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Anonymous Posted on Aug 25, 2014

Fan not workin an water dumping from overflow

No broken belts or hoses

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Overheating

Physically look in the radiator under the cap(if one exsist's) when cool, for coolant level, and check the valve in the cap for sticking. If air is present in the radiator it can't get out, and more coolant can't get in,(from the overflow). Either clean the cap or replace it and check that it is the CORRECT cap.

If radiator is low on coolant fill it to overflowing, replace cap, and check that coolant overflow is filled to the COLD line or mark. The overflow is normally where you would add coolant. (never overfill the overflow)After refilling as outlined above, check the level every morning for 2 or 3 days until coolant level stops dropping below the cold mark and add coolant to the overflow ONLY. Do not open the radiator cap. Also, if you have even a tiny coolant leak anywhere in the system, air will get drawn in, instead of coolant from the overflow.

For more OVERHEATING PROBLEMS try these...
Radiator fins dirty, clean with a strong stream of water, not high pressure water.
Radiator clogged, try backflushing it, or replace.
Thermostat stuck open or shut, replace it. Or installed BACKWARDS.
Water pump worn out, can no longer move enough coolant, replace it.
Fan shroud broken or missing....
Electric Fan(s) not working, Check the fan, relay, fuse and engine temperature sensor's.
Belt driven fan, belt slipping, fan clutch is bad, fan blades have flattened out.

Air dam under front bumper is gone, loose, or broken. It actually has a purpose other than scraping on the driveway or curbs. It forces air up into and thru the condenser and radiator. If it's loose, airflow can actually push it out of place making it useless or blocking the airflow. Along with that, there may also be a plastic piece attached to the bottom of, and wraps up behind the bumper. If it's loose, airflow can actually push it out of place blocking the airflow. Simply reattach it with 4 or 5 screws.

Also, if the vehicle has A/C and electric fans, one fan is dedicated to the A/C and should come on almost the instant the A/C is turned on. The engine fan will run even with the key off, that is normal. The system is trying to cool itself. Hope this helps.

Normally, you shouldn't have to bleed the cooling system but, there are two bleed valves. (these are the most logical locations)One is just above the water pump, and the other is on the thermostat housing. They are really small, and due to the age of your car, they will be brittle and almost impossible to open without breaking them.
You don't want to break them. If you are hearing air circulating thru the cooling system, try this and let me know how you make out.....

4helpful
4answers

Car is over heating and the stat has been installed & radiator have been flushed,whats next

Physically look in the radiator under the cap(if one exsist's) when cool, for coolant level, and check the valve in the cap for sticking. If air is present in the radiator it can't get out, and more coolant can't get in,(from the overflow). Either clean the cap or replace it and check that it is the CORRECT cap.

If radiator is low on coolant fill it to overflowing, replace cap, and check that coolant overflow is filled to the COLD line or mark. The overflow is normally where you would add coolant. (never overfill the overflow)After refilling as outlined above, check the level every morning for 2 or 3 days until coolant level stops dropping below the cold mark and add coolant to the overflow ONLY. Do not open the radiator cap. Also, if you have even a tiny coolant leak anywhere in the system, air will get drawn in, instead of coolant from the overflow.

For more OVERHEATING PROBLEMS try these...
Radiator fins dirty, clean with a strong stream of water, not high pressure water.
Radiator clogged, try backflushing it, or replace.
Thermostat stuck open or shut, replace it.
Water pump worn out, can no longer move enough coolant, replace it.
Fan shroud broken or missing....
Electric Fan(s) not working, Check the fan, relay, fuse and engine temperature sensor's.
Belt driven fan, belt slipping, fan clutch is bad, fan blades have flattened out.

Air dam under front bumper is gone, loose, or broken. It actually has a purpose other than scraping on the driveway or curbs. It forces air up into and thru the condenser and radiator. If it's loose, airflow can actually push it out of place making it useless or blocking the airflow. Along with that, there may also be a plastic piece attached to the bottom of, and wraps up behind the bumper. If it

2helpful
1answer

2001 chevy cavalier, was overheating and took out thermostat, let it idle then was not over heating,bought new thermostat put it in then overheated what do i do?

Physically look in the radiator under the cap(if one exsist's) when cool, for coolant level, and check the valve in the cap for sticking. If air is present in the radiator it can't get out, and more coolant can't get in,(from the overflow). Either clean the cap or replace it and check that it is the CORRECT cap.

If radiator is low on coolant fill it to overflowing, replace cap, and check that coolant overflow is filled to the COLD line or mark. The overflow is normally where you would add coolant. (never overfill the overflow)After refilling as outlined above, check the level every morning for 2 or 3 days until coolant level stops dropping below the cold mark and add coolant to the overflow ONLY. Do not open the radiator cap. Also, if you have even a tiny coolant leak anywhere in the system, air will get drawn in, instead of coolant from the overflow.

For more OVERHEATING PROBLEMS try these...
Radiator fins dirty, clean with a strong stream of water, not high pressure water.
Radiator clogged, try backflushing it, or replace.
Thermostat stuck open or shut, replace it.
Water pump worn out, can no longer move enough coolant, replace it.
Fan shroud broken or missing....
Electric Fan(s) not working, Check the fan, relay, fuse and engine temperature sensor's.
Belt driven fan, belt slipping, fan clutch is bad, fan blades have flattened out.

Air dam under front bumper is gone, loose, or broken. It actually has a purpose other than scraping on the driveway or curbs. It forces air up into and thru the condenser and radiator. If it's loose, airflow can actually push it out of place making it useless or blocking the airflow. Along with that, there may also be a plastic piece attached to the bottom of, and wraps up behind the bumper. If it

0helpful
1answer

Overheating and knocking noise like the antifreeze is beginning to boil cant keep antifreeze in the raditaor

Physically look in the radiator under the cap when cool, for coolant level, and check the valve in the cap for sticking. If air is present in the radiator it can't get out, and more coolant can't get in,(from the overflow). Either clean the cap or replace it and check that it is the CORRECT cap.

If radiator is low on coolant fill it to overflowing, replace cap, and check that coolant overflow is filled to the COLD line or mark. The overflow is normally where you would add coolant.
Radiator fins dirty, clean with a strong stream of water, not high pressure water.
Radiator clogged, try backflushing it, or replace.
Thermostat stuck open or shut, replace it.
Water pump worn out, can no longer move enough coolant, replace it.
Fan shroud broken or missing....
Electric Fan(s) not working, Check the fan, relay, fuse and engine temperature sensor's.
Belt driven fan, belt slipping, fan clutch is bad, fan blades have flattened out.

Air dam under front bumper is gone, loose, or broken. It actually has a purpose other than scraping on the driveway or curbs. It forces air up into and thru the condenser and radiator. If it's loose, airflow can actually push it out of place making it useless or blocking the airflow. Along with that, there may also be a plastic piece attached to the bottom of, and wraps up behind the bumper. If it

3helpful
2answers

Ok, so the temperature guage fluctuates between halfway up the guage and 3/4 of the way up the guage. It overheated once and there is no antifreeze in the oil and the fluid level is not going down, yet I...

Sounds like there is air trapped in the system. On a COLD engine, remove the radiator cap, and check the level. If it's low, slowly add coolant until the rad is filled right to the top, then cap it. Top up coolant overflow bottle if required. Start the engine. As the engine reaches operating temperature, the coolant level in the overflow bottle should rise. If it doesn't, it means that all the air is not yet 'burped' out of the system. Provided that the radiator cap is good, and that the coolant level is maintained at the proper level, the system should eventually expel all the air. Hope this helps. Good luck.
0helpful
1answer

How do u add antifreeze to a mountaineer

OVERHEATING

Physically look in the radiator under the cap when cool, for coolant level, and check the valve in the cap for sticking. If air is present in the radiator it can't get out, and more coolant can't get in,(from the overflow). Either clean the cap or replace it and check that it is the CORRECT cap.

If radiator is low on coolant fill it to overflowing, replace cap, and check that coolant overflow is filled to the COLD line or mark. The overflow is normally where you would add coolant.
Radiator fins dirty, clean with a strong stream of water, not high pressure water.
Radiator clogged, try backflushing it, or replace.
Thermostat stuck open or shut, replace it.
Water pump worn out, can no longer move enough coolant, replace it.
Fan shroud broken or missing....
Electric Fan(s) not working, Check the fan, relay, fuse and engine temperature sensor's.
Belt driven fan, belt slipping, fan clutch is bad, fan blades have flattened out.

Air dam under front bumper is gone, loose, or broken. It actually has a purpose other than scraping on the driveway or curbs. It forces air up into and thru the condenser and radiator. If it's loose, airflow can actually push it out of place making it useless or blocking the airflow. Along with that, there may also be a plastic piece attached to the bottom of, and wraps up behind the bumper. If it

0helpful
1answer

I have a 1999 Mazda 626 2.0L that is having a overheating problem. I had pulled over and the radiator cap was cold so was the fluid and there doesn't seem to be any loss of water. I changed out the...

Physically look in the radiator under the cap for coolant level, and check the valve in the cap for sticking. If air is present in the radiator it can't get out, and more coolant can't get in,(from the overflow). Either clean the cap or replace it and check that it is the CORRECT cap.
Radiator fins dirty, clean with a strong stream of water, not high pressure water.
Radiator clogged, have it boiled out, or replace.
Thermostat stuck open or shut, replace it.
Water pump worn out, can no longer move enough coolant, replace it.
Fan shroud broken or missing....
Electric Fan(s) not working, Check the fan, relay, fuse and engine temperature sensor's.
Belt driven fan, belt slipping, fan clutch is bad, fan blades have flattened out.

Air dam under front bumper is gone, loose, or broken. It actually has a purpose other than scraping on the driveway or curbs. It forces air up into and thru the condenser and radiator. If it

1helpful
2answers

Why does my cadillac 1998 deville keep overheating?

Overheating can be numerous things: Fans not working, water pump, thermostat, overflow cap, and the list keeps going. When the engine is running and heats ups, feel the heat of the top hose, if the hose isn't hot, the thermostat is most likely stuck open and needs replaced. If it is hot we know you have circulation. The cap on the expansion tank may be defective, if it can't hold the pressure of the water, it will release at the overflow cap if the cap is bad. Also check the coolant level.
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1answer

My 94 mazda 626 lx dumped radiator fluid on the ground i believe that its the water pump but dont know where it is or how to change it

Broken water-pump don't dump water when they are bad. They leak bit-by-bit through their bleed holes. You may have a broken hose. You may test the leaking again with plain water, and while the engine is running open the hood and see where the leak is coming from.
If your water-pump is out, you will have to replace it togethet with the timing-belt. And it would be best to get the Haneys repair manual which is more detailed for this job. The water-pump is bolted to the engine side, protected by black plastic covers.
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