BBRAKE LINES IN AND OUT OF THE ABS CONTROLERrake line routing

try youtube for this one ,

get a workshop manual and there will be schematics in the book under brakes.

just go to any auto parts store and ask them to give you a diagram print out they did it for me.

its there you have to look for it with a mirror and a light the nipple that connects the vacuum is just under a bolt to the right of the abs wich barely sticks out of the finder

is it only the rear brakes you cannot bleed or all of them ??

Part you're probably looking for is the ABS pump motor or pump motor relay.
Personally though you'd probably be better off checking the line routing for a non abs vehicle and copying it, eliminating the abs system. (scrapyard is a good place to look for "hard" parts and to actually see how lines run, but do use new lines).
The abs system functions just like "normal" brakes when the pump fails, so, it should be ok to drive it that way unless there is something else wrong (leaks etc)

Turn the ignition key to the "on" position but do not start the engine. Look at the lamps on the instrument cluster, there should be an abs light that shows. You can also open the hood, and follow the brake lines from the master cylinder. If the vehicle has ABS (and it should for that year and model) the lines will route to an ABS controller (which looks like a big metal "block" with a number of brake lines running to it and will probably say ABS on the housing.

I have not heard of an ABS causing these problems. Usually, a loss of pressure is a hole in a brakeline or a bad master cylinder.

The first brakelines to leak on my 1988 Bill Blass where those going under the engine. Check in the frame where the lines are routed from the ABS to the front brakes.

I use a Vacuum Handpump Bleeder. As long as there is fluid in the Master, you should eliminate the air. If you have a leak when you draw down each wheel you may hear a whistling, deflating ballonlike sound of the air draw. My handpump has a gauge which will show a pressure drop.

Or you can go the other direction and disconnect the ABS lines to the wheels. When you draw the vacuum from the closed Calipers, there should be little air in the lines. However, a hole in the line will continue to drop the draw from that particular wheel Caliper. This would prove you have an opening in the line.

To convert an old abs system to a "normal" braking system, Find a similar vehicle in a scrapyard, map out the lines so you know where they go, and then remove the parts. You will need the master cylinder and the proportioning valve (small junction block that the lines from the master go to first) from the donor vehicle.
It's best to use new lines...old rusted ones will often break and are difficult to work with. You should follow factory routing where possible but it doesn't need to be perfect, just stay clear of moving parts, hot maniflold or pipes, and make sure the lines are secure so they don't vibrate or rub against anything (where difficult, I split a rubber hose and secure it to the line to protect it). Use pressure unions not ferrule type splice junctions, and you can carefully coil any line that is a bit too long as long as it does not kink or hang down where it will get caught on anything.
After assembly, bleed the system.
One tip on removing old rusted lines... cut the line with a pair of wire cutters and use a six point socket to remove the fitting. You aren't saving the line so what you do to it does not matter and the six point socket will remove the fitting without rounding it off. Always use flair nut wrenches when installing.

If it's a metal line, Your local auto parts store should be able to order it for you or worst case you'll have to make your own from straight tubbing and a bender. I don't recall ever seeing diagrams for metal lines, usually there pre made to replace the factory one or you can splice a replacement piece in place of a damaged section. AS far as the line goes to the module, try following it up to it with a good flahlight and a sharppe from the rear forward.