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Press the "Power" button to turn off your unit and then remove the filter from the filter panel on the side or front of your air conditioner. Refer to your manual if you are unsure where the filter on your unit is located.
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Inspect the filter. If it is dirty, brush off dirt, debris and lint. If it is really dirty, wash it with mild soap and water and allow it to dry completely. Reinsert it into its compartment. If your filter is worn out or damaged, purchase a replacement filter from an appliance or hardware store and replace the old one.Turn on the air conditiner
Check for a reset button on your air conditioner and press it to reset your unit. Some of the newer air conditioners have reset buttons to restore the default factory settings. Press the "Power" button on the front panel of your air conditioner to power down your unit if it does not have a reset button. Unplug the unit from the electrical outlet. Leave the air conditioner off for several hours to see if it will reset.
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Plug your air conditioner back into the electrical outlet and turn it on. If your air conditioner is still displaying the E1 error code, turn it off and contact a qualified technician because the room thermistor response to detecting room tempeture is needs replacement I say I'd loose business but rather clients trust me then go elsewhere recommend me for what you'll pay get a new one if it doesn't work
Normal, the ac heat exchanger condenser need air moving across the fins to remove the heat. While
moving in town the condenser isn't remove the meat that is building up the it's
aluminum fins. Even though the vehicle uses an electric fan. The fan is used to
cool the engine temperature. If you Toyota is equip-ed with automatic
transmission. The electric fan will need to pull enough air to cool the engine
temperature, automatic transmission fluid, air conditioner condenser, and maybe
power steering condenser to cool the power steering fluid. Later model of
vehicles/trucks are using different refrigerants instead R134A in which you
Toyota uses.
The simples way to explain is the ac remove heat from inside your Toyota and this heat is removed by the refrigerants inside your ac in the car. To cool the refrigerant this coolant is removed to the heat exchanger condenser located in front of the engine radiator. So, while moving at 60mph there is enough air flow through the radiator, ac head condenser, and other aluminum heat exchangers. GB...stewbison
SOUND LIKE AC COMPRESSOR SEIZING OR LOCKING UP PUTTING DRAG ON DRIVE BELT SLOWING DOWN POWER STEERING PUMP AND ALTERNATOR.THATS WHY BATTERY LIGHT COMING ON.
this first to do is check wiring to compressor clutch,when ac is not working check the ac clutch it should be engaged,test for power and ground at ac compressor clutch, you may have a bad wire to clutch or a bad compressor clutch,
HI. Here is a complete check list that will help you trouble shot thsi issue. You will find the problem in one or more of these areas stated below.
1. Check Drive Belts - The air conditioner utilizes a drive belt that supplies power to rotate the compressor, which is basically a refrigerant pump. If the belt fails the compressor has nothing to drive it, inspect and replace as needed to restore operation. If belt is intact proceed to the next step.
2. Check for Compressor Clutch Engagement - Turn the air conditioner to the "on" position and set controls to the coldest setting. Start the engine and allow to idle. Then open the hood and inspect the clutch at the front of the compressor, is it turning? "Engaged" if so, the system has enough refrigerant to activate. If the system is low on refrigerant it will not work properly. In this case an air conditioner recharge kit is needed to recharge the system. If the system is low on refrigerant it could cycle on and off, making a ticking noise. If the compressor clutch is not turning proceed to next step.
3. Inspect for Refrigerant Leaks - If the system has a large leak and no refrigerant remains it will not activate. First test system for a static pressure charge, with the engine off attach an ac gauge to the low side pressure port and check the state of charge. Depending on outside temperature there should be between 50 psi and 80 psi. (Cool and warm). A refrigerant leak detector is needed to inspect for leak, but if you do not have a leak detector there is an alternative method. The air conditioner system is designed to run with oil suspended in the refrigerant to lubricate the system. Check for oily residue outside the system by inspecting all hoses, compressor, condenser, evaporator or receiver drier and replace any component that has failed.
4. Inspect Fuses - Check under dash panel and under hood power distribution center. Replace failed fuses as needed, recheck system. If the new fuse fails when reinstalled a short circuit is present and requires diagnosing with a wiring schematic, follow circuits to locate short, repair as needed and recheck system.
5. Check Temperature Control Vents - The vents inside your car are controlled by a cable, electrical servo or vacuum servo. If the temperature blend door is not functioning properly it will cause warm air from the heater to exit the vents. To check this start the car and allow the engine idle, next turn the blower motor speed on low, switch the temperature control from warm to cold while your ear is close to the vents. You should hear the door move inside the heater box as it swings from open to close. If not, insect for a vacuum leak or a shorted motor in the servo, repair the leak or replace the servo motor.
start car.turn on air conditioner high cool .raise hood look to see if the compressor clutch is engaged and running.if yes your ac air door could be stuck closed or the air door vacuum actutator not receiving vacuum.a vacuum line is broken or off. or the control switch bad.that control the AC and heater mode. if compressor clutch is not engagged.check for power at compressor clutch.if yes compressor clutch coil open. or the air conditioner refrigerant R 134 is low take car to a private garage with a good reputation. they wont be expensive as the dealership.have them hook car air conditioner to a manifold gauge set to check your refrigerant low side and high side pressure.
Yes the system can be full of freon and yet not work, the pressure switch could faulty, the expansion valve too could be faulty, he drier receiver too.
On switching 'on' the AC , is the AC compressor workingor rather does it engage?
The AC compressor clutch too could be not functioning.
I guess you have to go step by step to check first if the AC compressor does rotate on switching 'on' the AC.
HI. Here is a complete check list that will help you trouble shot thsi issue. You will find the problem in one or more of these areas stated below.
1. Check Drive Belts - The air conditioner utilizes a drive belt that supplies power to rotate the compressor, which is basically a refrigerant pump. If the belt fails the compressor has nothing to drive it, inspect and replace as needed to restore operation. If belt is intact proceed to the next step.
2. Check for Compressor Clutch Engagement - Turn the air conditioner to the "on" position and set controls to the coldest setting. Start the engine and allow to idle. Then open the hood and inspect the clutch at the front of the compressor, is it turning? "Engaged" if so, the system has enough refrigerant to activate. If the system is low on refrigerant it will not work properly. In this case an air conditioner recharge kit is needed to recharge the system. If the system is low on refrigerant it could cycle on and off, making a ticking noise. If the compressor clutch is not turning proceed to next step.
3. Inspect for Refrigerant Leaks - If the system has a large leak and no refrigerant remains it will not activate. First test system for a static pressure charge, with the engine off attach an ac gauge to the low side pressure port and check the state of charge. Depending on outside temperature there should be between 50 psi and 80 psi. (Cool and warm). A refrigerant leak detector is needed to inspect for leak, but if you do not have a leak detector there is an alternative method. The air conditioner system is designed to run with oil suspended in the refrigerant to lubricate the system. Check for oily residue outside the system by inspecting all hoses, compressor, condenser, evaporator or receiver drier and replace any component that has failed.
4. Inspect Fuses - Check under dash panel and under hood power distribution center. Replace failed fuses as needed, recheck system. If the new fuse fails when reinstalled a short circuit is present and requires diagnosing with a wiring schematic, follow circuits to locate short, repair as needed and recheck system.
5. Check Temperature Control Vents - The vents inside your car are controlled by a cable, electrical servo or vacuum servo. If the temperature blend door is not functioning properly it will cause warm air from the heater to exit the vents. To check this start the car and allow the engine idle, next turn the blower motor speed on low, switch the temperature control from warm to cold while your ear is close to the vents. You should hear the door move inside the heater box as it swings from open to close. If not, insect for a vacuum leak or a shorted motor in the servo, repair the leak or replace the servo motor...
HI. Here is a complete check list that will help you trouble shot this issue. You will find the problem in one or more of these areas stated below.
1. Check Drive Belts - The air conditioner utilizes a drive belt that supplies power to rotate the compressor, which is basically a refrigerant pump. If the belt fails the compressor has nothing to drive it, inspect and replace as needed to restore operation. If belt is intact proceed to the next step.
2. Check for Compressor Clutch Engagement - Turn the air conditioner to the "on" position and set controls to the coldest setting. Start the engine and allow to idle. Then open the hood and inspect the clutch at the front of the compressor, is it turning? "Engaged" if so, the system has enough refrigerant to activate. If the system is low on refrigerant it will not work properly. In this case an air conditioner recharge kit is needed to recharge the system. If the system is low on refrigerant it could cycle on and off, making a ticking noise. If the compressor clutch is not turning proceed to next step.
3. Inspect for Refrigerant Leaks - If the system has a large leak and no refrigerant remains it will not activate. First test system for a static pressure charge, with the engine off attach an ac gauge to the low side pressure port and check the state of charge. Depending on outside temperature there should be between 50 psi and 80 psi. (Cool and warm). A refrigerant leak detector is needed to inspect for leak, but if you do not have a leak detector there is an alternative method. The air conditioner system is designed to run with oil suspended in the refrigerant to lubricate the system. Check for oily residue outside the system by inspecting all hoses, compressor, condenser, evaporator or receiver drier and replace any component that has failed.
4. Inspect Fuses - Check under dash panel and under hood power distribution center. Replace failed fuses as needed, recheck system. If the new fuse fails when reinstalled a short circuit is present and requires diagnosing with a wiring schematic, follow circuits to locate short, repair as needed and recheck system.
5. Check Temperature Control Vents - The vents inside your car are controlled by a cable, electrical servo or vacuum servo. If the temperature blend door is not functioning properly it will cause warm air from the heater to exit the vents. To check this start the car and allow the engine idle, next turn the blower motor speed on low, switch the temperature control from warm to cold while your ear is close to the vents. You should hear the door move inside the heater box as it swings from open to close. If not, insect for a vacuum leak or a shorted motor in the servo, repair the leak or replace the servo motor.
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