The harmonic balancer on these engines is now press fit onto the crankshaft and requires the use of Tool J-38197 for removal. The torque specification to be used during installation has also been revised. The procedure to be used when replacing the crank sensor is as follows:
REMOVAL
Disconnect serpentine belt from crankshaft pulley.
Raise vehicle on hoist.
Remove right front tire and wheel assembly.
Remove right inner fender access cover.
Using 28 mm socket, remove crankshaft harmonic balancer retaining bolt.
Remove crankshaft harmonic balancer using Tool (J-38197).
Remove foreign object deflector (DO NOT use pry bar).
Disconnect sensor electrical connector.
Remove sensor and pedestal from block face.
Remove sensor from pedestal
INSTALLATION
Loosely install crankshaft sensor on pedestal.
Position sensor with pedestal attached on Tool J-37089.
Position tool on crankshaft.
Install bolts to hold pedestal to block face, torque to (18-26 lb. ft.).
Torque pedestal pinch bolt to (26-44 lbs. in.).
Remove Tool J-37089.
Install foreign object deflector.
Place Tool J-37089 on harmonic balancer and turn. If any vane of the harmonic balancer touches the tool, replace the balancer assembly.
Install balancer on crankshaft.
Apply thread sealer GM #(NNN) NNN-NNNNor equivalent to threads of crankshaft balancer bolt. Torque bolt to + 56 degrees (104 lb. ft. + 56 degrees).
Install inner fender shield.
Install tire and wheel assembly. Torque lug nuts to (104 lb. ft.).
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most crankshaft pulleys ( harmonic balancer ) are keyed onto the shaft and held there with a bolt
in that case the timing mark will always be in the right place
otherwise set the no 1 piston on tdc (remove no 1 spark plug and with a bit of light gauge wire move the crank until the piston comes up and then starts to go back down)
the mark on the balancer should be at the tdc mark on the timing case cover
1) You won't find a fuel pump pulley. They're electric. 2) The top pulley has nothing to do with valves. 3) You really should just be able to see the crank pulley.
When you get the front/timing cover off, you'll see a chain / belt attaching two sprockets. You should get a haynes guide for timing your car - if you're off one degree you could cause catastrophic engine failure. There are specific procedures and special tools to ensure that the timing is properly set. Invest in them!
Not easy but if you have a understanding of reading the haynes manual for this car it will tell you how to do it. I had to replace the water pump and the timming belt had to be removed. I did it for the first time ever by myself i remember couting the exact number of belt notches on the left and right side of the center crankpully notch , crank pully and right and left cams must be at top dead center. Belt only cost about $35.00.
By-the-way, the ODD cylinders 1-3-5 are on the side of the engine closest to the firewall, with the number one cylinder closest to the passenger side of the vehicle and the number 5 cylinder closest to the driver's side. Obviously, the EVEN cylinders 2-4-6 are on the side of the engine closest to the front of the vehicle with the number 2 cylinder closest to the passenger side, and the number 6 cylinder closest to the driver's side.
the water pump should be located front right of motor the only thing that may take some time is if the belt needs to be replaced some models require you remove part of the engine mount. Job should take a pump / belt if damaged / antifreeze.
remove the crankshaft,make sure that the plugs are removed ,line up the timming marks on tdc,(top dead center) remove alternator belt.remove all the plastic covers check the move ment in the water pump and the cam belt tennsioner if it has one as the water pump does the same job.
remove all old bits of the old belt.
alignment of the cam shaft(s) with a dot and arrow on them both.rebuild with a new toyota or gates belt.when all back in place turn the engine by hand ,there should be no tight spots.then fit crankpully.
i took the car into Winner ford to see if it was the lower control arm bushing again. i also had the oil changed and part of the oil change service includes the lube service, of which the steering stop bushings were lubed. the noise is gone. i have had the lower control arm replaced once (car had only 1500 miles, now 3300) it had sounded like an old man with arthritus!
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