Toyota 1.6 GE-4A backfire when accelarating to get high engine speed

Depends, are the two engines the same exact CC or Ci? Do they have the same intake and fuel delivery systems. there are many variables.. make sure you cover your bases with research!!
TOYOTA 4A GE 4AGE 4AFE 16V 20V ENGINE and 4A GZE 4AGZE WORKSHOP MANUAL eBay

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Download Link:
Toyota 4A GE Engine Workshop Service Repair Manual

Engine missing is a vast subject and calls for number of things to examine. What are the problem symptoms? Is it concerned with one or more of the following?
- Rough idle, stalls or misses.
- Engine hesitates/ poor acceleration.
- Engine diesels (runs after ignition switch is turned off).
- Muffler explosion (after fire) on deceleration only.
- Engine backfires.
- Engine rattles at idle speed only.
- Engine rattles at all speeds.
Please mention if there is some other symptom.
Thanks.

wow, i love MR2, sell it to me.... lust..... sorry.......
USA Car?????????
its sucking fuel, can be lots of things
got the FSM yet?, keeping a very old car like this going without the big book is near impossible...... really... why work blind>?
you got the 4A non turbo engine>?

1.6 L 4A-GE DOHC I4 (AW11)

wiki (USA)
As a power plant, Toyota chose to use the naturally aspirated 4A-GE 1,587 cc inline-four engine, a dual overhead-cam, four-valve-per-cylinder motor.[5] This engine was also equipped with DENSO electronic port fuel injection and a variable intake geometry ("T-VIS"), giving the engine a maximum power output of 112 hp

first what engine then what fuel injection.
Study the Denso system first, then trouble shoot.
If I had this, car i'd :
1: make brakes perfect.
2: fix all fuel leaks, every inch checked,!!!! top reason for midengine car fires...
3: compression on all cylinders (WOT) 150PSI or more.
4: full tune up with all fluids. really !
5: i'd then check all the EFI sensors and have the the injectors pro cleaned off car, (sonic cleaned)
6: engine thermosat holding water temp at 180F or more steady!!!
7: back flush every inch of cooling system and sub parts.

after all that id diagnose it.
starting with fuel pressure tests , all 6 of them.
ask.

TSB's the update MR2 engine signal (spark) generators (sensor)
old ones are no good.
bid away
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-Toyota-MR2-Manuals-/181281489430?pt=US_Nonfiction_Book&hash=item2a35380216

"will I be", no one can speak for your skills, time or cash, why ask that.
ask how, how much, or how long.(so will answer that)
the prizm has , Toyota engine.
lets answer easY way;
1: you can in fact put any engine and any trans in to any car.
any true pro, can do that. it's not magic. (plasma cutter and all)
and a lot of hard work.
i many cases, in usa it's illegal ,but we skip that.

you did not state the exact transmission, you wanted.
out of what car, or what year.
ever price them $$$ ?
they run more that the whole car , like $1000?
and finding a uses good 5sp,. that be hard, after 18 years.

here are the parts (wiki paste) see toy engine?
Body style 4-door sedan
5-door hatchback Engine 1.6 L 4A-FE I4
1.6 L 4A-GE I4, 105 hp (78 kW)
1.6 L 4A-GE I4, 130 hp (97 kW) Transmission 5-speed manual
3-speed automatic
4-speed automatic
Ok, ill not post the 20 things that need to be changed
what I will do is teach you to fish,
I present the FSM. (better is a GEO parts list used)
the answer is here.
(tranny, tranny TCM brain, harnesses, mounts.
you can see in the FSM.

if you have never done , tranny swaps cars?,
why do that? you have a month of free time?
why not sell this old car, and get one with the 5sp.
http://www.scantool.net/software/alldata-diy-1-month-subscription.html
be cheaper, faster and will save vast effort and time.
$1000 to $1500 for old and get the 5sp car for same.
KBB prices.

Vehicles covered: Toyota Corolla, 4A-F, 4A-FE, and 4A-GE Engines

Here's your maintenance manual entry for the complete procedure:

OIL PAN REMOVAL & INSTALLATION - 1990 Toyota Corolla

4A-F, 4A-FE and 4A-GE Engines

See Figures 1 through 7

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.





Fig. 1: Exploded view of the oil pan assembly-4A-F and 4A-GE engines

3. Drain the engine oil into a suitable container.





Fig. 2: Remove the oil pan drain plug to drain the engine oil from the crankcase

4. Place a jack under the transaxle to support it.

5. Remove the splash shield from under the engine.

6. Raise the jack under the transaxle slightly.

7. Remove the front exhaust pipe between the exhaust manifold and catalytic converter. Some models have an oxygen sensor, disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring.





Fig. 3: Remove the front exhaust pipe for better access during oil pan removal

8. On the 4A-F and 4A-FE engines, remove the center mounting.






Fig. 4: Remove the bolts and nuts retaining the center mounting-4A-F engine

9. Some 4A-FE engines and all 4A-GE engines are equipped with a stiffener plate. Remove the set bolts and pull the stiffener plate from the vehicle.

10. On the 4A-GE engines, unbolt and lower the flywheel housing under cover.

11. If equipped, remove the oil cooler hose and union from the oil pan. Remove the two nuts and nineteen bolts retaining the oil pan.

12. Insert a blade between the pan and cylinder block, cut off the applied sealer and remove the pan.







Fig. 5: Insert a blade and tap lightly to loosen the oil pan free from the block

To install:

Note: Be careful not to drop any oil on the contact surfaces of the pan and block.

13. Using a razor blade and gasket scraper, remove all traces of packing (FIPG) material from the gasket surfaces. Thoroughly clean all main surfaces to remove loose material. Clean both sealing surfaces with non-residue solvent.





Fig. 6: Apply a reasonable amount of sealant (FIPG) to the oil pan surface-except 7A-FE engine

14. Apply new packing (FIPG) 08826-00080 to the oil pan as shown. Avoid applying excessive amounts to the surface. Be especially careful around the oil passages.

Note: Parts must be assembled within 3 mins of application. Otherwise, the sealer (FIPG) must be removed and reapplied.

15. Install the oil pan over the studs on the block with the nineteen bolts and two nuts. Tighten the bolts to 43 inch lbs. (5 Nm). Make sure when you install the oil pan drain plug using a new gasket.






Fig. 7: Tighten the 19 oil pan retaining bolts securely-4A-F, 4A-FE and 4A-GE engines

16. If equipped, install the oil cooler pipe, two new gaskets and union bolt. Tighten the union bolt to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).

17. Install the front exhaust pipe (with new gaskets on either end of the pipe) to the manifold.

18. On the 4A-GE engines, install and secure the flywheel housing under cover if removed.

19. On the 4A-FE engines if removed, attach the stiffener plate. tighten the No. 1 bolt first then the 5 bolts in the sequence shown. Tighten to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm).

20. On the 4A-GE engines, attach the stiffener plate with the 3 set bolts and tighten them to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm).

21. Attach the center mounting and tighten the member side bolts to 38 ft. lbs. (52 Nm), plate side to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm).

22. Lower the jack from the transaxle.

23. Lower the vehicle, and fill the crankcase with the appropriate amount of engine oil. Engine oil crankcase capacity is 3.4 quarts (with oil filter change).
Above -9 degrees Fahrenheit, use 10W-40 motor oil, and above 10 degrees Fahrenheit, use 20W-50 motor oil.

24. Connect the negative battery cable, start the engine and check for leaks. If all is well, raise the vehicle slightly and install the engine splash cover.

25. Recheck the engine oil level, top off if necessary.

Corollas made from 1993 to 1997 had two engine choices, the 1.6 liter 4A-FE and the 1.8 liter 7A-FE (click here for many details, comparisons, and diagrams).

Fig. 2: Firing order- 4A-C engine (other A-series similar)

Two things... check your oxygen sensor - or just replace it. Have you ever had the check engine light come on while the cruise is on at highway speed? jumper the error check terminals and see if you have any check engine codes showing. Also, see if someone removed the catalytic converter - or get a new one.

nothing really to worry about,just make sure to put the gasket and your ready to rock.

Hi,

Actual timing would depend on what engine is installed in the 1985 Corolla. There are some versions that uses the 4A-GE, 4A-GEC, 4A-C engines. There are even some Asian versions that used the 4K/B engines.

The correct method would be to use timing light, engine analyzer and some other test equipment, However, below is a quick and dirty procedure. Basically, to adjust the distributor timing, you need to:
1. make sure cylinder 1's piston is at firing position/TDC (top dead center);
2. crankshaft pulley's timing mark is between the markings on the engine with numbers on them;
3. unplug the rubber boot of the high tension wire for #1 cylinder;
4. connect to it a spare known good spark plug and allow to touch any metal surface of the engine;
5. slightly loosen the single locking bolt of the distributor stem;
6. turn ignition key to ON but not start;
7. carefully swing the distributor assembly till there is spark in the exposed spark plug;
8. tighten locking bolt.

You may need to readjust the distributor for highest idling RPM with the engine running by simply turning the entire distributor assy.

The timing mark must coincide with the specified advance for whatever engine is used by the Corolla. 8 degrees would be a fair start.

Extreme care when working with engine running; extremely high voltage at the high tension wires, distributor and ignition coil and the fan/belt has been known to catch loose clothing.

Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards.

Thank you for using FixYa.