I have a 2005 Sierra 1500. I have had a few problems pop up. 1st is a problem filling the tank with gas, I have to go extremely slow or it wont take the gas. I had an P0446 code. I replaced the EVAP selinoid after doing some research, didn't help. Next my ABS system started kicking in just before coming to a stop (around 5 MPH) it was time for new brakes anyways so while at it I replaced the ABS speed sensors. Now my ABS light is on (appears as thou the ABS is not working at all - even thou my brakes work great)... Could these issues be related? Could it be an electrical grounding issue? Do they share a common ground and if so where is it?

SOURCE: We changed the brakes, routers and bearings on my

On the Fords, the most likely problem is the rear ABS sensor in the rear end. With out paying the $75 to be sure though it is just an educated guess.

SOURCE: abs kicks in when you come to a stop, under 10 mph, slow speed.

needs an abs module... pretty common deal but not a cheap fix... try junkyard

SOURCE: P0573 code on a 2005 Dodge ram hemi, replace speed

P0573 is for your brake switch stuck. It means you either have a bad brake switch, or a bad wire.

SOURCE: Pontiac G6 ABS Problem

when the ABS light comes on you will not hear or feel anything cause soon as the ABS light comes on the ABS is disabled
sounds like it is weather related (rain,snow)
i would check both rear wheel speed sensor harnesses for water intrusion if you see any corrosion (green) on the terminals replace both the hub and harness
if there is no corrosion then check resistance of the sensor also check for a short to ground
if that is ok then put some dielectric lube on the wheel speed sensor terminals and clear the codes and see what happens
intermittent problems can be hard to find
hope this helps

Jeffrey Turcotte

• 8991 Answers
• Posted on Nov 20, 2010

SOURCE: Hi I have a 98 gmc sierra 1500 with 5.7 vortec,

It's hard to find these small leaks. If you have a vacuum pump, there are a few tests you can run on the components of the system. See below.

TESTING

Vapor Canister
See Figure 1

1. Apply a length of hose to the lower tube of the purge valve assembly and attempt to blow air through it. There should be little or no air should passing into the canister.

1. Using a hand-held vacuum pump, apply a vacuum of 15 in. Hg (51 kPa) to the control vacuum (upper) tube. If the vacuum does not hold for at least 20 seconds, the diaphragm is leaking. Replace the canister.
2. If the diaphragm holds vacuum, attempt to blow air through the hose connected to the PCV tube while vacuum is still being applied. An increase of air should be observed. If no increase is noted, the canister must be replaced.

Fig. Fig. 1: Cross-section of the vapor canister


Fuel Tank Pressure Control Valve

1. Attach a length of hose to the tank side of the valve assembly and try to blow air through it. Little or no air should pass into the canister.
2. Using a hand-held vacuum pump, apply vacuum equivalent to 15 in. Hg (51 kPa) to the control vacuum tube. If the diaphragm does not hold vacuum, the diaphragm is leaking. Replace the valve.
3. If the diaphragm holds vacuum, attempt to blow air through the hose connected to the valve while vacuum is still being applied. Air should pass. If no air is noted, the valve must be replaced.

1. With engine temperature below 100°F (38°C), apply vacuum to the manifold side of the switch. The switch should hold vacuum.
2. Start and continue to run the engine until the engine temperature increases above 122°F (50°C). The vacuum should drop off.
3. Replace the switch if it fails either test.