Engine light is on after replacing radiator fan. jeep liberty

SOURCE: 2003 Jeep Liberty heater fan problem

It is the blower motor resistor. Look under the passanger side dash and locate the fan housing (looks round and black in color. Then locate the resistor it will be in that housing usually withtwo ten millimeter nuts or two simple screws holding it in. unplug the harness to the resistor and remove the resistor. Part store price is approx. 50.00. Note: on aftermarket (not Jeep) resistor sometimes you have to modify the housing a little to get it in. Hope this helps.

SOURCE: how to replace rear brake pads on 2005 jeep liberty

put the back of car on jack stands and secure the front tires so it does not roll and then remove the bolts off the back of the caliper there is normally two one at top and one at bottom and spray it with some kind of oil for rust and make sure you have the right size socket before you try to loosen them and once caliper is off and the old pads removed take one of the old pads and squeeze the piston on the caliper back in by using a "C" clamp and also remove some of the brake fluid from the master cylinder before you do this put the new ones back on and check the brake fluid and make sure it is full and then pump the brakes to make sure you have a good pedal also put some "No Squeak" brake stop on the back of the pads so they don't squeak they will have that where you buy the pads from

SOURCE: How to replace reak brake rotors on Jeep Liberty

Replace rear rotors on 04 liberty.
Remove tire & wheel
Remove brake caliper, tie up out of way.
Back off e-brake shoe adjustment.
Remove factory spring clip from lugs (2places)
This is the crude part....
After attempting to pull off disc/drum with puller....I got pretty sick of it. Understand this is in the Northeast with lots of salt on the roads in winter. Needless to say there is a ridge of rust around the inside edge of the e-brake surface. Any more pressure and I was afraid of damage to the e-brake shoe asembly. I then took a small grinder with a cut off wheel and cut the disc thru (used space where caliper usually sits). Also cut nearly through the face between 2 lugs. You can't quite get thru the back corner at the disc. Since the material is cast iron it will crack when you drive a wedge in the slot cut in the disc. This opens the housing around the shoes and it slides off easily. The cutting operation took less than10 mins, alot less than the puller with hammer assist!
I know this is a bit "unorthodox" to say the least, however the object is to remove the old junk disc safely and as quickly as possible, without harming the e-brake parts inside.
Install new parts in reverse order, new pads go in easy after squeezing the caliper piston back with a c clamp as is the normal procedure.

SOURCE: 2004 jeep liberty thermostat change?

ihave to change my thermostat in my 04 jeep liberty is it hard

SOURCE: Install a 05 Jeep Liberty 3.7 in a 02 Liberty

BEFORE you put the engine in you must convert it with your old engine's crankshaft position ring and it's pick-up sensor. This ring can ONLY be changed with the engine upside down and out of the car. All rods must be disconnected, all mains are part of a cast saddle that must be removed, the front engine covers and all the timing chains must be removed, and finally the crankshaft must be lifted out and the ring must be hammer-unscrewed (impact screw driver, but I forget now if the taper-headed screws are allen, hex, star or phillips). DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME REMOVING THE HEADS. The ring is ENTIRELY different than the one the computer system on the 02 Liberty can recognize (this is what triggers your spark timing). Next is the magnetic pick up 'wheel' located on the front of the passenger's side of the over-head camshaft. This magnetic cup wheel triggers the '02 fuel injection system (don't un-magnetize it). Lastly, the '02 plastic intake manifold (w/ O rings for seals) for the '02 has an additional port, this is an easy swap-out. Mostly there are no gaskets- the finish is so fine they just use a factory sealer (comes in a tube). Buy it, it's cheap enough and it matches the factory's specs. Taking the engine back out/in is NOT fun, but with the engine on a stand, and with no time constraints it's managable (but still not fun). I made that exact engine swap myself and went through a lot of anguish learning all of this. By-the-by, these engines will NOT tolerate dirty oil. DO NOT EVER try and stretch out your oil changes, because they run really hot (due to the windage tray that prevents oil mist from coating the engine's internals) an ash will form and goop up the insides. The fine oil pick-up screen (drilled plate) will always clog up. If it's been a long time since the last change and your engine is still running fine, when you get around to putting in new high detergent oil it sorta un-sludges the goop and REALLY coats the pick-up. DEATH BY SUFFICATION. If you're ever at this point (no damage yet) I would suggest doing the oil change (before there's any knocking or signs the engine is failing) and I would do 2 more oil & filter changes @500 miles each; hopfully you'll dislodge the ash/sludge and get it out of the engine. Once damage has started it progresses very quickly- this engine is not very tolerant. Your oil will be gold color, and yet your enging will sieze because it can't 'get to it'. BEST OF LUCK- this is very do-able, but you might first investigate if you can swap out the engine management computor and wire harness and maybe avoid all of this above mentioned wrenching. No back ground info here, plus I didn't have access to the vehicle the 05 engine was snatched out of- sorry, and good luck again. One last bit of advice- I bought a zero miles engine from a National Highway Admin. crash/test vehicle. When I broke the engine down ALL the timing marks on all three chains were not aligned and had to ALL be set- I guess they might do that to prevent the parts from re-entering the 'system'? Or, some dumb s__t at the factory was new and/or pi__ed-off and this engine was just plopped in the donated/untitled crash vehicle rather than ripping it back apart and re-assembling it. The damn Jeep fired on the second crank and is running fine now (2 years later). Ciao4Now, Brian Fahey