. This ignition 1 voltage circuit supplies power to all the internal ECM circuits associated with the throttle actuator control (TAC) operation. The ignition main relay provides the second ignition 1 voltage circuit to the ECM, through a fuse. This ignition 1 voltage provides power to other internal ECM circuits, except those associated with TAC operation. The ECM continuously monitors the voltage level difference between the two circuits.

You can find a wiring diagram here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter your vehicle info. year , make , model engine size . Under system click on Engine ,under subsystem click on fuel controls. Then click on the search button ,then click on the blue link . The first diagram is the one you want . powertrain relay an IGN main relay .

What problem are you having ?
Ignition 1 Voltage (Ignition Main Relay)
B1370, B1380
P1682, B1370, B1380
P0575, P0650

Circuit/System Testing
Ignition ON, observe the Ignition 1 Signal and EC Ignition Relay Feedback scan tool parameters to determine which is less than B+.
Ignition OFF, remove the relay that corresponds to the scan tool parameter that is less than B+.
Important: 6 ohms or greater in the circuit/underhood fuse block will cause the DTC to set.
Ignition On, connect a 3A fused jumper wire between B+ and the applicable ignition 1 circuit terminal. Verify that the applicable scan tool parameter displays B+.
? If the applicable scan tool parameter is less than the specified value, test the ignition 1 circuit for an open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal, replace the ECM.
If all circuits test normal, test or replace the applicable relay.

You have a direct short to ground on that power feed circuit . You need to find a power distribution diagram to see what all gets is power from that fuse . Isolate the circuits till the fuse doesn't blow any more , then trace out that circuit that blows the fuse .

Which Ignition fuse ? Which fuse box is it in ? under hood , passenger compartment ?
IGN A
40A
Ignition Switch RUN, START, RUN/START/ACCY
IGN B
40A
Ignition Switch RUN/ACC, RUN/START
Could be ignition switch problem , Chevy has had problems with them .

main ignition fuse is only for just that...

if you checked that the circuit to that power outlet is OK, including the wiring, maybe the jack itself is bad

disconnect it, then use jumper wires to the battery to see if it powers on

( one question i have is every time the ignition fuse blows do i need to replace the starter relay? ) NO ! You have a dead short to ground on one of the circuits that fuse feeds. Do you know how to find a short circuit ? Video's on youtube show how. The fuse that blows ,is it IGN - A 40 amp. located in the under hood fuse/ relay center ? That fuse feeds B+ voltage to the ignition switch ,which powers up other thing's ,fuse's etc.. Not just the starter relay ! I see five other fuse's that get power from that fuse when ignition switch is in the start or run position . In the I/P fuse panel the gauges fuse #4 10amp , air bag fuse #10 10amp , turn b/u fuse #16 20amp. , Plus trans fuse #20 10 amp ! Pull out these fuse an try to start the van. if the ignition fuse doesn't blow the problem is in one of these other fuse circuits. There is one more fuse that get's B+ power from the ignition switch and ign A fuse ,crank fuse fuse #8 10amp. this powers the control side of the starter relay .
You can find a free wiring diagram here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info. year , make , model and engine . Under system click engine , under subsystem click starting. Click the search button then the blue link.
If you pull those fuse's i mention and it still blows the fuse look for a shorted ignition switch or wiring from ignition to the starter relay , not the relay itself. Park neutral safety switch . Isolate the circuit , pull the relay out of it's socket ,pull the crank fuse #8 in the I/P fuse box. with a ohm meter check to see if that part of the circuit is shorted to ground. Do you know how to do that ? Do you have a volt ohm meter ? You can buy one cheap at parts store .

short in the ignition switch or loose wire at the ignition switch. if trigger switch is the key ignition switch you referring to.

You buy the GM factory manual and then use the wiring diagrams to track down the systems the fuse supplies power to, and one by one you go through each circuit until you find the short circuit. There is no cut and dry way that works every time to find this type of an automotive electrical problem, I have been doing auto electric for 25 years and seldom does the same repair fix more than one car or truck. You can also rent the manuals for download at this site for about $40 per year, a great deal. www.alldatadiy.com

The main fuel pump in a Volvo is really well built and rarely fails (Bosch simply makes great fuel pumps). A good survival trick if you think a main fuel pump might be bad... give it a quick tap with a wrench. For best results, if possible, tap the pump when cranking the engine (while power is going to the pump). If the pump is bad, often the tap will make it come to life and it may stay running until you shut it off. This trick can get you back on the road and get you home in an emergency. If it's a bad fuel pump relay, this will NOT work as there will be no power going to your pump. If this is the case, you might try the below relay bypass "jump" trick to get power going to the pump. TESTING YOUR FUEL PUMP
How to "JUMP" the fuel pump circuit at your Volvo 240 fuse panel:The fastest method to make the main fuel pump run (bypassing the Fuel Pump Relay) is by jumping two circuits at the fuse panel (left side driver's kick panel).

You can make a jumper from a wire with stripped ends or even a straightened paperclip. Jump the circuits on the right side of the fuses for best results
For a 1979-84 240, jump fuse circuit #5 to #7.
For a 1985-93 240, jump fuse circuit #4 to #6.

If the main fuel pump doesn't begin running when jumped (you should definitely hear it humming), you either have a faulty fuel pump or faulty wiring to the pump (bad wiring is really common under an old 240, near the pump). This test of course assumes your battery is good.
If one of the fuses blows during this test, the pump circuit wiring is shorting to ground somewhere between the fuse panel and the pump.
thx

Sound like a ground problem; the fastest way to identify the Power and Ground Circuits is using a wiring diagram. If you don't have one you'll have to find out by trial and error as you probe each circuit.

The power circuit is tested with the Key On and Engine Off. Place one end of your multimeter or Test Light on the Battery Negative Terminal and with the other end, probe the Power Circuit. Turn the Key to the Run position. If the Power Circuit is OK, the Multimeter will show 12 Volts or the Test Light will light up. Here are the possible results:
* You got 12 Volts on the Power Circuit
Good, this is a good sign. The next step is to check the Ground Circuit of the Coil on Plug connector that you're testing.

* No Power in only one Ignition Coil
Without 12 Volts, the Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil will not work, thus you have just eliminated that specific Ignition Coil as the source of the fault. Replacing the Ignition Coil with a new one will only be a waste of time and money since, without Power the new one will not Spark.
Since the Power Circuit is shared by all of the coils on the majority of Coil-on-Plug Ignition Systems. The most likely cause will be an open short in that Ignition Coil's Power Circuit.
You'll have to consult your Repair Manual's wiring diagrams to make sure how everything is wired up.
After repairing the short, re-do the Spark Test to verify the Ignition Coil is now working.

* No Power at any Ignition Coils
The fuse or relay that supplies this voltage is blown or BAD.
You'll have to consult your Repair Manual's wiring diagrams to see where this fuse and/or relay is located and replace as necessary.
After replacing the blown fuse or the defective relay. Retest the Ignition Coil.

Them, the Ground Circuit is tested with the Key On or Off. It doesn't matter because this is a Chassis Ground. Place one end of your multimeter or Test Light on the Battery Positive Terminal and with the other end, probe the Ground Circuit. If the Ground Circuit is OK, the Multimeter will show 12 Volts or the Test Light will light up.

* You got Ground
Good, now the next step is to verify that the Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil is receiving the Triggering Signal. This info belongs to the next section of this article.

* No Ground in only one Ignition Coil
Without this Ground, the Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil will not work, thus you have just eliminated that specific Ignition Coil as the source of the fault. Replacing the Ignition Coil with a new one will only be a waste of time and money since, without Ground the new one will not Spark.
Since the Ground Circuit is shared by all of the coils on the majority of Coil-on-Plug Ignition Systems. The most likely cause will be an open short in that Ignition Coil's Ground Circuit.
You'll have to consult your Repair Manual's wiring diagrams to make sure how everything is wired up.
After repairing the short, re-do the Spark Test to verify the Ignition Coil is now working.

* No Ground at any Ignition Coils
This usually happens thru' human error in most cases and is a very rare thing. Usually the engine was replaced and this ground was not re-attached.
You can Ground this circuit with a jumper wire. Jumpering to Ground just one Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil should provide Ground to all of them (consult your Repair Manual's Wiring Diagrams to be sure).
With this jumper wire to Ground attached, crank the vehicle.
If in fact the Ground Circuit does have an open short, this (the jumper wire to Ground) should make the vehicle start, or at least get the Ignition Coil to Spark.
Repair the open short and retest for Spark or retry starting the vehicle.


Hope this helps. Keep us updated.