Hi, the procedures below are pasted from autozone.com. I have added information to the steps to explain and emphasize certain points. Please let me know if you have any questions, and thanks for using FixYa.
3VZ-E Engine
See Figures 1 through 10
WARNING
This procedure requires tools which may not be in your tool box. Pulley extractors and a counter-holding bar are required. Do not attempt the procedure without these tools available.
Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the 3VZ-E engine timing belt routing
Disconnect the negative battery cable and drain the coolant.
Remove the radiator and shroud.
CAUTION
When draining coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted by ethylene glycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain coolant into a sealable container. Coolant may be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old.
Remove the power steering belt and pump.
Remove the spark plugs.
Disconnect the air hoses at the air pipe.
Disconnect the water bypass hose at the air pipe and then remove the water outlet.
Remove the air conditioning belt. Remove the alternator drive belt, fluid coupling, guide and fan pulley.
Disconnect the high tension cords and their clamps at the upper timing belt cover and then remove the cover and its three gaskets.
Rotate the crankshaft pulley until the groove on its lip is aligned with the 0 on the lower timing belt cover. This should set the No. 1 cylinder at TDC of its compression stroke. The matchmarks on the camshaft timing pulleys must be in alignment with those on the upper rear timing cover. If not, rotate the engine 360° (one complete revolution).
Remove the power steering pulley. Use the counter-holding tool to aid in removal of the crank pulley bolt. Remove the crankshaft pulley using a puller.
Remove the fan pulley bracket and then remove the lower timing belt cover.
If the belt is to be reused after removal, mark an arrow on the belt showing the direction of rotation. Make matchmarks on the side of the belt and the flanges of each pulley. These marks will be important at reassembly.
Fig. Fig. 2: Mark the position of the belt if it is to be reused
Remove the timing belt guide and remove the tension spring.
Fig. Fig. 3: Remove the tension spring
Loosen the idler pulley bolt and shift the idler to the left as far as it will go. Temporarily tighten the bolt and release tension from the belt. Slide the belt off the pulleys.
Fig. Fig. 4: Move the tensioner all the way to the left, then tighten the bolt
Protect the belt at all times. Do not bend, twist or turn the belt inside out. Do not allow the belt to contact oil, grease or water.
Examine the belt closely for cracking, loose teeth, separation or wear on the edges. If the belt is not virtually perfect, replace it.
Check the idler pulleys for smoothness of rotation. Inspect the tension spring; correct length is 2.15 in. (54.6mm).
Fig. Fig. 5: Measure the length of the tension spring
To install:
Make absolutely certain the marks on the camshaft pulleys are aligned with the marks on the rear belt cover. Check the lower belt pulley; align its mark with the mark on the oil pump housing.
Install the timing belt onto the cam pulleys, idler pulley, water pump pulley and crank pulley. If reusing the original belt, take great care to align all the marks made before removal. Then, when installing the belt, keep belt tension first between the camshaft gears and then from the exhaust cam gear to the crankshaft gear--this is critical to the timing. All slack should be between the crankshaft gear and the intake cam gear, until the tensioner is released to take out the slack.
Fig. Fig. 6: Inspect the belt for any signs of damage
Loosen the idler pulley bolt; move it as far to the right as it will go. Temporarily tighten it in position.
Install the tension spring. Loosen the idle pulley bolt to the point that the idler pulley moves with the tension of the spring.
Temporarily install the crankshaft pulley bolt. Turn the crankshaft clockwise two complete revolutions from TDC to TDC. Check that the mark on each pulley aligns exactly with the matching marks on the covers or housing.
Fig. Fig. 7: Always turn the engine in a clockwise direction
Fig. Fig. 8: After rotating the engine, ALL the timing marks must align perfectly
Tighten the idler pulley bolt to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm).
Remove the crank pulley bolt. Install the belt guide on the crankshaft pulley. The cupped side faces outward.
Fig. Fig. 9: Install the belt guide with the cupped side out
Install the bottom belt cover with the two gaskets.tighten the bolts to (5 Nm).
Install the fan pulley bracket and tighten it to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm).
Install the upper cover and tighten the bolts 48 inch lbs. (5 Nm).
Position the crankshaft pulley so the groove in the pulley is aligned with the woodruff key in the crankshaft. Tighten the bolt to 181 ft. lbs. (245 Nm).
Install the fan pulley, guide, fluid coupling and alternator drive belt. Adjust the belt tension.
Install the power steering pump and belt. Install the air conditioning belt. Adjust the belt tension.
Apply sealant to the contact surface of the water outlet. Install the water outlet and connect the bypass hose. Connect the air hoses.
Fig. Fig. 10: Apply sealant to the water outlet before installation
Install the spark plugs.
Install the radiator and fill with coolant.
Road test the vehicle. Check for leaks. Recheck the ignition timing.
I have them for a 2004 Corolla, which should be very similar. Post an email and I'll send them. Open a one-time account if you want with Gmail or Yahoo.
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What is the model year? I'd have to look at wiring diagram to see what that fusible link fuse controls? Maybe there is a short to ground, somewhere? I can't tell you much w/o looking at wiring diagram?
Toyota Quantum (South Africa)
wiki says.
2TR-FE 2,700 cc petrol engine
so google 2TR-FE, or read your FSM.
It features DOHC, 16 valves and VVT-i
changing chain are not easy.
lots of mistakes can blow an engine. if you let it snap.
our 2.7L in the Tacoma, is CHAIN drive.
im at alldata.com
58 steps and 25 photos. for just removal.
how'd you like that, here,
it take me 2 hours to get this , host it and link it.
why would any one do that.
why not pay $15 like we do.. and discounted here.
we dont have your car so pick 07 tocoma , it has same engine. http://www.scantool.net/software/alldata-diy-1-month-subscription.html
but your body is different so many steps will vary.
why no go to toyota and buy the FSM for your car and your country.
for best play
Please contact me at [email protected] I will send you full pictures and literature on this subject.After you rate my solution i no longer give out my time and resources for a later rating on my solution which they did not even go back and give me a number 1 rating sorry. This is why i do this for my ratings.
Click on the following free direct Link. It has the Timing: Pulley, Belt and Mark Diagrams for your 1996 Toyota Camry. Plus additional Instructional and Directional Diagrams.
Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.com!
The link below is a Typical fog lamp / driving lamp hookup. Keep in mind that in most states, for these lamps to be 'legal' (and thus pass inspection), you must wire them such that:
1. You can cut them off (in other words, there must be a switch installed to turn them off)
and
2. They may only be operated with the low beams. (therefore, you must power your on/off switch from the low beam circuit)
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