TACHO IS FALTY /INOPERATIVE . CLUSTER NEEDS TO BE REMOVED
SOURCE: Instrument cluster stops working when hot
I will take a stab at this.
Have you checked to make sure that the fan switch is not bad?
Are you stating that the fan works normally, but when your engine gets hot the fan stops?
I would do what I have always done in this situation. Find a hot wire under the hood that is hot when the key is switched on. Run the fan to that wire. Then when the car is on, the fan will work. An electric fan is a pain in the but. They do this a lot. You can buy a new fan motor switch or take my way that I always solve this problem.
I can't remember if that is front wheel drive or not. If there is any way to take the fan off and replace it with a flex fan, you can do that. This will never stop working unless your engine stops working. This works great if you have a rear wheel drive car. I do not know what that car is.
Have you checked your thermostat? This could be a sensor going bad. Either way, I would change the thermostat, because if you have never changed it, you will be better of knowing that the thermostat is new.
I do not know if you liked my answer or not. but I explained what I do for this problem. My father was a mechanic for 40 years before his death and I worked in the garage from 8 years up til his death. I do all of my mechanic work if at all possible within my limits. I know for a fact that this way will not let you down unless the fan decides not to work one day. I have not seen that happen yet.
I hope that this fixes your problem. Rate this as a fix if you are happy with the answer. If you have more concern or questions, feel free to ask me more. I am here to help any way that I can.
SOURCE: 1995 Neon Instrument Cluster Wiring Diagram
are you talking about the wires that connect the car harness to the gauge cluster with the 2 big plugs?
SOURCE: INSTRUMENT CLUSTER
The red electrial connector on the main circuit board (of instrument cluster panel) has one and/or several soldered pins that have broken away or become loose at the soldered area. The soldered connections may look o.k., however, under a magnifying glass you can see a circular crack all around the protruding soldered pin. Fire up the soldering iron- use a fine point, add a tad of new rosin core solder and fix the crack. There may be trouble codes associated with this condition: P1695 and/or P1698; when you go to pull the Instument cluster out of the dash, jiggle to wire connector at the back of the IC with key 'on', and look at the odometer; if it flashes on/off, this is most likely the problem
SOURCE: Intermittant instrument cluster
HIT THE DASH! The instrument clusters (gauges) have bad soldering joints. You can hit the dash above the cluster to jar it to connect. A hard hit. Many have this problem, and you are better off taking your instrument cluster out and soldering the connector pins on the back then purchasing a new one or taking from the junkyard. They are all the same, and fail with time if left unsoldered.
SOURCE: Need to replace instrument cluster/AC bulbs
Hello, You can obtain a 2004 Ram Factory Service Manual with all of that information available from Promanuals.net. The reason why it may be so important is because right before the removal instructions the service manual has diagnostic instructions to try. There are numerous pages on removing the instrument cluster, and cluster bezel.
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable. (For Airbag)
(2) Remove the cluster bezel from the instrument
panel. (Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/
CLUSTER BEZEL - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the four screws that secure the instrument
cluster to the instrument panel structural support
(Fig. 5).
(4) Pull the instrument cluster rearward far
enough to access and disconnect the instrument
panel wire harness connectors for the cluster from
the connector receptacles on the back of the cluster
housing.
(5) Remove the instrument cluster from the instrument
panel.
83 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×