Hyundai engines are interference engines so you will have valve damage. before you attempt to do the job get yourself a workshop manual as these engines do not have torque settings but use degrees on an angle setting for the head studs. The manual will explain the timing mark settings and all the details you will need.
SOURCE: 1996 plymouth voyager timing belt broke
They are an interference engine, but you may have dodged a bullet. Once new belt is on, you may want to check, before going too much further.
SOURCE: timing slipped will it bend intake, exhaust or both sets of valve
First of all, you'll want to perform what's called a 'LEAK-DOWN' test. The assumption you make (regarding Intake versus exhaust) is irrevelant. Interferrence is BOTH intake and exhaust valve clearances.
A leak down or "cylinder leakage" test is similar to a compression test in that it tells you how well your engine's cylinders are sealing. But instead of measuring pressure, it measures pressure loss.
A leak down test requires the removal of all the spark plugs. The crankshaft is then turned so that each piston is at top dead center (both valves closed) when each cylinder is tested. Some people start with cylinder number one and follow the engine's firing order.
A threaded coupling attached to a leakage gauge is screwed into a spark plug hole. Compressed air (80 to 90 psi) is then fed into the cylinder. You don't have to use that much pressure... you can use 30 psi... percentages are the same.
An engine in great condition should generally show only 5 to 10% leakage. An engine that's still in pretty good condition may show up to 20% leakage. But more than 30% leakage indicates trouble.
The neat thing about a leakage test (as opposed to a compression test) is that it's faster and easier to figure out where the pressure is going. If you hear air coming out of the tailpipe, it indicates a leaky exhaust valve. Air coming out of the throttle body or carburetor would point to a leaky intake valve. Air coming out of the breather vent or PCV valve fitting would tell you the rings and/or cylinders are worn.
A leakage test can also be used in conjunction with a compression test to diagnose other kinds of problems.
A cylinder that has poor compression, but minimal leakage, usually has a valvetrain problem such as a worn cam lobe, broken valve spring, collapsed lifter, bent push rod, etc.
If all the cylinders have low compression, but show minimal leakage, the most likely cause is incorrect valve timing. The timing belt or chain may be off a notch or two.
If compression is good and leakage is minimal, but a cylinder is misfiring or shows up weak in a power balance test, it usually indicates a fuel delivery (bad injector) or ignition problem (fouled spark plug or bad plug wire). These are not ABSOLUTE conclusions -- each assumption must be VERIFIED before concluding anything. You mentioned "the lifters seem to be collapsed."... Did you VERIFY this? Since you KNOW the engine is OUT - OF - TIME because you KNOW the timing belt has SLIPPED, then you know you must PUT IT BACK IN TIME... right?...before you can continue diagnosis.... right? Otherwise, what are you MEASURING?
SOURCE: 1994 1.9 the timing belt broke.did it bend the valves.
For what it's worth, my info tells me it's a non-interference engine, so your o.k. but I will double check that & get back to you.
SOURCE: hyundai elantra 1.6GLS J2 torque settings
dear friend:here follows the settings in need:
cylinder head-30-35 nm + 30-35 + 65deg + 65deg.
mains-30nm +65deg
big ends- 1 - 26nm 2 - 52NM
fly-wheel -130nm
cam-sprocket - 100-120
crank-pulley - 170-180
cam caps -15nm
SOURCE: Correct torque on cylinder head bolts for Hyundai Elantra 1.8GLS
You have two bolt sizes the shorter or smaller of the two sizes is called M10 the torque is 22ft lbs +65 degrees +65 degrees again The larger of the two bolts is called a M12 the torque for these are 26ft lbs +65+65. There is a tightening order staring at the top center bolt and working in a circle They have to be torqued in three steps. If you dont under stand something about this repost and I can help you farther. If this is helpful please mark that it was I do this for free to help people DRIVE SAFE TIM
Before installing tool. If the belt broke turn the engine so the #1 piston is half way up. This way you will not bend the valves while turning cams. If you feel that the cams are very hard to turn or stops turning then turn crank by hand to lower piston away from valve. Then turn the cams clockwise or counter clockwise slow one at a time too the proper slot position for the tool to fit. Once the cam marks are lined up bring the #1 piston to its TDC.
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