Upon start-up
the engine has a alternating idle between high and low RPMs....Then if
i put it into gear, the idle becomes EXTREMELY rough, and tries to shut
the car down.
After i give it a little gas, and drive down the road, it stops, and run absolutely fine..
PLEASE help me, i just bought the car...
Ive ran injector, and fuel system cleaner through it, as well as changing the fuel filter.
HELP ME
UPDATE :
Well...
The Check Engine light is not burn out, or lit up...
i took it to Autozone anyway.
got nothing.
Its
getting worse, and is not starting to stall under light acceleration.
When sitting at a red light, it idles so rough it rattles the entire
car.
Now i am starting to hear a rattling coming from the bottom end.
I have replaced the plugs, wires, fuel filter, changed the oil......i have NO idea what's going on...
$5 at a scrap yard, and she's good as new.Thanks for all the help,
However the actual problem was the MAP Sensor.
$5 at a scrap yard, and she's good as new.
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have a 97 crown vic,
in warm weather it idles fine and run fine
now that its cold I have to hold at high idle to have warm up
for about 10 mins.
if I just start it the engine will die with out me holding on foot on the gas
Now you go to a repair shop, and have it diagnosed
You have other codes for the coils,forget the PO300
You will need someone good with ford ignition issues,
to resolve the misfires, and possible do some other
preventative maintenance work,as the stalling is
another problem
I would replace the dle Air Control solenoid. I know its a guess, but its a common thing. when cranking the engine, the idle should flare high, and then slowly down to idle speed.
This is caused by the IAC valve. Over time the valve becomes gummy and inoperative. Get it replaced and the problem is solved. IAC stands for idle air control, hence the stalling concern.
i am trying to install an aftermarket temperature guage with capillary tube into my 1988 crown victoria ltd 5.0 efi. where does the capillary tube mount?
When you turn the key on does the check engine light come on? If not it may be burned out. It sounds like a MAP sensor or an O2 sensor is bad. I would suggest taking it to autozone as they do free diagnostic and seeing if a code comes up. If it is a sensor it should, if not it may be the idle sensor not reading right in the ECU. More than likely it is one of the sensors though.
This sounds like a normal condition.What happens is the cold start emission reduction component monitor(software program in the computer) is running.
Cold Start Emission Reduction Component Monitor
The Cold Start Emission Reduction Component Monitor was introduced for the 2006 MY on vehicles that meet the
LEV-II emission standards. The monitor works by validating the operation of the components of the system
required to achieve the cold start emission reduction strategy, namely retarded spark timing and elevated idle
airflow.
When the CSER strategy is enabled, the idle air control system will request a higher idle rpm, elevating engine
airflow. While this CSER elevated airflow is requested, the low airflow test compares the measured idle airflow from
the MAF sensor to the commanded idle airflow from the idle air control strategy.
Shouldn't the EGR Valve trip the Engine light?
Tomorrow im buying a new Distributor Cap, Rotor, And PCV Valve.
Thanks for all the help,
However the actual problem was the MAP Sensor.
$5 at a scrap yard, and she's good as new.
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