What is essc and what dose it do on my 95 maxima

Could be anything in the truck. The best way to narrow this type of problem down is to due a parasitic draw test. This is done by disconnecting the ground from the battery. Then connect an amp probe inline between the battery and terminal. Watch the amperage on the meter, it should drop to 5 ma or less after 10 min. This is sleep mode. If this happens you either don't have a draw (drain) or you have a draw that is that can't be duplicated at this time. If your amp draw is still over 5 ma after ten min. Something is staying on. To find out what that might be. Without opening any doors or actuating any switches, start removing and replacing fuses while watching amp draw on the meter when you see the amp draw drop you have found the circuit that is draining the battery. Hope this helps.

You have a parasitic draw on the electrical system causing the drain. You will need a amp meter hooked in series with the battery that detects amp/milliamp draw to see how much current is being drawn with the vehicle shut off and diagnose from there. Usually involves pulling fuses one at a time and watching the meter to see what fuse lowers/eliminates the draw and then finding out what the fuse controls to isolate the source of the draw

Put an amp clamp on the battery cable to see if anything is drawing it down while the key is off. It will always draw a small amperage because the computer doesn't shut off.

there are several reasons...not enough cells in a weak battery(not enough cold cranking amps in battery to turn the car over). Check your alternator as well. Does the temperature drop? Sounds like you need a new battery(also when you turn off your car- TURN OFF EVERYTHING...sometimes a radio, or something not turned off(even a trunk light, interior light, security system(various things)- can zap the juice from your battery overnight or within hrs.-leaving not enough to start the car the next day....Hope that helps....Xx, Jasmine

Go to You Tube Video & see how to do a parasitic CURRENT
drain test

What you have done so far with a test light & volt meter is basically
doing nothing

You need an amp meter & a wiring diagram,then pull fuses one
at a time, to get to the circuit that causes the drain,then use the
prints to test that circuit for voltage drops

You have something drawing on your battery. disconnect the nevagative cable. hook a test light between the negative cable and negative battery post and pull fuses till the test light goes out. when the test light goes out you've found the circuit that's drawing down your battery. trace the circuit and look for a short to ground or if something on that circuit is staying on.

idk

Could be a ground problem; I send you a drain test to check it, you will need a digital volt and ohm meter to perform a battery draw test.

WARNING: Do not attempt this test on a lead-acid battery that has recently been recharged. Explosive gases may cause personal injury. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury.

CAUTION: To prevent damage to the meter, do not crank the engine or operate accessories that draw more than 10A.

NOTE: No factory-equipped vehicle should have more than a 50 mA (0.050 amp) draw.

Check for current drains on the battery in excess of 50 milliamps (0.050 amp) with all the electrical accessories off and the vehicle at rest for at least 40 minutes . Current drains can be tested with the following procedure:

NOTE:
Many electronic modules draw 10 mA (0.010 amp) or more continuously.
Use an in-line ammeter between the negative battery post and its respective cable.

Typically, a drain of approximately one amp can be attributed to an engine compartment lamp, glove compartment lamp, or interior lamp staying on continually. Other component failures or wiring shorts may be located by selectively pulling fuses to pinpoint the location of the current drain. When the current drain is found, the meter reading will fall to an acceptable level. If the drain is still not located after checking all the fuses, it may be due to the generator.

To accurately test the drain on a battery, an in-line digital ammeter must be used. Use of a test lamp or voltmeter is not an accurate method due to the number of electronic modules.

When the battery has been disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the powertrain control module (PCM) relearns its fuel trim. The vehicle may need to be driven to relearn the strategy.

Make sure the junction box(es)/fuse panel(s) is accessible without turning on interior or underhood lights. Drive the vehicle at least 5 minutes and over 48 km/h (30 mph) to turn on and activate the vehicle systems.
Allow the vehicle to sit with the key OFF for at least 40 minutes to allow modules to time out/power down.

Connect a fused jumper wire between the negative battery cable and the negative battery post to prevent modules from resetting and to catch capacitive drains.
Disconnect the negative battery cable from the negative battery post without breaking the connection of the jumper wire.

NOTE: It is very important that continuity is not broken between the negative battery post and the negative battery cable when connecting the meter. If this happens, the entire procedure must be repeated. Connect the tester between the negative battery cable and the post. The meter must be capable of reading milliamps and should have a 10 amp capability.

NOTE:
If the meter settings need to be switched or the test leads need to be moved to another jack, the jumper wire must be reinstalled to avoid breaking continuity.
Amperage draw will vary from vehicle to vehicle depending on the equipment package. Compare to a similar vehicle for reference.
No factory-equipped vehicle should have more than a 50 mA (0.050 amp) draw.

Remove the jumper wire. If the draw is found to be excessive, remove fuses from the central junction box one at a time and note the current drop. Do not reinstall the fuses until you are finished testing. To properly isolate each of the circuits, all of the fuses may need to be removed and install one fuse, note the amperage draw, then remove the fuse and install the next fuse, etc.

If the current draw is still excessive, remove the fuses from the battery junction box (BJB) one at a time and note the current drop. Do not reinstall the fuses until you have finished testing. To properly isolate each of the circuits, all of the fuses may need to be removed. After removal of all of the fuses, install one fuse, note the amperage draw, then remove the fuse and install the next fuse until each circuit has been tested. When the current level drops to an acceptable level after removing a fuse, the circuit containing the excessive draw has been located.

Check the wiring schematic in the wiring diagram for any circuits that run from the battery without passing through the junction boxes. This could find in the Service Manual or Haynes books. If the current draw is still excessive, disconnect these circuits until the draw is found. Also disconnect the generator electrical connections if the draw can not be located. The generator may be internally shorted, causing the current drain.

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I'll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using Fixya, and have a nice day.

A 6 amp draw would be enough to drain the battery overnight. are you sure its not lower?

The easiest way to find a draw is to start removing fuses one at a time until the draw goes away making sure to replace the fuse before moving onto the next so you don't end up with a pile of fuses that you don't know where they go. Once you have narrowed down the fuse that eliminates the draw you can then start to focus on all the devices that circuit powers up.

Typically you would want to see a draw of less than .050 amps and in your situation you should see less that .030 amps or even less after the draw is gone.

Post back after your find out what fuse eliminates the draw and I'll do my best to get you some more info on that circuit.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

I would suggest investing in an inexpensive digital mutimeter and do some testing.  Hook it in-line with the hot cable from the battery.  You want to be reading amps, not volts.  That should give you a reading immediately of some current being used.  While it's hooked up, start pulling fuses, one at a time.  if that doesn't stop the current draw, replace it and pull the next one.  Eventually you'll find the circuit that is drawing down your battery.  From there, you have to check individual items in that circuit.
good luck.