Well, I think I've finally won my 'No Start When Hot' battle!! After pulling my hair out for months, I ended up using a combination of the pointers listed above.
I had already cleaned the battery terminals, starter terminals, terminals at the alternator, and especially the ground connection from the engine block to the engine mount support arm to the chassis. Even after trying two other used (but good condition) starters, I had still been unsuccessful in resolving the issue.
The final two things that I believe did the trick were:
1. I finally remembered/realized that the positive cable from the battery first goes into and out of the B+ jumper box before going on to the starter. Since, I hadn't touched it yet, I dismantled it and took wire brushes to all four connections (MAKE SURE TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY FIRST!!!)
2. Also, I got two big 'U.S. quarter sized' washers and placed one in between each of the starter lobes and the transmission bell housing in order to provide just a fraction more clearance to the flywheel (This is what I believe the main problem was in my case - mechanical clearance just as stated in one of the previous posts)! I finally came to believe this theory more and more because in order to start my car, sometimes if I rolled it just a few inches in neutral and then dropped the clutch in gear, I would then be able to take the car back out of gear and get it to start (almost as if the flywheel had to move just a tad bit to the right position for the starter to engage more easily).
It's now almost mid-August and I still haven't had any problems from the 'original' starter after approx. 7 months!!
Additional advice: Stick with Bosch starters!!
...Hope this helps someone else out there..
SOURCE: bmw 735i starts fine when cool. but once turned off
sounds like you may have a bad coil, would be my guess, hope was some help
SOURCE: 1995 bmw 318i will not start once the car is up to
Possible causes: Fuel pump relay, Pump, Fuel Filter, Regulator, Crank Shaft Sensor, Camshaft Sensor, Loos Connection(try to wiggle the wiring harness and observe). or faulty Ignation Switch.
Observe if the engine will lack of power first before to shut off, if this is the scenario it could be a fuel pump relay or pump. I suggest you to monitor the fuel pressure first or try to swap fuel pump relay to other as long as same color or figure and observe it.
If the senario is sudden cut off, it coud be a faulty cranck shaft sensor. a faulty cranck shaft sensor is easy to determine using tachometer while cranking, if the sensor is faulty the tachometer will not move or rise even a little bit if it's good it will rise a bit while cranking the engine.
Check fuel pump when the problem occur, try to ignition ON/Off and listen to fuel pump motor noise from underneath (close to rear right side tire), the pump will operates for aprox 5 sec. everytime you turned ON the ignition switch. and if you can't hear noise then you have to focus to fuel system.
SOURCE: 1998 bmw 318is e36 - idle is low and switches of
first off, check the coolant temp sensor for corrosion and loose terminals. check also the fuel filter for clogs. it sounds very strongly like there are 2 issues going on. has the vehicle been scanne dfor any "history" or "pending" codes? please let me know
SOURCE: changed fuel pump and fuel filter, now x5 2002 won't start
1. use scanner to find out if there's trouble code.
2.. it's not clear if the starter (motor) turns as you try to start the engine, if not, check starter motor including intermittent (maybe) problem with the ignition switch.
3.if starter motor turns everytime you try to start: check the electrical ignition system: coils & spark plugs
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