My 87 reliant stalls when it gets hot.

How do you know it floods? Fuel injected vehicles should not over fuel the engine unless an injector/fuel pressure regulator is leaking internally or the computer commands a high injector pulse rate based on sensor information. Does it have spark and fuel pressure when the no start condition presents itself?

i would check the fuel pressure. see how fast the pressure goes down. most cars i have worked on it dosnt take that many key-ons to get fuel. a fuel pressure regulator could be leaking. there is a check ball in the pump to keep the fuel from draining back. since the pump is new, i would check the regulator and poss. the injectors. its poss. for an injector to leak or stick open

Not if you have spark. You may have increased resistance in the fuel injector circuit. I have read that liberal use of electrical contact (tv tuner) cleaner on the injector circuit connectors may cure this. You should measure the resistance through the injector terminals. Cold, it should be between .9 and 1.2 ohms. If all tests OK, you may have a bad injector driver in the computer.

Yes, the pick-up coil was a common cause of what you describe.
Drive along and suddenly die, but by the time help arrived it would re-start, and run for a while again, then quit again until it cooled down.

Sounds like vapor lock. This means that fuel is being boiled before it reaches the engine. Check for loose insulation, gas line exposed to exhaust pipe, etc. basically your gas has to remain cool before it gets used by the engine.

Locate the fuel pressure regulator and remove the vacuum line and start the engine, inspect, if vac port leaks fuel , replace regulator, provided your vehicle is equipped with a vacuum operated fuel pressure regulator.

The fact the fuel pressure does not hold after the pump stops is a big problem indicating a fuel leak into the upper manifold, which would cause the flooding. This leak could have several causes, but since the problem is still there after replacing the regulator, it sounds like the problem is with the injector in the spider assembly.
It sounds like you have a design 1 spider assembly, with only one fuel injector distributing fuel to the six poppets. If that is the case, I suggest you try replacing the entire assembly (which will include a new regulator) with the Delco design 2 version which has injectors on each poppet.

GM Century/Lumina/Grand Prix/Intrigue 1997-2000
Fuel Pressure Regulator - Removal & Installing
The fuel pressure regulator is a diaphragm-operated relief valve with fuel pump pressure on one side and regulator spring pressure and intake manifold vacuum on the other side. The regulator's function is to maintain a constant fuel pressure across the injectors at all times. The pressure regulator compensates for engine load by increasing fuel pressure as engine vacuum drops.

The fuel pressure regulator is serviced as a separate component. When servicing the pressure regulator, make sure that the O-ring back-up, large O-ring, filter screen and small O-ring are properly positioned on the pressure regulator.


Fig. Cutaway view of a typical fuel pressure regulator


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
The need to work as cleanly as possible cannot be over-emphasized. Even the smallest amount of dirt, if allowed into the fuel pressure regulator and/or the fuel rail, will find its way to the fuel injectors. The nozzle openings of the injectors are very small. Keep hands and tools clean. Clean the areas to be disconnected with a suitable solvent. Carefully cover open fittings and connections to keep out foreign material. Dirt in the injectors almost guarantees a clogged fuel injector and engine performance problems.
3.1L and 3.4L (VIN E) Engines

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Relieve the fuel system pressure using the procedures found in this section.
3. Remove the upper intake manifold assembly. Please see .
4. Disconnect the vacuum line from the pressure regulator.
5. Remove the regulator retaining screw and remove the retainer bracket. Using a clean shop cloth to catch fuel spillage, carefully pull the regulator from the fuel rail. Twist the regulator slightly while removing to ease removal. Discard the O-ring.

Fig. Exploded view of the fuel pressure regulator mounting-3.1L and 3.4L (VIN E) engines
To install:

1. Clean all parts well. DO NOT use shop compressed air to test or clean a fuel pressure regulator. Clean the fuel pressure regulator screen, if necessary. DO NOT immerse the fuel pressure regulator in a solvent bath or it will be damaged.
2. If the filter screen has been contaminated, it should be removed and the pressure regulator replaced.
3. Lubricate a new pressure regulator O-ring with clean engine oil and install on the regulator inlet.
4. Install the fuel return pipe to the regulator.
5. Install a new retainer and spacer bracket into the slot on the fuel rail and install the pressure regulator to the fuel rail. Tighten the fuel return line nut to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm).
6. Connect the vacuum line to the pressure regulator and install the retainer screw. Tighten to 76 inch lbs. (8.5 Nm).
7. Inspect and verify that the retainer and spacer bracket is engaged in the slots in the fuel rail. Grasp and pull on the regulator to ensure that it is properly seated.
8. Install the upper intake manifold. Please see .
9. Connect the negative battery cable.
10. Inspect for leaks using the following procedure:
    • Turn the ignition switch to the ON position for 2 seconds.
    • Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position for 10 seconds.
    • Turn the ignition switch to the ON position again.
    • Inspect all areas for fuel leaks.

Other size engine can find in autozone.com (free register).

Hope this help (remember rated this).

Use a gage and check proper fuel pressure. My info for the 7.4L engine says, 26--32 psi, so if it is right in the middle somewhere, should be ok. If pressure too high, check out the return side of the fuel system.
If you have a leaking fuel injector, fix it.