My 4x4 is not going on
Check that the vacuum line is connected to the unit. Everything nowadays is vacuum actuated. Even my '86 Blazer front drive is vacuum actuated.
SOURCE: 1992 isuzu trooper 3.2 DOHC
I had the same trouble with my 93 Trooper.
I went on a sensor-changing spree.
The one sensor that fixed this idle problem was the throttle position sensor.
You can get one here.
Throttle Position Sensor
It's very easy to change, and fixes the problem instantly.
Good luck.
SOURCE: 4x4 tod not engage
I SOLVED THE PROBLEM FOR FREE, gentlemen...here's how:
YES, as Tanner 78 has said, it was the Vacuum Switch Valves (VSV)
(well, T78 said 'vacuum sensor valve' but I''m sure he's talking about
the same thing)
The VSV's are tiny little things, one grey and one blue. They are made
of plastic and are each about the size of a Bic lighter. They're
mounted together on a thin rectangular metal plate which is then
mounted onto the front axle, and there is a skid plate that protects
them.
Each VSV has a solenoid inside it...a solenoid is an electrically
operated device that moves a little internal plunger back and forth. In
this case, the plunger sends 'vacuum' to either the RIGHT side or to
the LEFT side of the vacuum device that "engages" or "disengages" your
front axle.
In my case (as it turned out) the little plungers inside the solenoid
of the VSV's must have been plugged up with something...gunk... oil...I
don't know, but they were obviously not doing the job.
HERE IS HOW I FIXED MY TROOPER FOR FREE: I cleaned out the VSVs. Simple as that.
HERE IS HOW TO DO IT:
1) Remove the VSV's from the front axle. EASY DOES IT! There are three
little black vacuum hoses running to each VSV...they are a pain to
remove, and BE CAREFUL because the body of the VSV is PLASTIC and if
you break it...you buy a new one. The hoses just slip over the little
nozzles...you have to pry them off gently with a straight blade
screwdriver. However you do it, remember you're dealing with a tiny
plastic part. ALSO, be sure to note where the hoses came off! LABEL
THEM!
2) ELECTRICAL: You also have to remove a little electrical wire from
each
VSV...the wire connects with a colored plastic plug (one grey, the
other blue). There is
a TINY brass wire that locks this plug onto each VSV. You have to
GENTLY pry this wire up to let it clear the little locking lug. It's a
pain...make sure you have good light. And again, it's plastic, so take
it easy.
3) When you have the hoses and wires off, remove the little nuts that
hold the thin metal plate to the axle. The whole assembly...which is
about the size and weight of a pack of cigarettes...will come right off.
4) Remove each VSV from the metal mounting plate.
5) Where the electrical wire connects to the VSV, you will see there
are two 'spades', or little brass ears where the plug went on. You need
to get two little jumper wires with tiny alligator clips on each end,
because you have to apply battery power to these VSVs to test them.
6) Hook up the jumper wires to the spades on the VSV, then place one
clip on the negative post of your battery and one on the positive. If
the VSV is working, you should hear a very tiny CLICK from inside the
VSV. You might have to hold it right against your ear.
7) If it makes a click, it's working OK. Test it a few times.
8) If you get NO click, the plunger inside is plugged, and you need to clean it out.
9) Use a SOLVENT BASED electrical cleaner and spray it into end nozzle
of the VSV. CAUTION: Do NOT use a greasy spray like WD40 or anything
like that, or you will gum up the VSV and it will be useless. Make sure
you use a solvent based spray that completely disappears when it dries.
Spray some into your hand and let it dry...there should be NO residue
or oil on your hand at all.
10) Now it's a matter of 'spray and shake' and hooking up the wires to
the battery to listen for the CLICK. Spray the cleaner into each of the
nozzles...be generous with it... If you have some compressed air, shoot
that in too...just get the gunk out. You might not see a huge pile of
**** come flying out...we're talking about a small device here.
11) If you get to the point where each VSV makes a nice, clear CLICK
every time you apply the battery power, you're done. Reinstall
everything and it should work. MINE DID! First try...the front axle
engaged, and it works fine months later.
GOOD LUCK DUDES
SOURCE: 1998 Isuzu Trooper Shop Manual
The 1998 Isuzu Trooper is identical to the 1996 & 1997 Troopers with the 3.2L V6 motor. Chilton-Haynes have a decnet and detailed manual for this car. It's available on Amazon.com. That's where I got mine!
SOURCE: cv joint replacement 1998 isuzu trooper 4x4
This is a simple job that is why it is not very detailed in your book. Nothing special. Do one side at a time so you have a reference to how to reassemble it. Remove your tire , brake calipers be sure not to stress the rubber brake lines or open the brake lines to air. Remove both upper and lower ball joints. When taking out the ball joints remove the cotter pin and bolt and beat the **** out of the joint for it to release. Then the C/V axles will come right out with a bit out encouragement. You will need a few tools wrenches pry bar hammer. I would buy a Chilton's or a Haynes repair manual for torque specs for reassembly. Good luck and take your time. And unless the axles are making noise you can just replace the rubber boots. Which is alot cheaper.
SOURCE: cv axle 4x4 diferencial
Make sure 2- wheel drive is selected.
Jack up the vehicle front and support on axle stands. Remove the wheel.
Remove the brake caliper. It bolts onto the hub carrier(aka knuckle) with 2 bolts from the vehicle side of the carrier so you cant see them without sticking your head into the wheel arch. Slide the caliper off the rotor and hub and hang it with a piece of wire inside the wheel arch. Dont let it hang on the pipe it is connected to. The caliper may be difficult to remove if the rotor has a ridge on its outer edge due to wear.
Remove ABS speed sensor(2 bolts to remove) behind the hub
Next comes the hub assembly. :
Remove the bottom ball joint on the hub carrier.(Ball joint removal tool may be needed to free the ball joint. Dont go hammering it. That will damage the thread) Swing the carrier upwards and you should have just enough free space to pull the shaft from the hub carrier. If not remove the top balljoint as well. Remove the clamp/SS strip from the inner CV rubber boot. Pull the boot back on the shaft. Remove the circlip from inside the DOJ case. The shaft can now be pulled from the DOJ case.
Remember to preload the wheel bearing on reassembly. Tighten the hubnut to 29 N.m. then loosen fully. Tighten again by hand. Connect a spring scale to the wheel stud. Pulling on the scale in the direction of rotation should give a reading of 2-2.5 kg/4.4-5.5 lb(new bearing) or 1.2-1.8kg/2.6-4 lb(used bearing) when the rotor starts to move. If it does not, tighten the hub nut a littl and measure again. Repeat till the correct measurement is achieved. See diagram.
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