What is causing my car to spudder and bog out when i try to accelerate and rpms get around 3000?

I would start by changing your fuel filter and if that doesn't help, have your catalytic converters flow tested.

there is not info to be able to give a definite answer
to work it out
you have top know the diff ratio, wheel tyre circumference to be able to work from rpms of the engine to road speed
However as a pointer, most cars will be around 3200 rpms at 60mph as this will be direct drive and od causes a drop in rpms
Being an automatic find yourself a good section of low traffic road and start from stop slowly increase the rpms and watch the rpms. keeping the accelerator steady you will see when the auto changes by a drop in rpms. slowly increase road sped until you see the next drop in rpms and so on. Over drive normally comes in around 55 mph or around 3000rpms
I would think that it is working because 3500rpms at 75mph is reasonable rpms to be expected. If it wasn't working I would expect the rpms to be around 3800 to 4000.at 75mph

if this is a 2 stroke and went under water the problem may be damaged reed valves on the inlet side of the crankcase. Working all right when the air flow is low but do not seal of properly at rpms.. Suggest that you have an accredited outboard specialist look at it.

MAP sensor may be going bad letting it over fuel the engine causing black smoke and bogging RPMs .

It almost sounds as if the rev limiter is kicking in.

May need a tune up have a fuel delivery issue. Many problems. Needs to be checked by a Mechanic.

Carol Ann,
Your catalytic converter is plugged up [restricted] This is causing the exhaust to get red hot and causing the reduction in power. You need to replace this part [$$$} The catalytic converter failed because you have been driving the car for months with the fuel mixture excessively rich.
You need to find and fix the cause of the rich mixture or your replacement catalytic converter will also fail in a few more months.

Sounds like catalytic converters beginning to plug up and or dirty fuel injectors. Either one will slowly get worse. Try seafoam inj cleaner 1st a couple of times n see what happens. Good luck

With normal acceleration the 1st to second shift point should be around 2500-3000 rpm. Most of your shifts under moderate acceleration will take place at this same point or when there a light load on the transmission. Under hard acceleration the RPMs will climp higher due to increased power needs and the computer will shift when less power is needed or the RPMs climb to an unsafe speed say5000-6000rpms (depending on where yours redlines). Also going up a steep hill will raise the RPMs higher and goind down a hill will cause a faster shift at lower RPMs. These can always be altered by an individual owner by adjusting shift points, using performance parts and if you have problems (low tranny fluid/trans issues). Your trans RPMS are fine and will vary depening on how your foot accelerates. The shift pattern should be the same every time you drive slow/medium/fast/, look for changes in those patterns you will also catch a problem early.

Had the same problem with by 1998 S10 a couple years ago. Changed fuel filter?? didn't work. Changed the fuel pump?? didn't work. Changed the fuel pressure regulator?? didn't work.

I was about to the end of my rope when I put a timing light on it and it showed firing on cylinders more then once a cycle. Turns out my distributor cap was bad and spark was jumping between contacts. When a spark is spread out over more then one cylinder, it doesn't fire correctly and that is causing it to bog out. Simple and a lot cheaper then all the other fixes I tried. Crank sensor was my next option though.