How can I replace the sliding door cover to the cup holder broke in two. I want to know how to replace it?
SOURCE: 2005 Acura tl brake replacement
The Brembos that come on Type S/Manual models wear fast. I've changed them at 20,000 miles. They are expensive also.
Non-Type S/Manual models I have seen go 80,000 miles. The biggest factor on brake wear is how the vehicle is driven.
At 50,000 miles I would have them inspected. Depending on where you go, make sure you get an accurate measurement of both pads (inboard and outboard). 2mm is the service limit and about that time the indicators start making noise, but not always. Most indepent shops are going to sell you brake pads at 4mm. That's another 10,000 miles at least you could have driven on them.
Never replace just the brake pads, resurface or replace the rotors. The uneven surfaces of the rotor will cause your new pads to wear incorrectly and possibly cause brake noise. Most aftermarket pads will cause a squeel.
SOURCE: Tail light replacement 2005 acura TL
if it's a tail light housing that broke, and not the bulb that simply burnt out, i'm afraid your solution isn't that simple. you have to at least loosen the bumper on the side that the tail light need be replaced. which will include removing the mud flap on that side of the car, removing all the clips on the bottom of the bumper, and removing the two bolts behind the quarter sized plastic covers just inside the trunk lid.
SOURCE: how to change spark plugs on 2005 acura tl
Hi,
you need a 6 inch extension, short 3/8 ratchet, 5/8 plug socket, 3/8 swivel "u" joint, (sold at sears) 8mm 1/4 drive socket deep well and 1/4 inch ratchet.
find the coil packs (6 total, three in each head.)
remove the two retaining nuts holding each coil pack using 1/4 8mm socket and ratchet.
twist the pack to break the sticking boot below.
pull up (be careful to not rip the boots however it may still happen but rare.)
remove coil packs, the rear is a little more difficult with the intake.
use 6" extension and u joint and ratchet to remove plugs and replace.
reverse order to assemble. Good luck, and hoped this helped.
SOURCE: trying to replace a front headlight bulb on 2001 acura 3.2 TL
Look for the end of the wire retainer clip. Unhook it and lift it up. Remember not to touch the bulb. But if you do, just clean it with a bit of alcohol.
btw - Here's a bit of info from a previous post of mine...
The low beams consist of three parts. The bulb, inverter/ballast and
the ignitor. The bulbs usually start to loose their color long before they burn out.
The inverters/ballasts either go out after a while or take a while to
start up.
Before you spend money on a new bulb, try swapping it with the one on
the other side. You'll need a security torx screwdriver to get the
covers off of the back of the lights. Don't touch the glass bulbs. If you do, just clean them with a bit of alcohol.
If the problem stays on that
side, try swapping the ignitors. They're mounted inside the black
covers.
If the problem is still on that side you've got a bad inverter. They're
mounted on the bottom of the headlight assembly. You'll need to remove
the front bumper and remove the headlight assembly to get to it. (I
recommend you take pictures as you remove things so can put them back
together correctly.)
SOURCE: starter replacement on acura 2000 TL 3.2
This starter can be changed without disassembling the top of the engine on the 2.5 with automatic transmission. You will need a 10mm, 14 mm, 17mm, and a 9mm wrench. First with any electrical repair disconnect the battery at the negative terminal. The starter is on the driver's side close to the firewall below the intake manifold. Remove the transmission dip stick so you don't ruin it, then look and study the starter itself. You will notice the starter drive housing with a top and bottom bolt. The top bolt is a 14mm and the bottom a 17mm, loosen both a half turn. Remove the top 14mm bolt first, then the bottom 17mm, this will allow you to pull the starter out of the bell housing. With some angling and no brackets holding the back of the starter you should be able to pull it out enough to disconnect the positive wire and 9mm nut from the soleniod. Disconnect the starter ignition small wire by pulling it off it's connector. Now just pull it out of the engine and fender void and you've got it, saving about a hundred and fifty dollars of labor. Take it to the parts house and match it up with a well made remanufactured or new starter. Reverse the proceedure, hook up the battery.
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