No power to compressor 2 pounds of Freon compressor, expansion valve, dryer condenser an high pressure switch new.

There is a lot more to it than that. This is why the service bill is so high. Did you replace the Orifice tube or expansion valve? Did you replace the receiver/dryer? Did you flush the whole system out with solvent? Did you put the oil back in?

The proper steps are:

1. Remove any Freon with a recovery station.
2. Isolate and remove the compressor.
3. Remove and discard the receiver/dryer.
4. Remove and discard the orifice tube/expansion valve.
5. Flush the system with solvent and catch the discharge to check for rust and debris. If any are found, replace the whole system.
6. Replace the orifice tube / expansion valve with new one.
7. Replace the receiver/drier with new one.
8. Replace the oil in the system with fresh oil in the right amount.
9. Connect all compressor fittings on the compressor.
10. vacuum the unit down for at least 4 hours.
11. Recharge the system. Check performance and leaks.

High pressure restriction look at the following components #1 overcharged system #2 condenser fans not operating when compressors on. #2 plugged or stuck closed expansion valve (oriface Tube) #3 restricted condenser.

Kia Sedona expansion FRONT valve located under dash, behind glove box, fan and coil. Evacuate freon first. Disconnect Freon lines from firewall., Lay right front seat back to flat horizontal position and lay on top or totally remove the seat for easier working access. Remove under dash cover, fan, glove box, coil housing, remove coil mounting bolts, remove old expansion valve. (Inspect old valve, if debris inside, blow out coil before installing new valve. If visible debris best to consider replacing REAR expansion valve and DRIER/FILTER in front of radiator too and blow out all lines and coils while servicing.) Use compressor oil to lubricate "O" rings on new FRONT or REAR expansion valve, install valve bolts, reinstall coil bolts to FRONT firewall or REAR frame, reconnect freon lines to firewall in engine compartment. Evacuate AC system, install freon (35 1/2 ounces, nominal 3 pounds), check system for leaks, check for proper operation, enjoy.

Grand Am has an expansion valve. Link below has part number and picture of what you are looking for.
http://www.discountacparts.com/addtocart~year~1998~make~Pontiac~model~Grand_AM~descript~A-C_Compressor~part~60-40281.asp

Unfortunately, I do not know precisely. But for the most part auto a/c's are all the same. Below I will describe how to find it. I have also included a aguide to determine system operability that may or may not be helpful. Just trace the system with flow path described below the valve has to be between condensor and evaporator.

Reminder the flow for the a/c system is :
1. From the compressor a high pressure (HP) gas goes to the condenser in front of the radiator.
2. From the condenser a HP liquid goes to an expansion device (orifice tube or expansion valve)
3. From expansion device the low pressure gas enters the firewall to the evaporator.
4. From evaporator the low pressure liquid/gas mixture goes through the dryer back to the compressor suction.

Below is a guide to troubleshoot and check system function. This can be done by most folks.

Look at the front of the ac compressor and have someone turn on the ac from inside the car. The front of the pulley(clutch) will spin when turned on.

If it does not spin, the low pressure switch (LPS) is not satisfied. Meaning there is not enough freon in the system to operate the system. Means low freon capicity because of a leak.

The LPS can be jumpered to cause the compressor to run (clutch to engaged) which will draw the freon in the system.

The LPS is usually a two wire sensor on the suction of the compressor. (between evaporator and compressor) Unplug the sensor and install a jumper, this will engage the clutch. Connect a new can of freon
and fill to system capacity.

The capacity of the ac system will be on a label under the hood, do not overfill. Probably about 2 lbs. Local parts stores (Auto Zone and Advance) will have freon with stop leak. This may help the leak. They also make a freon with a UV dye. I always add a single can with dye so that if stop leak does not work I can find the leak in the future.

The system should be filled until suction pressure is about 30 to 38 psi..

Below is a guide to troubleshoot and check system function. This can be done by most folks.

Look at the front of the ac compressor and have someone turn on the ac from inside the car. The front of the pulley(clutch) will spin when turned on.

If it does not spin, the low pressure switch (LPS) is not satisfied. Meaning there is not enough freon in the system to operate the system. Means low freon capicity because of a leak.

The LPS can be jumpered to cause the compressor to run (clutch to engaged) which will draw the freon in the system.

The LPS is usually a two wire sensor on the suction of the compressor. (between evaporator and compressor) Unplug the sensor and install a jumper, this will engage the clutch. Connect a new can of freon
and fill to system capacity.

The capacity of the ac system will be on a label under the hood, do not overfill. Probably about 2 lbs. Local parts stores (Auto Zone and Advance) will have freon with stop leak. This may help the leak. They also make a freon with a UV dye. I always add a single can with dye so that if stop leak does not work I can find the leak in the future.

The system should be filled until suction pressure is about 30 to 38 psi..

Remember the flow for the a/c system is :
1. From the compressor a high pressure (HP) gas goes to the condenser in front of the radiator.
2. From the condenser a HP liquid goes to an expansion device (orifice tube or expansion valve)
3. From expansion device the low pressure gas enters the firewall to the evaporator.
4. From evaporator the low pressure liquid/gas mixture goes through the dryer back to the compressor suction.

Below is a guide to troubleshoot and check system function. This can be done by most folks.

Look at the front of the ac compressor and have someone turn on the ac from inside the car. The front of the pulley(clutch) will spin when turned on.

If it does not spin, the low pressure switch (LPS) is not satisfied. Meaning there is not enough freon in the system to operate the system. Means low freon capicity because of a leak.

The LPS can be jumpered to cause the compressor to run (clutch to engaged) which will draw the freon in the system.

The LPS is usually a two wire sensor on the suction of the compressor. (between evaporator and compressor) Unplug the sensor and install a jumper, this will engage the clutch. Connect a new can of freon
and fill to system capacity.

The capacity of the ac system will be on a label under the hood, do not overfill. Probably about 2 lbs. Local parts stores (Auto Zone and Advance) will have freon with stop leak. This may help the leak. They also make a freon with a UV dye. I always add a single can with dye so that if stop leak does not work I can find the leak in the future.

The system should be filled until suction pressure is about 30 to 38 psi..

Remember the flow for the a/c system is :
1. From the compressor a high pressure (HP) gas goes to the condenser in front of the radiator.
2. From the condenser a HP liquid goes to an expansion device (orifice tube or expansion valve)
3. From expansion device the low pressure gas enters the firewall to the evaporator.
4. From evaporator the low pressure liquid/gas mixture goes through the dryer back to the compressor suction.

on the tube between the firewall and the a/c compressor. On some Fords the low pressure port is on the dryer (aluminium cylinder). Good news is the low pressure and high pressure port are different sizes. You cannot mess it up.

Remember the flow for the a/c system is :
1. From the compressor a high pressure (HP) gas goes to the condenser in front of the radiator.
2. From the condenser a HP liquid goes to an expansion device (orifice tube or expansion valve)
3. From expansion device the low pressure gas enters the firewall to the evaporator.
4. From evaporator the low pressure liquid/gas mixture goes through the dryer back to the compressor suction

Below is a guide to troubleshoot and check system function. This can be done by most folks.

Look at the front of the ac compressor and have someone turn on the ac from inside the car. The front of the pulley(clutch) will spin when turned on.

If it does not spin, the low pressure switch (LPS) is not satisfied. Meaning there is not enough freon in the system to operate the system. Means low freon capicity because of a leak.

The LPS can be jumpered to cause the compressor to run (clutch to engaged) which will draw the freon in the system.

The LPS is usually a two wire sensor on the suction of the compressor. (between evaporator and compressor) Unplug the sensor and install a jumper, this will engage the clutch. Connect a new can of freon
and fill to system capacity.

The capacity of the ac system will be on a label under the hood, do not overfill. Probably about 2 lbs. Local parts stores (Auto Zone and Advance) will have freon with stop leak. This may help the leak. They also make a freon with a UV dye. I always add a single can with dye so that if stop leak does not work I can find the leak in the future.

The system should be filled until suction pressure is about 30 to 38 psi..

Remember the flow for the a/c system is :
1. From the compressor a high pressure (HP) gas goes to the condenser in front of the radiator.
2. From the condenser a HP liquid goes to an expansion device (orifice tube or expansion valve)
3. From expansion device the low pressure gas enters the firewall to the evaporator.
4. From evaporator the low pressure liquid/gas mixture goes through the dryer back to the compressor suction.

Check for ac low pressure switch gone bad.If the expansion valve goes bad it will cause that problem,also, make sure there is enough freon in system.If you could get some one to put ac gauges on the vehicle you could tell a lot about the system,It would tell if the low side was too low(bad expansion valve)or if it was too high on the low side or high side (bas expansion valve or block dryer or condenser.

we can solve this, but i need more info, a/c compressor should not run with the dash switch to off, so there could be a short in the switch or something is powering your a/c compressor.

another thing is the gas being relieve to your relief valve, your condenser fan could not be running there by creating a high head pressure to relieve on the relief valve or the valve could be open already and not the type where it seats back if the pressure is already low.

are you just putting gas right now as these things happens?

if so, you could have a clogged in your system, building a high head pressure to relieve in the valve.

the clogged could be in the filter dryer, or the expansion valve inside the evaporator coil.

tnx 4 using fixya,


drcool