Check engine light wont come on

u dont need to replace bulb-its workn--that emplyoyee needs a test---the lite is tellin u there are some codes--go git a scan done at a partplace etc--mite b an 02 sensor or other-----some peopl hav takn the bulb out to cheat-but car wont run------try disconnectn batt n see if the lite clears-cud b just a glitch

okay, this is a 2005 trail blazer with code co063.
i am sorry but the code is no good, co063 or c0063
try to rescan the code or go to an auto part store like an auto zone and they will scan for free otherwise with out a good scan tool the codes are generic and lots of times the codes wont cross to a good code.

The flashing check engine light means there is a serious problem with the performance of the engine. You need to get the computer scanned for trouble codes next.

That's a lot going on! If those are real errors, you could spend some time and money fixing it. May not be too hard, but if you have an electrical gremlin somwe here causing the problem, then that could be a pain to fix.
If clearing the code for inspection is your goal, you could look into an OBD2 bluetooth scanner to work with your phone. I use one along with Torque for Android. I can check and clear codes with my phone, but I do 95% of my maintenance myself.

The inspectors had to remove your fuel cap to inspect it and might have failed to put it back on tight enough. This is a common problem and will cause your "check engine light" to come on. Check the tightness of the cap and then take your car to any major auto parts store and have them read out the stored trouble code that was set when the check engine light came on. They will do this for free. Copy down the code(s) and then have them erased. This will reset the check engine light. Check the code(s) at the store to see if it corresponds to a loose fuel cap. If so, your problem is solved.

If not, you lucked out and passed your inspection just before a problem cropped up! Use the codes you copied down and get code definitions at the auto parts store. This is the place to start for diagnosing the problem.

Hi, the Check Engine light and the cruise light blinking tells you the computer found a problem with your vehicle's running condition but if the vehicle is driving OK, a Check Engine light is not a reason to pull over and get the problem fixed soon. In testing areas, you will fail your emissions test if the Check Engine light is on and fuel economy generally suffers when the Check Engine light is on. When the Check Engine light is on, one or more "trouble code(s)" are stored in the computer and you can read and erase trouble codes using inexpensive code-reader tools from auto-parts stores; the tools are very easy to use. The problems identified by the codes are frequently easy to fix (such as a loose gas cap), but some are complex, requiring professional diagnosis. A trouble code indicates a circuit where the problem was identified, not necessarily the component itself. Diagnosis is often necessary.

there are several reasons why the remote start won't work, and one of them is the presence of a check engine light. Normally a check engine light comes on when a trouble code is present and recorded by the engine control module. Resetting or erasing the codes can only bring temporary relief, like what u said the remote start worked again. But the trouble will still come back until the real cause is being addressed. You got code on the cam sensor, but car runs fine. Its because the engine computer senses inconsistencies while trying to improve the Emissions system of your vehicle. That we cannot see or hear. Most probably your cam sensor or the wirings are getting intermittent. Better have it visually inspected and replaced if necessary.

POSSIBLE CAUSE EVAP CANISTER PURGE VALVE.FAULTY EVAP PRESSURE SENSOR.CHECK ALL EVAP SYSTEM.HOSES AND ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS.

The engine in your car is designed to run smoothly with maximum power output and produce as minimal emissions as possible. When your car's engine is not performing properly it can cause, low gas mileage, low power output, increased emissions and possible internal engine damage if left untreated. This troubleshooting guide is designed to isolate the malfunctioning cylinder and troubleshoot to repair the problem. Before we start we need to know one of two things; is the engine running poorly at idle only and seems to be ok under power? Or does the engine run fine and it's just the engine idle condition that is the problem. If your engine is idling rough please visit, engine misfires at idle If your engine cranks over but won't start visit engine wont start. If your engine won't crank over visit engine wont crank over. If your engine is running rough all of the time or intermittently you are in the right place. Below we have created a guide to aid diagnoses and repair procedure for most common rough engine running problems.

• Step 1: Anytime you have a problem with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, air bag) inspect all fuses in the under hood power distribution center and under dash fuse panels using a test light. If all fuses test ok continue to the next step.
  
• Step 2: To check for problems with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system) and the fuses test ok a trouble code scan is needed to identify any system trouble. Use a simple scanner tool to retrieve trouble codes and check if they relate to the specific problem, like an ignition coil failure code. If a trouble code is present but does not pertain to the immediate problem like an EVAP code ignore it until a later time, after the engine is running properly. The reason we repair non-related codes after the engine is running properly is because sometime false codes can be triggered by a rough running engine. Once the engine is running properly the code present might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine isn't running right shouldn't it have a check engine light and a trouble code?" Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected by the computer, example: if the intake or exhaust valve operation fails the computer cannot detect the failure because the problem is not sensor related, so the engine doesn't run smooth and the computer thinks everything is ok with no codes. If the trouble code retrieved relates to a cylinder misfire like an injector driver or ignition coil failure first repair these problems then re-test system. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.
  

The engine in your car is designed to run smoothly with maximum power output and produce as minimal emissions as possible. When your car's engine is not performing properly it can cause, low gas mileage, low power output, increased emissions and possible internal engine damage if left untreated. This troubleshooting guide is designed to isolate the malfunctioning cylinder and troubleshoot to repair the problem. Before we start we need to know one of two things; is the engine running poorly at idle only and seems to be ok under power? Or does the engine run fine and it's just the engine idle condition that is the problem. If your engine is idling rough please visit, engine misfires at idle If your engine cranks over but won't start visit engine wont start. If your engine won't crank over visit engine wont crank over. If your engine is running rough all of the time or intermittently you are in the right place. Below we have created a guide to aid diagnoses and repair procedure for most common rough engine running problems.
Car Repair Guide - READ COMPLETELY BEFORE BEGINNING

• Step 1: Anytime you have a problem with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, air bag) inspect all fuses in the under hood power distribution center and under dash fuse panels using a test light. If all fuses test ok continue to the next step.
  
• Step 2: To check for problems with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system) and the fuses test ok a trouble code scan is needed to identify any system trouble. Use a simple scanner tool to retrieve trouble codes and check if they relate to the specific problem, like an ignition coil failure code. If a trouble code is present but does not pertain to the immediate problem like an EVAP code ignore it until a later time, after the engine is running properly. The reason we repair non-related codes after the engine is running properly is because sometime false codes can be triggered by a rough running engine. Once the engine is running properly the code present might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine isn't running right shouldn't it have a check engine light and a trouble code?" Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected by the computer, example: if the intake or exhaust valve operation fails the computer cannot detect the failure because the problem is not sensor related, so the engine doesn't run smooth and the computer thinks everything is ok with no codes. If the trouble code retrieved relates to a cylinder misfire like an injector driver or ignition coil failure first repair these problems then re-test system. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.
  
• Step 3: The spark plugs in your engine are used to ignite the compressed fuel air mixture. If the condition of the spark plugs are fouled by excessive fuel or carbon the engine will not start, backfire or run rough. Remove all spark plugs to inspect the condition of the plug. Please use this spark plug condition reference guide to see how the spark plugs are operating.
  
• Step 4: Check for broken or dilapidated vacuum hoses on and around the engine, your car's engine is designed to run on a system that can hold vacuum. Vacuum hoses are typically connected to the engine intake manifold and will supply engine vacuum to various accessories like power brakes. Some cars are designed with a larger vacuum transfer hose like Ford that connects the intake manifold to the IAC (idle air control) motor. A broken or dilapidated vacuum line or air intake boot can cause the engine to lose vacuum which will allow the engine to run rough and die. Inspect all engine and accessory vacuum lines to look for missing, torn or dilapidated lines and replace as needed. Also have a helper rest their foot on the gas pedal just enough to keep the engine running. Check the engine when it is running to listen for any whistling noise coming from the engine that is not usually present. Follow the noise and inspect vacuum lines in that area. Also, when the engine is running it will pull inward a broken or weak piece of the hose to create a larger vacuum leak. Check the integrity of all vacuum hoses at each end of the hose. Typically this is where a vacuum hose fails. If all vacuum hoses check "ok" proceed to the next step.
  

Also check here: http://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough