I have an l200 and I want to top up the gear box oil how do I do this and is it an easy job

I would suspect the ignition starter switch is defective. it under the cover on the steering column and easily replaced.

for the full steps then get a workshop manual as there are some details that will be missed . Basically it is Remove the battery terminal. remove the rear drive shaft ( front also if 4wd). Remove the gear lever at the tower bolts on the gear box. Drain the gear box or be prepaired for the gear oil to run out the end of the transmission when you pull the box. . Place a bottle jack under the sump at the rear of the engine . Place a trolley jack under the gear box. undo the rear transmission mount cross member Undo all the bell housing bolts. lower the jack and the trolley jack and pull the gear box back. Undo the bolts holding the pressure plate on the flywheel a bit each at a time as you go around the plate . Remove the plate and the clutch plate ( be aware that the clutch plate will only go back in one way so watch the way the clutch hub was facing. Remove and replace the bearing in the back of the crank shaft. clean up the flywheel face ( good idea for a good non shudder job is to have the flywheel re-machined ) fit the clutch plate the right way and fit the pressure plate . Use a clutch aligner tool as it will be impossible to fit the gear box with out it. Replace the clutch throw out bearing. Now re install using the reverse processes As I said a manual shows it all

THE TOP GEAR THERE A MARK IT'S EASY TO SEE IT HAS TO BE FACING THE BOTTOM GEAR AND THE BOTTOM GEAR THERE IS A MARK ON IT BUT BOTH MARKS HAS TO BE LINED UP

hi check and clean the MS air flow sensor, also the gear box needs a service every 2 years. now the service technician will tell you major gear box problems but it happened to me aswell and it turns out the valves inside the gear box was sticking to the valve body and causing the gears to stay in a specific gear till it reaches the rev limiter and would change. so after i got the oil and filter changed on my box, it still got stuck but dont worry as thats a common problem with a very easy solution, take the car on a long road and really put your foot down, let the engine and gear box temperature rise from hard driving and the valves should release itself from the body of the box and re-lubricate itself not to get stuck again

Sir ,
Kindly tell us whether your engine starts up properly to idle . If yes , then your problem is with the transmission system or with the clutch plates . If the clutch plates are too empty , the gear would be almost stuck . If the car is in N-neutral , try pushing it and while moving slightly try to change the gear . Engine oil and transmission oil should be checked up regularly .
At present situation you will have to have your gear system unjammed or opened up by a professional and have your gear box replaced or checked for jammed gears which is pretty time consuming and difficult job . Else you will have to replace the clutch plates and youre ready to fly again .
Thanking you , Dixon Dominic

HI! FIRST OF ALL MAKE SURE ALL UR TOOLS R IN GOOD SAFE WORKING CONDITION,ESPECIALLY UR JACK & STANDS, ( CHECK LOAD RATINGS OF JACK & STANDS)OTHERWISE U COULD END UP DEAD OR WITH VERY SERIOUS BODY INJURIES. PARK THE VEHICLE ON A HARD FLAT LEVEL SURFACE ,DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY POST TERMINAL. JACK UP THE VEHICLE TO DESIRED COMFORTABLE HEIGHT ALLOW EASY ACCESS TO VEHICLE UNDER CARRAGE, FRONT UP ,THEN PLACE 2 STANDS, THEN JACK UP THE REAR END ,PLACE 2 STANDS & PUT 4 STANDS UNDER THE VEHCILE, PREF SUB FRAME & OR CHASI RAIL NEAR EACH WHEEL OF THE VEHICLE ,THEN LET THE JACK DOWN SO THE VEHICLE IS RESTING ON ALL 4 STANDS,MAKE SURE THE HAND BRAKE IS OFF & THE VEHICLE IN NEUTRAL GEAR. U WILL NEED A CREEPER WITH CASTOR WHEELS ON IT TO ALLOW MOBILITY WHILST WORKING UNDER THE VEHICLE TO LAY ON .IF U CAN GET SOMEONE TO HELP U GREAT , THE MORE PEOPLE THATS EVEN BETTER AS GEAR BOXES/TRANSFER CASES R BLOODY VERY HEAVY. U WILL NEED TO DISCONNECT THE GEAR LINKAGES FROM THE GEAR BOX, SOME VEHICLES U CAN DO THAT FROM UNDERNEITH,OTHER VEHICLES U MAY HAVE TO REMOVE THE CENTRE CONSOLE IN THE CABIN TO ACCESS THE GEAR STICK BASE PLATE BOLTS, LOOSEN/REMOVE BOLTS & GEAR STICK, IF THERE IS ANOTHER GEAR STICK THERE FOR THE 4WD SELECTION DO THE SAME FOR THAT AS WELL.REMOVE THE FRONT & REAR DRIVE SHAFTS(PROP SHAFTS) , IF U DONT HAVE PLASTIC BUNGS TO SLIDE INTO THE GEARBOX & TRANSFER CASE WHERE THE SHAFTS CAME OUT, DRAIN BOTH THE GEAR BOX & TRANSFER CASE OILS OTHERWISE U WILL BE COVERED IN OIL WHEN REMOVING THE GEARBOX/TRANSFER CASE. THERE WILL BE A DRAIN PLUG IN THE BOTTOM OF THE GEARBOX & TRANSFER CASE. DISCONNECT & WIRING TO GEAR BOX/TRANSFER CASE & STARTER MOTOR TO ALLOW REMOVAL WITHOUT BREAKING ANY WIRES. PLACE A JACK UNDER THE END OF THE BOX TO SUPPORT IT, THEN REMOVE THE REAR SUPPORT MOUNT. LOWER THE JACK SLIGHTLY TO ALLOW EASY ACCESS/REMOVAL OF ALL BELL HOUSING BOLTS INCLUDING THE 2 STARTER MOTOR BOLTS. IF U DONT HAVE AIR TOOLS U MAY FIND THE BELL HOUSING BOLTS VERY HARD TO UNDO BY HAND, MAKE SURE THAT U HAVE A BREAKER BAR & LONG EXTENTSION,USE HALF INCH DRIVE SOCKETS,EXTENTSIONS ETC...WHEN THE BELL HOUSING BOLTS R REMOVED .IF U HAVE A GEAR BOX REMOVAL JACK THAT WOULD BE GREAT, IF U DONT ITS QUITE DANGEROUS, U WILL NEED ANOTHER JACK PLACED UNDER THE MID SECTION OF THE BOX, ITS LONG & HEAVY, U WILL HAVE TO "BALANCE THE WHOLE BOX", BE BLOODY CAREFUL THE BOX DOES NOT ROLL OVER ON TOP OF U OTHERWISE U WILL END UP WITH SERIOUS INJURY. IF THE BOX ROLLS OVER DONT TRY & STOP IT ,JUST GET OF THE WAY REAL FAST & WORRY ABOUT THE REST LATER & LONG AS U R SAFE.ONCE THE BOX IS REMOVED, UNDO ALL THE BOLTS THAT HOLD THE PRESSURE PLATE ONTO THE FLY WHEEL. REMOVE THE PRESSURE PLATE & CLUTCH PLATE , U WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE FLY WHEEL BOLTS TOO , WHICH WILL BE VERY HARD WITHOUT A PROPER COMPRESSOR & AIR TOOLS AS THEY R ALL TIGHTENED IN THE FACTORY BY AIR TOOLS OR ROBOTICS.TAKE THE FLY WHEEL TO A MACHINE SHOP & GET IT RESURFACE GROUND TO REMOVE ALL THE HOT SPOTS,CRACKS & SURFACE DISTORTIONS/IRREGULARITIES, OTHERWISE U MAY END UP WITH CLUTCH SHUDDER ON TAKE OFF , THIS IS SOMETIMES CAUSED BY NOT MACHINING THE FLYWHEEL. REFIT THE FLY WHEEL ,LOCK TITE ALL THE BOLTS & RETIGHTEN TO CORRECT TORQUE SPECS, OR A QUICK BLAST WITH AN HALF INCH DRIVE IMPACT GUN, NOT TOO MUCH OTHERWISE U MAY BREAK THE BOLTS.REFIT THE NEW CLUTCH & PRESSURE PLATE ,THE CLUTCH SANDWICHED IN BETWEEN THE PRESSURE PLATE & FLY WHEEL,SECURE THE PRESSURE PLATE TO THE FLY WHEEL,WITH ALL THE BOLTS, DONT TIGHTEN YET AS U HAVE TO CENTRALISE THE CLUTCH PLATE FIRST, FAILING TO DO THIS, U WILL NEVER GET THE BOX IN AGAIN.U HAVE TO USE A CLUTCH CENTRALISING TOOL ,READ THE INSTRUCTION WITH THE TOOL. ONCE THE CLUTCH PLATE IS CENTRAL U MAY GO AHEAD & TIGHTEN ALL THE PRESSURE PLATE BOLTS. 1ST NOTATION,# WHEN TIGHTENING FLY WHEEL & PRESSURE PLATE BOLTS,TIGHTEN IN A CRISS CROSS PATTERN, THINK OF A CLOCK FACE, TIGHTEN 12 OCLOCK, THEN 6 OCLOCK, THEN 3 OCLOCK, THEN 9 OCLOCK ETC...TILL ALL BOLTS R TIGHT.2ND NOTATION# MAKE SURE THE CLUTCH PLATE RAISED SECTION THAT CONTAIN THE SPRINGS IN THE CENTER OF THE CLUTCH PLATE RAISED SECTION FACE BACKWARDS TOWARDS TO PRESSURE PLATE OTHER WISE UR IN SERIOUS TROUBLE. REMOVE & REFIT THE NEW THROW OUT BEARING THAT COMES WITH THE NEW CLUTCH KIT, APPLY SOME HIGH TEMPERATURE WHEEL BEARING GREASE TO THE INPUT SHAFT WHERE THE BEARING SLIDES FORWARD & BACKWARDS ON THE GEARBOX.A QUICK NOTE, SOME THROW OUT BEARINGS, U HAVE TO REMOVE THE BEARING FROM THE SLIDE MOUNT & SOME THROWOUT BEARINGS COME COMPLETE WITH BEARING & MOUNT AS ONE PIECE.THE HARDEST PART OF THIS WHOLE OPERATION IS GETTING THE BOX TO SLIDE BACK INTO POSTION, IT IS VERY TRICKY, IF THE BOX IS NOT PERFECTLY LINED UP WITH THE MOTOR U WONT GET IT IN, U MAY HAVE TO JACK UP THE FRONT OF THE MOTOR SO IT IS TILLED BACK IN ALIGHNMENT WITH THE BOX.ONCE ALL BACK TOGETHER, JUST RING UP MAZDA SERVICE DEPARTMENT & ASK THEM WHAT TYPE OF OIL TO PUT INTO THE GEARBOX & TRANSFER CASE , WHICH CAN BE FILLED IN THE SIDE INPECTION PLUGS IN THE SIDE OF THE GEARBOX & TRANSFER CASES. MOST 4WDS GEARBOX & TRANSFER TAKE GL4 OR GL5 HYPOID OILS. GL4 = 75W/80 WEIGHT OIL & A GL5 = 80W/90 OIL WHICH IS A THICKER OIL. IN SOME VERY RARE INSTANCES SOME GEARBOXES TAKE ENGINE OIL OR A DEXTRON 3 OIL WHICH IS USED IN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION.ALSO CHECK THE OWNERS MANUAL IF U HAVE IT, THEY CAN BE HELPFUL.GOOD LUCK & WORK SAFELY, REMEMBER THE BOX IS VERY HEAVY & DANGEROUS SHOULD IT FALL ON TOP U, MY ADVICE ,GET IT DONE BY A MECHANIC..

Have you checked the oil recently? I'd suggest changing it fully rather than topping up, and checking for any signs of metal in the oil (the drain plug should be magnetic, but running the oil into a plastic tub then sticking a magnet in to the oil and waving that round should find any not on the plug. Lots of Metal = Bad.

Its usually on top of the gear box and there is usually a black or grey plastic top you can take off.

is it coming from transfer case gasket?its mounted to gearbox or breather