Why would my 1995 toyota corolla stall out and not start

SOURCE: My 1995 Toyota Corolla Stalls

change the distributor, plugs and wires.

SOURCE: 1995 Toyota Corolla Door Handle

My husband (who is a weight lifter) managed to bust our door handles three times during the hot summer months. It was about $35 for the not so fancy handles and installation, I think over $50 for someone to do the fancy painted handle (driver's side door). We had it done since I think at least one of the times, the door would have had to be dismantled.
FYI the Toyota dealer said that in the hot summer months, the door handles were the items ordered the most for Toyotas across the board. We don't live in a hot climate anymore, and havent had any problems with melted/broken handles.

SOURCE: I have a 1995 Toyota Corolla the blower to the

If you've already pulled dash apart, check actual blower motor with direct current from battery before reinstalling everything. If dash is still intact, you may be able to rule out actual blower motor failure by again applying direct power from battery (short burst will suffice) - this will require getting right down under the dash with a flashlight & wires. Also check blower switch for power (some equipped with resistors that can blow) at all settings with a simple volt/amp meter.
 

SOURCE: hi i have a 1988 toyota corolla that keeps on Stalling

I had a similar problem, the middle cylinders- both compression was low. The Expert Mechanic told me that the valves have to be replaced. So the Head was opened and the valves were checked and they wer allright. The the Head was machined, and the PISTON rings were replaced. Now the vehicle runs good. This might help.
So when you get to replace the valves, be ready for the pistons/ or piston rings. cost about 600 dollars in all.

SOURCE: my 2001 toyota corolla stalls out when cold

It is registering engine too lean due to either too much air entering the engine via an intake leak or by an inaccurate reading from the MAF.

Often on these cars, particularly if they have used Toyota brand air filters, the MAF collects fuzz over time from the air filter.
As this 'fuzz' collects on the MAF element, it acts as an insulator and skews the airflow reading for the ecm; it sees less air than is actually going through, so when it checks your mixture on the way out of the engine it realizes that there is more air than it thought was going in.

Pull your MAF out of the air hose (two philips screws) and clean it with non-chlorinated brake cleaner or "MAF cleaner" available at your local parts store. Look in there with a flashlight, you will see a little coiled wire covered in little bits of fuzz before you start.

Do NOT touch the element, just use the cleaner to blast it clean. Let it air dry completely before reinstalling.



Clear the code and call it a day!