It comes up on computer as air instate flow what would that happen

i would think the breather pipe on the front is getting blocked with the snow, and this will block of air getting into the engine you would need to make an extender and turn it round in the winter so that it get air coming in from the radiator side and not the front as you drive. or you could cut the old one in half and put a nother pipe the same size as the inner diameter of the pipe and in somer put it in normal position and in winter turn it around so it dont get the air from coming in from the font get from the back or ground side. this should stop snow building up in the breather.

best have vechicle code scan.could have bad fuel injector.faulty mass air flow sensor or faulty idle air control valve.faulty alternator or PCM.

have you checked if your air filter is blogged? since you removed the air flow meter and run ok means that the flow of the air is wrong read and the ECU is causing shut off the engine. Check also if the air flow meter itself is not working correctly.

I wouldn't trust changing the MAF sensor out first. The make a cleaner that you can spray to clean the MAF. If this gets a little dirt on it, the air flow will be scattered causing the vehicle to ****, shut off, not start, etc. These are very sensitive and it REALLY don't take but your hand about 1 foot away from the air flow of this sensor, and your engine shuts down. Clean it first then go to option B...

check the rest of the ignition system, ie... timing, coil etc. also inspect mass air flow sensor

You can very well have a defective MAF sensor.. The sensor controls the fuel. If it is having trouble reading the intake aur flow or thinks there is no airflow it will cut back or off your fuel. It's in the intake duck of yhe engine in a metal section or in air filter housing. It can be cleaned CRC Electtrical spray, but don'n't rub or brush it. Air dry onLY and no compressed air . Do me a favor and let me know how it goes. The wires coming out will tell you where it is .Good Luck, Ned

If it was the mass air flow sensor, you will have a check engine light. The small rubber hoses connected to/from the mass air flow connector might have come loose or have a crack, which will cause compression to be too low. Check there before replacing the maf sensor.

You may have a problem with your MAP sensor. The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor signal is electrically used in a similar way to the use of Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor signal (although internally it is built differently). It takes a 5 volt signal from the computer, and returns a lower direct current signal in accordance with the vacuum in the engine. A higher output voltage means lower engine vacuum (which means more air flow is occurring), which is then calculated as “more fuel is needed”. Lower output signal indicates higher engine vacuum (which means lower air flow), which requires less fuel. 
It's not just fuel control though. The MAP sensor signal gives the computer a dynamic indication of engine load. The computer then uses this data to control not only fuel injection, but also gear shift and cylinder ignition timing. In some cases it is even used to calculate changes in barometric pressure, to automatically adjust for different altitudes.

The Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor helps the computer to calculate the flow and mass of the air entering the engine. It does that by measuring the cooling effect of air flow over a heated wire element. The electronic circuit inside the sensor attempts to keep the sensor at a fixed temp.
When it is cooled more by an increased air flow, more current is needed to maintain a constant temperature. The increase in current is converted into a signal to the computer. In most cars this signal would be a high frequency signal. Not as high as a radio wave, but much faster changing than the (relatively) slow frequency of the Oxygen sensor.
During low air flow rates, such as at engine idle, the MAF sensor produces a lower frequency signal. During high air flow rates, such as at wide open throttle-road load, the MAF sensor increases the frequency. The control module then converts these frequencies into their corresponding Grams-Per-Second values.

The MAP or Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor is a little though expensive device installed in your air intake hose or piping, or installed on the firewall and connected to the manifold with a thin hose. It has 5 or 12 Volts coming in, and it simply senses the vacuum in the manifold and attenuates (reduces, weakens) this incoming voltage by a certain factor. In other words it reduces the voltage in the range of 15% to 60% of the supply voltage (depending on the car's design these numbers will vary), and this varying (but non-pulsing) signal goes to the computer. Too much attenuation kills the engine, it will simply shut off. Yet if you control it correctly you can lean down the mixture from the stoichiometric (a big word that simply means “balance of ingredients”) which is factory set at 14.7:1 (14.7 parts of air to 1 part gasoline) – down to 20:1, maybe even 50:1 or 100:1.
Good luck and hope this helps, in short: you may have a bad MAP sensor and may needs to be replaced.

Near the gas pedal is a linkage that diverts the air from defrost to front to low by your feet. Sometimes this linkage comes un-done. This could be fixed by holding it in place with a wire-tie. Let me know what you find.

Had the same problem drove me nuts until I tried disconnecting Mass Air Flow Sensor, the car should drive normally but with a "Service Engine Soon Light" on. Mass air flow can run from $140 up, picked one up at recycler for $40.

Worth a try.