Car not running hot,
Check cluster if bad replace
SOURCE: 1996 Saturn SL2 car won't restart after running
engine coolant temp. sensor is cracked pull it out it is on the side of the head.. easy fix you will see its cracked when you pull it 15 dollar fix
SOURCE: 95 saturn won't start when hot
Blair, I would take a look at he TPS (throttle position sensor) located on the throttle body. In other words, it sounds as thought sensor when heated is changing its value to "open" or "shorted".
If the car starts OK when cold, use a hair dryer to heat the TPS when the engine is cold to see if you can duplicate the problem.
Also is the a service engine light on? Codes?
If you have a "digital volt/ohm meter" available you can read the variable resistance of the sensor when the problem occurrs to determine if the sensor is defective.
SOURCE: 2001 saturn L-series 3.0 dies after starting
You mentioned that some of the couplers for the intake runners are (were) split. I don't think that has anything to do with your problem, but it gives me an idea.
If the vacuum hose leading to your MAP sensor is also split/crushed/broken then the MAP sensor will never register any manifold vacuum. The only time that reading would be right would be when the car was at WOT. This theory alone does not explain why your car does not run, though because your car also has a mass airflow sensor. It should be able to run if either one of those sensors fails (but not both - or at least not very well with both failed). Did your car display a "check engine" light before the current condition developed? Does it have one now?
I would check the hose leading to the MAP sensor (if there is one - now that I look more closely at the drawings, it doesn't look like there is a hose). The MAP is on the top of the intake manifold on the rear bank above the cylinder closest to the driver's side of the car. It is held in by one bolt.
Can you retrieve any stored codes? Stores like Autozone will scan a car for its codes for free, but they don't make "house calls."
After typing all the above information, something new has occurred to me:
Your car has a drive-by-wire throttle. Idle speed is controlled by the electronic throttle valve. If you remove the tube that connects the throttle valve to the air cleaner, you should be able to see the throttle plate. Does it move appropriately for the amount of accelerator pedal input? For example, if you apply roughly 10% throttle, does the plate open roughly 10% of the way?
Your engine computer may just need to re-learn the position of the throttle plate. To do this, with your foot off the accelerator, turn the ignition to the "run" position, but do not attempt to start the car. After 30 seconds, the engine should begin the relearn sequence. If there are any TPS-related codes stored, the ECU will not attempt to run the relearn sequence, so you'll need to diagnose why that isn't working.
Anyway, this second option fits your symptoms a bit better than the first, and could indicate a failed throttle position sensor, accelerator position sensor, throttle actuator, wiring, or engine computer.
By the way, inability to rev above 3200 RPM may not be a problem. Some cars with automatic transmissions are limited and will not rev above a certain speed when in neutral or park. That said, if the throttle valve was not opening all the way because it was faulty, that would be a different story.
SOURCE: how to reset computer on
the 02 sensor----camshaft position sensor and evaporative emmisions has small leak----the 2 sensors are dirty or wornout------emisions tank near gas tank shud be inspected-----ull get better gas miles when fixed----------codes will not disapear until then
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