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iulian zamfir Posted on Aug 22, 2014
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Why my front brakes are overheating after I replaced/serviced the rear brakes pads ?

I have replaced rear brake pads and vacum bleeded and then the front brakes start overheating like they are engaged all the time. This year only has a Load Sensing Proportioning Valve (LSPV) witch balancing front/rear brake force acording to vehicle load. The front brake overheating begun after I bleaded that LSPV component. How this LSPV work? Any sugestions?

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robert wales

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  • Mazda Master 4,977 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 22, 2014
robert wales
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Try bleeding the front brakes sometimes the valve will move to one side allowing more pressure to the opposite brake possibly causing this type of problem.

4 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 185 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 23, 2008

SOURCE: rear brake to remove replace disk and service due binding

Preliminaries Do 1 wheel at a time Use a jackstand on the wheel you are working on (safety First) Remove the tire on the selected wheel
The Brake caliper is usually held on by 2 bolts. Some of the bolts are Allen wrench type, usually about ¼ inch or 5/16 inch. Remove and the complete brake caliper can be lifted off the rotor. The pads can now be removed. Before installing the new pads you must first return the pad piston to their original position in the caliper. Open the hood of the engine compartment and remove the cover on the master cylinder. This allow the brake fluid to be returned to the master cylinder. To return the pad piston to the original position you will need a C clamp and a flat piece of metal like a small flat file. Put the flat piece of metal on the piston and use the C clamp to put pressure on the piston. Tighten the C clamp slowly and you will see the piston slowly retract into the caliper body. Now you can insert the new pads into the caliper. Mount the caliper over the rotor and reinstall the 2 bolts.

Loringh Hope this helps Good Luck PS Please leave a rating if Appropriate Thanks

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Anonymous

  • 3 Answers
  • Posted on May 16, 2009

SOURCE: BRAKES ON FRONT 2002 PROTEGE 5 MAZDA

When I change my front brakes, I use a "C" clamp to slowly push the piston back in. (You can get them for a few dollars at Wal-Mart, etc.) Make sure you open the brake fluid reservoir while compressing them, as the fluid level will rise; but don't leave the reservoir open too long, as brake fluid will absorb water from the air.
For the parking brake, I'm not sure. I think the parking brake often works off of the rear brakes, so changing the pads should have helped there. Maybe air in the lines? Do you have any trouble with "soft" or "mushy" brakes when you use them? If so, you might want to bleed the system, to get any air out - it can be dangerous.

roniecon

Ronny Bennett Sr.

  • 6988 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 27, 2010

SOURCE: the rear brakes seem unable to bleed. i think the

You are correct in assuming the proportioning valve,but it may not be bad,if it detects,loss of fluid pressure,it will shut down those brake lines.Try bleeding the master cylinder,then the wheels,and you may have to do it a couple of times,this will allow the proportioning valve allow the wheels with fluid pressure,if this was at all helpful,please rate,thank you,

Any Car Diagnostic Center

  • 274 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 12, 2010

SOURCE: brakes squeaking when pedal lightly

Dear Sir,
Brakes (pads and discs) wear count on your use in millage/km not on time when they replaced, but a year is also good time , it may cause of minor dust inside pads get it clean. it will solve your problem.
Thanks.

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I have a F150 p/u 2000 for 10yrs. Each year I change the brake pads. But the rear pads still looks like new. The front pads are worn down. What can be causing the problem?

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I just replaced both front rotors and pads, along with the driver side caliper. My next step is to now bleed the brakes. my question is do i need to bleed all 4 brakes or just the 1 that was replaced?

you don't need to bleed front brakes if you only did rotors and pads. If you look at the master cylindar, there are 4 lines coming off of it, one for each brake. Only bleed what you replaced.


Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/matthew_d24b835e574ef6ca

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You will need to bleed all four corners, starting at the right rear, then left rear, then right front, then left front. Your bleed procedure always goes from the wheel farthest from the master cylinder, to the closest. By bleeding only the rear brakes, you've gotten air out back there, but not necessarily any air that might have moved farther forward. Bleed your rears again, and then move forward to bleed the fronts, and see if that helps.
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