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My 2000 Nissan Altima will falter when it gets warm. Months ago my mechanic cleaned the EGR and then two weeks ago, I changed it for a new one. He had cleaned the manifold saying the port at the manifold was a bit clogged. Today it left my wife stranded (not a good thing) and sent a plume of white smoke...smells like oil. After it cooled, it started and ran fine. The pattern has been for OK when cool (10-15 miles) and then faltering/shuttering when warm.
My mechanic already checked the Fuel Pressure...OK. Surfing other blogs I have discovered that the second Cat Converter commonly mucks up and causes back pressue issues and even burping trash from the first Cat Converter into the exhaust manifold/valves. Advanced/ignored problems have even trashed the motor.
The problem exists when the motor is hot and often will first show the trouble at higher RPM (50 MPH). But once it has surfaced, it won't stop, until the motor just stops after a lot of faltering.
I am about to gut the second converter for the cure. Let you know how it comes out.My mechanic already checked the Fuel Pressure...OK. Surfing other blogs I have discovered that the second Cat Converter commonly mucks up and causes back pressue issues and even burping trash from the first Cat Converter into the exhaust manifold/valves. Advanced/ignored problems have even trashed the motor.
The problem exists when the motor is hot and often will first show the trouble at higher RPM (50 MPH). But once it has surfaced, it won't stop, until the motor just stops after a lot of faltering.
I am about to gut the second converter for the cure. Let you know how it comes out.
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Re: My 2000 Nissan Altima will falter when it gets warm....
Try having the exhaust back pressure checked. Check the fuel pressure & filter. I don't think the egr has much to do with this. There's more to test but start there & write back.
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Hi Sandy, I'm glad to help!
Sandy just a week ago I fixed a Mitsubishi with the same problem. The EGR Monitor would not set, it turns out the vacuum solenoid that goes to the EGR Valve was bad. I replaced for the lady and it fixed the problem. NOTE: I can't say that is what's keeping your monitor from running. BUT, its a real cheap fix and worth a try, don't you think. Hope this helps and have an awesome day Sandy!
He's right both and the code is the EGR valve. The car won't run with the EGR valve removed but it may be disabled some way. Most of the time EGR vales leak or the senser line stopps up. There's a small medal ine coming up the the EGR senser from the exhaust and connects to the senser this line stops up and the senser knows something aught to be happing and it doesn't so it turns the light on. Your mechanic is right it's not hurting anything but it makes the light on. It can be fixed but it'll not run much different.
check engine light has nothing to do with oil level. Only the red engine light does. It sounds like you are burning a lot of oil and it is poisoning your catalytic converter. Your converter is killing itself trying to treat all the unburned oil that is coming to it. It will get so hot that it swells inside and clogs it up. Why you are burning oil is the question. Only 3 possibilities. Past the piston rings, past the valve stem seals or a plugged pvc valve and its hoses. Clean the PVC hose and change the PCV first. Changing the cats now will just kill them again until you fix the oil burning. Autozone will do free scan test for fault codes by the way. PCV won't show up there though.
You can buy cheap engine on ebay or at car-part.com. page with asterisk is lowest price.
I thought this was free support. Apparently I was wrong. How did I fix it? Easy, I broke down on the freeway and got towed home on a flatbed! That was easy!!
My mechanic already checked the Fuel Pressure...OK. Surfing other blogs I have discovered that the second Cat Converter commonly mucks up and causes back pressue issues and even burping trash from the first Cat Converter into the exhaust manifold/valves. Advanced/ignored problems have even trashed the motor.
The problem exists when the motor is hot and often will first show the trouble at higher RPM (50 MPH). But once it has surfaced, it won't stop, until the motor just stops after a lot of faltering.
I am about to gut the second converter for the cure. Let you know how it comes out.
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