2005 slk 55 steering pulling to the left very minor but annoying

It's possible to correct for this by yourself by adjusting the outer tie rod ends, but if this all happened by hitting a curb, you need to have the front suspension checked for damage. You may have a bent control arm or damage to the steering knuckle or strut, etc. Have any damage repaired, then get an alignment done professionally. Your tires will thank you (and wear much longer), and you will have peace of mind that your vehicle is safe to drive.

• How to Adjust the Play in Power Steering

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Things You'll Need

Adjustable wrench

Pitman arm puller

Torque wrench

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Instructions

Park the vehicle on a level surface and make sure the front wheels are pointing straight ahead. Make sure the vehicle is in park (or in gear if you have manual transmission) and set the parking brake.

Disconnect the pitman arm from the steering box from underneath the front of the vehicle by turning the holding bolt in a counterclockwise direction with an adjustable wrench. Place a pitman arm puller (available at auto parts stores) over the pitman arm and tighten the nut on the puller in a clockwise direction with an adjustable wrench until the pitman arm loosens from the steering box shaft. Remove the pitman arm and the puller.

Open the hood and loosen the lock nut on top of the steering box from the engine compartment with an adjustable wrench in a counterclockwise direction.

Place a torque wrench on the steering shaft and turn the wrench one complete turn. Make sure the torque reading is approximately 2 inch pounds. Tighten the adjusting nut on top of the steering box (it comes out of the center of the lock nut) in a clockwise direction with an adjustable wrench one half turn if the torque wrench reading is too low. Loosen the nut in a counterclockwise direction if the reading is too high.

Rotate the steering shaft with the torque wrench again. Make adjustments to the steering box adjusting nut as described in Step 4, if needed, until the correct reading is obtained on the torque wrench.

Make sure the steering wheel is in the straight ahead position and reattach the pitman arm to the bottom of the steering shaft on the steering box. Tighten the holding nut in a clockwise direction with an adjustable wrench until the pitman arm seats into place.

Tighten the lock nut on top of the steering box with an adjustable wrench in a clockwise direction. Close the hood

Why are you messing with it in the first place?? This is a job for someone who knows what they are doimg,,like a wheel alignment garage.

General Description
The front suspension allows each wheel to compensate for changes in the road surface without affecting the opposite wheel. Each wheel independently connects to the frame with a steering knuckle, ball joint assemblies, and upper and lower control arms.
The control arms specifically allow the steering knuckles to move in a three-dimensional arc. Two tie rods connect to steering arms on the knuckles and an intermediate rod. These operate the front wheels.
The two-wheel drive vehicles have coil chassis springs. These springs are mounted between the spring housings on the frame and the lower control arms. Double, direct acting shock absorbers are inside the coil springs. The coil springs attach to the lower control arms and offer ride control.
The upper part of each shock absorber extends through the upper control arm frame bracket. This bracket has two grommets, two grommet retainers, and a nut.
A spring stabilizer shaft controls the side roll of the front suspension. This shaft is mounted in rubber bushings that are held by brackets to the frame side rails. The ends of the stabilizer shaft connect to the lower control arms with link bolts. Rubber grommets isolate these link bolts. Rubber bushings attach the upper control arm to a cross shaft. Frame brackets bolt the cross shaft.
A ball joint assembly is riveted to the outer end of the upper control arm. A rubber spring in the control arm assures that the ball seats properly in the socket. A castellated nut and a cotter pin join the steering knuckle to the upper ball joint.
The inner ends of the lower control arm have pressed-in bushings. The bolts pass through the bushings and join the arm to the frame. The lower ball joint assembly is a press fit in the lower control arm and attaches to the steering knuckle with a castellated nut and a cotter pin.
Ball socket assemblies have rubber grease seals. These seals prevent entry of moisture and dirt and damage to the bearing surfaces.
Four-wheel drive models have a front suspension that consists of the control arms, a stabilizer bar, a shock absorber, and right and left torsion bars. The torsion bars replace the conventional coil springs. The lower control arm attaches to the front end of the torsion bar. The rear end of the torsion bar mounts on an adjustable arm at the crossmember. This arm adjustment controls the vehicle trim height.
Two-wheel drive vehicles have tapered roller sheel bearings. These bearings are adjustible and need lubrication.
Four-wheel drive models and RWD Utilities have sealed front-wheel bearings. These bearings are pre-adjusted and need no lubrication.
Heat treatment may create darkened areas on the bearing assembly. This discoloration does not signal a need for replacement.
Hope this helps?

Yes, the box is adjustable. The front end guy can do that adjustment. I hate the condition that you describe. Are you using Light Truck (LT) tires. Car tires have softer sidewalls and also contribute. I have a Mercedes, also and it steered WORSE than my van. Van had truck tires, put tires with more sidewall plies on Mercedes and was VERY happy, tire guys thought I was nuts, but this issue causes driving stress.

tie rod ends, ball joints, and there is an adjustment on the steering box

Grab hold off the prop-shaft to see if it is quite solid, it could be a worn UJ. Check the balance weight on the same shaft to ensure it hasn't slipped forward or backwards on the shaft.
Then get wheels checked, they could need re-balancing.

There is an adjustmen screw on the opposite end of the pitman shaft. If the box is behind the frame There should be an access hole. Raise the veficle off the ground, front wheelsno load. Loosen the adjustment screw and and turn it to the right holding the lock nut.. Move steering wheel back and forth to help take your adjustment. When you feel you have taken up all the slack, turn your steering wheel from one extreme to the other, fulll left and right while feeling for any binding or sluggishness. If you are adjust too tigh, the steering may bind or not return on or after a turn. Ok, O play in pitman shaft. Back adjuster off 1/4 to half turn and lock down with nut. Cycle steering again, full L & R.. You should be set Now lower the front end, cycle steering again and make sure it is smooth and consistant. Check all other steering componants for excessive wear and play before adjusting the box. Repair other defects found. Be cautious in turns until you are absolutely sure the steering will return on its ow. Tets, test, test !!!! Ned

you have a worn out or loose steering component. easiest way to find it is to jack up the front of the truck so both tires are off the ground. grab the tire and "turn" it left to right, to simulate the actual steering. you will probably feel some kind of movement. like a loose feeling...its difficult to put into writing. but if you watch the steering parts while a buddy trys to shake the tire around a bit, then you should be able to spot what is loose or worn. keep an eye on the tierod ends, and the ball joints especially. but it could even be a bushing on the control arm. once you find whats loose, you either tighten it up, or replace the parts as needed. you may have to try shaking both tires (not at the same time), depending on what side of your truck the bad part is on. also check to see if the tire moves when you try to move it front to back. that would indicate bad wheel bearings.

Sound like it needs some steering parts, you need to jack it up and check the state of the steering components, if you have that much play in the steering wheel you could be flirting with disaster if you don't deal with it soon. If you are unsure of what to check , get it into the shop.
otherwise you need to check the steering box, tie rod ends, idler and pitman arms, ball joints etc.

Hope this is of some help.
Ed