My car started like normal,then I drove to store and when I tried to start my car again it wouldn't start.I waited about 30mins tried again and it started.the next day it started fine but when driving on highway it stalled and wouldnt start again so i sat and waited about45min and tried it and oit started later that night the same thing happened.what could be the cause of this?
SOURCE: 2004 Sonata stalls out for no reason then won't start
hi there, i have a 2003 sonata and my car did the same. it stalled and the engine light stayed on but managed to get going again. i took it to Hyundai and it was the crank angle sensor. it needed replacing at NZD180.00 with 3 hours labour to do it. evidently they remove the front of the engine and cam belt etc. the workshop at Hyundai did it and charged 3 hours, not sure if that was excessive or not.
SOURCE: Car stalled and won't start again
Sounds like it might be either the fuel filter or the fuel pump, cause if you ran the tank down, you probably had sludge in the bottom of the tank that you sucked into the engine, you can try using a fuel system cleaner, you may have sucked sludge into the injectors running it, Zmax sells a fuel system cleaner, or there is one called RUN RIGHT, I would try putting some of that in letting it sit a few min then after it sat a few to soak in and break down the sludge, then start the car up, kick your idle up to around 1500 RPM do not go higher then that cause you will damage the engine, try that and see if that works for you, if not then I is probably the fuel pump or filter.
hope this helps.
SOURCE: santa fe keeps stalling. dealership cant find
Are you one of those people who TOP OFF the tank when filling up?
When the EVAP recovery system soak with few ounce of gasoline......the trap vapor will take few days escape.
EVAP system is design to handle fuel vapor. Few ounce of gasoline
can damage the fuel vapor recovery relay and decrease the service live
of the recovery lines.
=========
You can accelerate the process by locating the charcoal canister (near
the nose of the car and same side as your gas filler door)
MOVE the car to outdoor.
Disconnect the EVAP line and let it air out by itself.
DO NOT introduce any heat source or fan to speed up the process.
Reconnect this EVAP hose and use a small amount of starting fluid at the intake manifold.
Please post more information by Clicking on the comment link.
I will follow up.
SOURCE: Went to advance auto parts
Both fault codes are refer at air intake system; check this information to solve it...
P0103 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) Circuit High Input
Basically this means that there is a problem with the Mass Air Flow High (MAF) sensor or circuit. A more technical description would be that the MAF circuit had higher than expected voltage (air flow). Other MAF sensor circuit DTC trouble codes are P0100, P0101, P0102, and P0104.
Symptoms: You will likely not notice any serious drivability problems, although there may be symptoms such as a general decrease in power or sluggishness.
Causes: A code P0103 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
The MAF may be disconnected, or a wiring connection may be bad
The MAF sensor may be damaged
The vehicle computer may be faulty (very rare)
Possible Solutions: The simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back. Then start with the cheapest, easiest repair procedures:
Verify that the Mass Air Flow Sensor wiring is connected properly and that there are no broken / frayed wires.
Inspect for any air leaks near the MAF sensor.
Take the MAF out and clean it using a spray cleaner such as brake cleaner or electrical contact cleaner. Be gentle with the sensor.
Check the voltage of the MAF sensor (refer to a repair manual for vehicle specific information)
Replace the MAF sensor.
P0113 - Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input
The powertrain control module (PCM) monitors the temperature of the air entering the engine. The PCM supplies a 5 volt reference voltage to the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor. The IAT is a thermistor that varies resistance based on temperature. As the temperature increases, resistance decreases. Low temperature results in a high signal voltage. When the PCM sees a signal voltage higher than 5 volts, it sets this P0113 check engine light code.
Potential Symptoms: There will likely be no symptoms other than illumination of the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL - Check Engine Light / Service Engine Soon).
Causes: A code P0113 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
Internally failed IAT sensor
Faulty connection at IAT sensor
Open in IAT ground circuit or signal circuit
Short to voltage in IAT signal circuit or reference circuit
IAT harness and/or wiring routed too close to high-voltage wiring (e.g. alternator, spark plug cables, etc.)
Faulty PCM (less likely but not impossible)
Possible Solutions: First, if you have access to a scan tool, is there an IAT reading? If the IAT reading is logical then the problem is likely intermittent. If the reading is less than -30 degrees, unplug the connector. Install a jumper wire between the harness connector signal and ground circuits. The IAT temperature reading on the scan tool should be maxed out at the high end. For example it should be 280 degrees Farenheit or higher. If it is, the wiring is okay, and it may have been the connection. If it isn't install the jumper wire between the IAT signal circuit and the chassis ground.
If now the IAT reading on the scan tool is maxed out then check for an open in the IAT ground circuit. If you get no reading at all on the scan tool, it's likely that the sensor signal is open or the 5 volt reference is missing. Check using a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) for a 5 volt reference. If it's there, then unplug the connector at the PCM and check for continuity on the IAT signal circuit between the PCM connector and the IAT connector.
Other IAT sensor and circuit related DTCs: P0095, P0096, P0097, P0098, P0099, P0109, P0110, P0111, P0112, P0114
Check it, test it and keep us updated.
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