There is an intermittent noise from a valve on the Cylinder head close the timing belt

If the engine is an interference type (most are these days) there will almost certainly be a few bent valves when the timing belt breaks and possibly worse damage. Once you have verified the problem and gone as far as you can towards locating and diagnosing the likely faults the cylinder head will have to be replaced for further examination.

There should be no need to manually identify tdc of the timing cylinder (usually at the timing belt end but not always) as the manufacturer usually provides accurate timing marks. I would guess you need to read a bit about engines in general and about your engine specifically.

Good luck!

The Kia engine has two overhead camshafts that have to be properly aligned when installing the cylinder head. If you didn't get the timing marks on the cam pulleys as well as the crankshaft pulley lined up the valves will hit the pistons the first time you crank it over. If the valves hit the pistons, they will bend and no longer seal [no compression]. For instance, if the timing belt breaks while the engine is running here is a picture of the result [also no compression]:

From the next picture you can see how close the valves are to the pistons:
The video is from a very similar engine


This forum post is worth reading completely:
KIA Spectra 06 Timing belt cylinder head replacement pics tips Kia Forum

Is number 1 on tdcc or tdci? It should be tdcc with both number one cylinder valves closed as they would be on number one tdcc. I have no idea why you would be rocking number 5 cylinder valves with number one on tdcc or otherwise. The valve and ignition timing needs to be set correct on number one tdcc and then all others will fall into their correct timing also.

If it's a "clicking" sound, (metallic) that's usually bad. If it's less of a pronounced sound, it (could be) a valve sticking but that's being pretty optimistic.

take it to a mechanic?
inspect the belt. its bad.
the FSM covers the steps.
in USA we have alldata.com to do same, step by step.

This has to be because of a mechanical problem in the engine. Possible sources are the timing belt is broken (one indication is the starter spins the engine faster than normal, because the camshaft that opens and closes valves is not turning with the crankshaft), or the head gasket has failed (from overheating as the most likely cause), or badly worn piston rings and/or valves not sealing well (common on high mileage engines).
Compression is built up in the upper part of the cylinder where combustion occurs, so leaks or lost compression are due to valves not sealing, or head gasket that seals the cylinder head to the engine block-sometimes the aluminum cylinder head can warp due to overheating, and the head gasket no longer can maintain a seal. Or also the piston rings are worn so bad that compression will leak past them into the crankcase. For valves or head gasket, the cylinder head has to be removed and repaired. For the rings, the engine has to be rebuilt entirely.
First check if the timing belt is still intact.
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Hi Robert, It would help to know what engine is in your vehicle? A rule of thumb way to set up the valve timing is as follows. Rotate the crank shaft until the crank shaft mark is about 90 degrees from TDC. This will protect the valves from damage when rotating the cams to align them. With the tappet cover removed rotate the cam shaft or shafts so that the number one cylinder is on compression (both inlet and exhaust valves fully closed) and the last cylinder in line on overlap, Look for adjacent timing marks on the cam gears and somewhere close to those look for the alignment marks (maybe notch marks, holes or indented match marks). (Some manufactures use the machined gasket surface where the tappet cover closes onto the cylinder head). Look closely for the static mark on the cylinder head and align the cam(s) to it or them. Once completed, set the crank at Top Dead Center and look carefully for a timing mark which aligns with the gear and set them. Fit the belt so the marks align when the tensioner bearing is released and presses the belt under load. (follow the manufactures recommended tightening instructions.) . (Remember never to crimp a timing belt, if it has been, throw it away and get another, even if it is new!) If the belt snapped and that is the reason for replacement, internal damage may have resulted inside the engine. A snapped belt may cause damage to the valves, the camshafts, the cam shaft caps and to the pistons. If the engine turns much faster than expected and sounds as if there is no compression, you have problems! (Those I've just mentioned. I hope not for your sake. best of luck Regards John

DON'T KNOW HOW MANY MILES BUT CRYSLER PRODUCT ARE KNOWN FOR BENDING THE VALVES
WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS, YOU WON'T KNOW HOW BAD THE DAMAGE IS UNTILL YOU PULL THE HEADS. NEW VALVES AND CHECKING THE HEAD COULD RUN UP AROUND 800 DOLLARS WITH OUT REPLACING THE HEAD. A NEW HEAD COMPLETE 1,700 DOLLARS THESE ARE JUST ESTIMENTS NOT A GOOD SIGN, I'LL LET YOU MAKE THE CALL 2,000 REPAIR VERSES 20,00 NEW CAR

Here at my repair shop have never had to replace a cylinder head, due to timing belt failure, just replace bent valve's and machine head.

OK!... did you do a cylinder 'leak down test'?.. .if not, do it! If any 'unacceptable' leakage, have the head REDONE! NOW!.. you must BE SURE the valve timing is accurate!... Go to www.hmaservice.com and register( Vehicle by VIN). Afterward, you have access to shop manuals, service bulletins, wiring diagrams, etc. about your vehicle.