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Anonymous Posted on Sep 04, 2014

Wiring different sensors to the break and back lights

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You may be able to find shop manual for your year and make at your local library. If not you can pick up a new repair manual at your nearest auto parts store, or possible a used one at second hand book store. Wiring diagrams will differ between different models in the same year and between the same model over different years.
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Since those are different circuits, it sounds like a break in the wiring harness somewhere.
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Diagram for wiring for break lights on rav4 1996

The AutoZone website may have a wiring diagram in the sites self help repair section.

If you have a voltmeter check for voltage and ground continuity at the bulbs. Check for voltage before and after the brake switch (operate the switch). If you don't have a voltmeter connect something up with a 12V bulb.

If you have voltage after the switch (when operated) but none at the bulb might check the brake/tail light sensor. This is the actual sensor box located in the trunk, drivers side. The sensor can fail resulting no brake lights.

There have been various posts at this forum on the sensor, suggest you do a site search to find these and review them.

But first start checking for voltage.
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The low coolant light is always on in my 2002 Buick Century. The rad was flushed as well as the overflow container and the coolant level never drops. The needle of temperature gage is always at the mid...

if the sensor was changed, the wiring to the sensor has to have a break in it somewhere. check for power and ground at your connector, and start tracing back to find the break. good luck!
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We bled the breaks...why is my break light still on?

By bleeding the brakes you cause uneven pressures in each half of the dual hydraulic system. Therefore, the sensor switch that detects this pressure imbalance has operated and will remain set as indicated by warning light. The switch is either located on the side of the Brake Master Cylinder or on the proportioning valve on the firewall.
To reset detecting switch, first disconnect wiring plug (Light should go out with plug disconnected) and remove switch. You may hear a click as the pressure difference piston resets as you remove the sensing switch. Pump the brake pedal a couple of times to ensure piston has reset and then replace switch and wiring connector.
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Want to replace front break pads

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I recently could not get my car inspected in NY because of a Check Engine Light. I found that is was my O2 sensor. so I replaced all 4 of them. Now the light is back on and I had it checked says sensor 1...

The wiring to the sensor or the connection plug is burnt as the wiring gets close to the exhaust manifold and down pipe. Sensor 1 Bank 2 should be the right rear sensor or the back side of the engine after the cat. Check your wiring at the sensor plug and retrace back up to the the main harness to find a burnt spot or a break in the wire at a tie off to the frame. Next the vacuum leak may be a bad gas cap. Check to be sure it is on right, ck for any hoses that may have be loosened during the replacement of the Ox sensors.
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All, but one rear break lights are out on my 2005 Honda Odsseey and none of the dash board sensors are registering a probelm. Do I just need to purchase the light bulbs for the breaks?

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Checking the fault codes

Yes.  Next to the ash tray there is a black slide off plate that reveals the OBD I plug.  {1996 and newer can be read with an OBD II reader (read for free at Advance auto or Auto Zone)}  Once you reveal this plug on the 1995, you can plug in a single jumper wire (or even a paper clip) in the #4 and #15 pin hole.  There are two rows of pin holes, count from the upper right to the #4, then on to #15 (which will be the second to last pin hole).  Turn the ignition switch on (motor not running), insert the jumper wire for about 3 to 5 seconds, then remove the wire.  The ENGINE LIGHT will flash a hold, then the code, which will go something like this, flash, flash, PAUSE, flash, flash, PAUSE, flash, PAUSE, flash, flash, flash, flash.  Then it will repeat the codes if you just sit there and observe it.  The code in my example would be a 2214 code.
Below are some code I found on a website.  I hope this helps.  Now I ask that you take the time to answer someone elses question.  Lets all share.  Good luck, "Peace through power and knowledge"

CODE FAULT
0000 End of fault sequence
1111 Bad ground to Electronic Control Unit (ECU) or ECU failure-check grounds or replace
ECU
1119 Transmission Range - Defective wiring. Check for break or short.
1213 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) - Check transmission speed sender wiring and the wiring of
the instrument cluster
1231 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) (G54) - Check transmission speed sender wiring and the
wiring of the instrument cluster
1232 Throttle Position Actuator - Check defective actuator or wiring for break or short.
2111 Engine speed sender. (RPM)
2112 Ignition reference sender
2113 Hall sender - No speed signal from distributor; check Hall sensor and circuits or the
Air-flow sensor plate is not moving freely; adjust potentiometer or lever.
2114 Hall sender not on reference point or distributor out of position.
2121 Idle switch - check switch & circuit.
2122 Hall sender - Check wiring for break or short.
2123 Full throttle switch; check switch & circuit.
2132 Electronic Control Module (ECM) - No ignition to injection signal.
2141 Knock sensor 1 control at maximum ****** - test compression, change octane, adjust
timing, check knock-sensor wires.
2142 Knock sensor 1 signal - Test sensor, check wiring for break or short.
2143 Knock sensor 2 control at maximum ****** - test compression, change octane, adjust
timing, check knock-sensor wires.
2144 Knock sensor 2 signal; test sensor.
2212 Throttle Potentiometer - Value out of range.
2214 RPM Signal - Idle speed to high or engine over-revved
2221 Vacuum Control - No vacuum to control unit. Check for leaks.
2222 Manifold Vacuum - Check vacuum line and wastegate for leaks.
Pressure sensor - Sensor defective
2223 Altitude Sensor - Check sensor, check wiring for break or short.
2224 Turbo/Manifold pressure - Check turbo control wiring, check for over boost, air leak,
defective wastegate valve, vacuum leak or defective pressure sensor.
2231 Idle-speed stabilizer adjustment limits exceeded; too-fast idle. Adjust throttle for full
closing, check for vacuum leak, check ignition timing.
Or
Air Mass Sensor - Check sensor and wiring.
2232 Air mass/flow sensor - No signal. Check wiring for break or short.
2233 Air mass/flow sensor reference voltage open or short circuit
2234 ECM Supply voltage low.
2242 CO-potentiometer voltage low
2312 Coolant temperature sensor - Check wiring, check resistance.
2314 Transmission to Engine control module circuit. - Check wires for breaks or shorts.
2322 Intake Air Temperature Sensor - Check sensor and wiring.
2323 Mass Airflow Sensor - Check sensor and wiring for breaks.
2324 Mass Airflow Sensor - Check sensor and wiring for breaks or shorts to B+ or ground or
check for air leak.
2331 Oxygen Sensor Control - Out of range. - Check ignition, air intake for leaks and injectors.
2332 Oxygen Sensor - Bank 2 - Check wiring for breaks or shorts.
2341 Oxygen sensor (O2) at control limit; check CO, lambda-sensor wire, lambda-sensor
control, start valve, evaporative system and check for vacuum leaks.
2342 Oxygen Sensor Control - no signal - Check wiring, sensor.
2343 Rich limit; the pressure regulator has exceeded +10 mA for more than 5 minutes,
closed-loop; check for vacuum leaks.
2344 Lean limit; the pressure actuator has exceeded -5mA for more than 5 minutes, closed
loop; check idle.
2411 EGR System Malfunction
2412 Intake Air Temperature Sensor - Check sensor and wiring for breaks or shorts
2413 Mixture Control - Running rich
Fuel pressure too low
3424 Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) failure - Check lamp and wiring.
4311 Secondary Air Injection Pump Relay - Check relay and wiring.
4312 EGR Frequency Valve
4313 Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve - Check valve and wiring.
4331 EVAP Carbon Canister Solenoid Purge Valve 2
4332 Ignition Circuit Final Stage - Check for break or short to ground or B+ or bad ECM.
4343 EVAP Carbon Canister Solenoid Purge Valve 1
4411 Fuel Injector Cylinder 1 or 1 & 5
4412 Fuel Injector Cylinder 2 or 2 & 7
4413 Fuel Injector Cylinder 3 or 3 & 6
4414 Fuel Injector Cylinder 4 or 4 & 8
4421 Fuel Injector Cylinder 5
4422 Fuel Injector Cylinder 6
4423 Fuel Injector Cylinder 7
4424 Fuel Injector Cylinder 8
4431 Idle Air Control Valve / Idle Stabilizer - Check valve and wiring.
4433 Fuel Pump Relay
4442 Wastegate - Defective frequency valve or wiring.
Boost pressure circuit - Check for short.
4443 EVAP Canister purge valve.
4444 No fault in system.
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