How to bleed brakes on 2003chevy tahoe 4wd

keep bleeding keep bleeding and check replacement lines for possible leaks

Hey Phil, sounds like you do quite a bit of work on your Tahoe.. you need one of these..

http://repair.chiltondiy.com/Pub/DIY/Product.aspx?ca=Repair&b=28779

Chevrolet Silverado Suburban Tahoe Avalanche GMC Yukon Yukon XL Yukon...

Chevrolet Silverado GMC Sierra 1999 thru 2006 2WD and 4WD

It is not supposed to. The traction control gives power to opposing wheels and applies brakes in milliseconds to prevent total loss of control of the car. The computer immediately takes over and prevents 4wd that could send the car into a worse skid.. You are talking about ice which is very different from snow where traction is concerned. The grinding you hear could have been the anti-lock system being activated.

IT appears that only half of the master cylinder has bled properly. Try loosing the pipe nuts at the m/cyl and gently pump the pedal until you get fluid out of both lines. Then re-bleed the system starting at the longest line first ending at the shortest. Some master cylinders have a plunger fitted in the middle of the cylinder and this is there to still have brakes if a line fails. It may be necessary to remove it an plug the hole temporarily while you bleed the system as to stops one piston in the cylinder from moving and allowing proper bleeding

If there's no pedal pressure, you've still got air in the brake pipes or you've got an open fluid circuit. Look for leaks, if none they need bleeding again.

The lights come on when the 4wd is deactivated by pcm. check the speed sensors for debris built up on it.

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Turn your key to the on position(do not start), then push the throttle pedal to the floor three times, turn of the ignition, wait a second or twothen start the engine, this should reset it. Works on the 2000 Tahoe LT 4WD

Try having the dealer flush and bleed your system. It is very hard to bleed ABS systems yourself and have safe brakes that still work afterward. Bleeding non-ABS brakes yourself is easy not the same for ABS brakes. Valving, sensors and what-not require a tech and the correct equipment in my opinion. You do it wrong and you could ruin your ABS system. Do that and see if they firm up. I replaced my brake shoes/pads at the same time all new everything in back, drums/springs everything and new rotors up front. then I had the chevy dealer flush, refill and bleed system. Stiffer pedal and brakes work better. Keep in mind the brakes on 99 Tahoes are inaedequate, require new rotors often, heat up and fade/glaze pads regularly. I replace my pads long before they wear down because they glaze up and start fading early. I'll rough em up once maybe, next time, new ones. Every two brake jobs, new rotors for me. Just how it is. They will stiffen a bit and work better but they will never be awesome brakes. Just how it is on 99 and earlier Tahoes. Hope it helps. Very important to bleed correctly though. I'll bleed my 83 Toyota 4x4 myself but not the Tahoe.

Some of the 03 Tahoe's have an issue with the Crankshaft position sensor that causes it to stall or not crank at all. Have someone check the Crankshaft position sensor.

i think what you are talking about is the front differential. you will wanna put gear oil in it. the correct weight would be found in your manual.