Cluster not working

best is tell all that works and does no work, engine and all this endlessly electric on this car. all matter for faster diagnosis.

so car starts and runs ok> no told good things. and matters huge.

1. engine running, and gen/charge/battery lamp out????
2. check engine lamp out running.??
3. check fuses first.
4. scan he car next using oBD2 scan tool is next.

what means dash light, of vast and cluster. (cluster dead?)
odom dead , gauges dead, keyon check cluster error lamps dead?

parks dead 4 corners
turns dead 4 corners.
all head lamps dead, high and low beam and FLASH mode.
hazard lamps dead all 4 corners.
details matter.
ok brake lamps good rear, 1 good thing.
answering for USA only cars me. ok?

fix bad head lamps first as those work key on or OFF or missing. it is the simple path so most times fixing this gets the rest. see?
I have the schematic up for your car NOW 14 pages deep
buy the service manual>?

the MTIP brain runs all this.
there are no fuses for any of those lamps, the THE MTIP HAS DIRECT DRIVE REGULATORS TO DO ALL THAT.
YOU HAVE 1 OF 2 PROBLEMS on THIS CAR
FUSES BLOWN TO THE MTIP
OR sCANS SHOW COMMUNICATIONS ERRORS TO THE MTIP
OR FROM THINGS THAT HAVE SWITCHES LIKE THE CLUSTER HAS.

KEEP IN MIND, I SAID ENGINE RUNS AND ALL ELSE. DOES BUT YOUR SHORT LIST.
WE CALL THAT THE BODY BRAIN IS DEAD.
it can not do its job and most or all body parts, lamps, etc.
wise is check all fuses first
then scan it ,USA OBD2 scan tools 2008 tool or newer
yes older cars the MTIP can get wet rust up and fail.
but i look at that and all fuses to in and in it.
good fuses
no comm errors seen scanned on CANBUS network

let me say this about comms
you turn a switch and it is wired to the key brain or cluster brain
and that brain tells the MTIP to turn on a LAMP say PARK
and if comms fail now , all this is Impossible to know
lacking a SCAN TOOL
B16xx errors from the tool>? means PARK failed. (lamps on)
I will not read all 50 pages of schematics to hone in on cause.
example
key off
battery reads 12.6vdc rested, never 10v or less ever.
turn on parks
if parks dead, 4 corners and sides and license plate lamps
the MTIP just failed.
scan the car, if comms failed (but scans do work)
the problem is way more serious. can bus errors are not allowed.
most switches here wire director to the cluster brain
the cluster must not be dead. and it sends data(network) to the MTIP and it turns on say park lamps, direct driven
too 20mins online to get the cluster brain schematic up.20 pages just it.
ok that is all and USA cars, only ,me.
PARKS WORK KEY OFF TOO AND BATTERY MUST BE OVER 10V.
12.6VDC GOOD KEY OFF.

If the tail lights, low fuel light, temperature gauge, and fuel gauge are not working, there could be several possible causes:

1. Blown Fuses: Check the fuses for the tail lights, low fuel light, temperature gauge, and fuel gauge. If any of these fuses are blown, replace them with a new one.
2. Loose or damaged wiring: Inspect the wiring for the tail lights, low fuel light, temperature gauge, and fuel gauge. Look for any loose connections or damaged wires. Repair or replace any damaged wires and ensure all connections are tight.
3. Faulty sending units: The low fuel light and fuel gauge are connected to the fuel sending unit in the gas tank. The temperature gauge is connected to a temperature sending unit on the engine. Check these sending units for faults, and replace them if necessary.
4. Faulty instrument cluster: The instrument cluster itself could be faulty, causing the temperature and fuel gauges to not work. A qualified mechanic can test the instrument cluster to see if this is the issue.

It's also possible that the trike has a separate electrical system for the tail lights, and that this system is malfunctioning. A qualified mechanic can test the trike's electrical system to determine the cause of the issue.

ever see this lamp work correctly , or bought car like this ? (history matters and hacks too)
read the SM here.
https://eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp
self test cluster brake lamp is dead.(went off)
first i must learn if brake lamp is ABS lamp.
as I can not see the dead actual lamp here blind.
yes one is labeled ABS and one is labeled BRAKE
the users guide states
"Also quote
illuminates if the parking brake is engaged. If brake
warning lamp does not illuminate at these times,
seek service immediately. Illumination after releasing
the parking brake indicates low brake fluid level and
the brake system should be inspected immediately.
so why would self test fail??



well check all FUSES FIRST? skip none,
the only confusion with clusters is evolution! 3 generations if it.
new cars the cluster is all electronic,and all actions are from the CPU in the cluster and the CAN-BUS network data to it.
so we use OBD2 scan tool at the OBD2 port.
BUT ? then older cars for sure 2000 year.
are 1/2 and digital and 1/2 wired analog devices.

for sure error lamps (warn) to oil sender or to hand brake or to the brake fluid low switch.

the lamps on the rear twist out. why not just swap 2 lamps side to side, to prove it good or buy new lamp.
some lamps (gee 23 years) old can be for sure intermittent. (micro cracks in the tungsten element happens easy for sure car bouncing,(for 100 years)
or some one put in WRONG LED LAMPS here.
or lamp in socket was twisted and bulb wrecked.
or windshield crack allowed water to hit cluster
and socks there, are rusty (corrosion) seen this vast times or PCB board in side again micro-cracks in solder joints. for same reasons, vibration driving.

looking at your cluster for sale (googled)
this cluster is 1/2 digital and analog
2 huge connectors and lots of wires. 8 pin and 16pin?
i will find a schematic later for this cluster.
to see what is there.
the link above will take you (paid) to the SM
and chapter on electrics + cluster,= BINGO

good lock finding cause.
use a new lamp or do swaps side to side from lamps working now. is best.
look at lamp socket for corrosion.

The instrument cluster (10849) carries out a display proveout to verify that all warning/indicator lamps and monitored systems are functioning correctly. When the ignition switch (11572) is in the ON position with the engine (6007) off, the following indicators will illuminate:

• CHECK ENGINE/malfunction indicator lamp (MIL).
• CHECK GAGE warning indicator.
• Charge system warning indicator.
• Anti-lock brake warning indicator (ABS).
• Safety belt warning indicator (60second proveout).
• Air bag indicator.

• An indicator is inoperative - CHECK ENGINE/malfunction indicator lamp (MIL)

• Bulb.
• Circuitry.
• Instrument cluster printed circuit.
• Powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650).

• GO to Pinpoint Test N .

Hi Andrew,on your brake pedal is a brake stop switch attached to it,look at it and push in with your hand to see if it's working,may have came loose or is bad.

check to see if it will go into 4x4. if not, than yo have issue with abs system or one of the hubs in the front. if front hub fails, which the abs sensor is build or attached to it when you buy a new one, than your 4x4 will not engage. sounds like you have abs issue. also check your brake fluid level. make sure its not low.if so , add a bit.

It's not high and low beam, it's the dash lights that are dim. I've hooked up many aftermarket radios but never knew it was a no no to hook up the dimmer/illumination orange wires in a '01 civic. I googled it and seen many others with similar issues like mine but nothing exactly like the issue I have.

All the dash lights work, they are dim though. The radio lights work but they are even more dim than the rest of the dash lights. I have check every single fuse under the dash and in the engine bay. The dim controller does not work at all now. I'm guessing that's the issue and from what I read, the dimmers circuit board is in the instrument cluster. Some can fix it, others can't.


I will probably end up buying a used instrument cluster off of ebay, they are not expensive. Hopefully that fixes it since everything else works.


Oh, yes, the brake lights work.


Ted, I think you answered the wrong question...I mentioned nothing about the battery or the low/hi beams

the cluster is bad and shorting out

Should be to the right of the oil pressure gauge and engine temp gauge on the cluster. The indicator lamps are stacked and should be 4x4 Hi and 4x4 Low.
Page 12 of your owners manual

If you did not get an owners manual with your truck ( purchased used ), you can download one from Ford :
https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/owners_manuals/default.asp

check that the cluster is in the dash properly as sometimes the cluster shakes loose & the pindrag on the back of the cluster is loose.

Good luck