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Greg Gladieux Posted on May 11, 2014
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Having trouble with engine killing or running rough even after it's warm.

The car was warm and running normally. When I backed up slowly, it stalled. It started after 6 cranks. It stalled again at the next stop sign. Started again after 7 cranks, it ran rough, straightened up and a half a mile later, at 60 mph. it started running rough again. 20 seconds later, it cleared up. Made it home. The next time I drove it, I accelerated a lot, it made it 3/8 of a mile and killed. It didn't start again until the next day.

1 Answer

william rodriguez

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  • Master 958 Answers
  • Posted on May 11, 2014
william rodriguez
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Not for sure but it could be your cam sensor. if the check engine light is on then take it to a parts store and they can run a scan and give you more information

Testimonial: "We will check on that, but most of the sensors have been replaced. We will ask the mechanic to see if it was already changed. THANKS!"

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 5 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 17, 2008

SOURCE: shuddering/jerking on highway, pull over, wont start for 30 mins

Last time I had that happen in a car everything blew. I found out the root of the problem was my timing chain, but I can tell you, you don't want to wait to get that checked out in any case or you will end up with a lot more problems.

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Anonymous

  • 2 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 13, 2008

SOURCE: Car starts then stalls once the engine warms up.

You need new timing belt and gears. Buicks gears are made of plastic, and become a big glob. Nothing for the timing belt to grab onto.

emissionwiz

Marvin

  • 85242 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 16, 2008

SOURCE: Hard to start in the morning. Also stalls

This sounds like a fuel pump check valve problem, if the fuel is not kept in the filter and lines by the check valve it drains back into the fuel tank and causes the kind of problems you are having, you can check this by hooking up a fuel pressure guage at the test port on the fuel manifold that supplies fuel to the injectors, run the engine and shut it down, note the fuel pressure at shut down (with the test guage hooked up), walk away for an hour, come back and check the pressure, it should not have dropped more than 5 PSI You can buy a universal fuel injection pressure tester for about $25.00, cheaper than having a shop run the test. If the pressure drops you found the problem, bad news is the check valve is in the pump, the pump is in the gas tank.

emissionwiz

Marvin

  • 85242 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 14, 2009

SOURCE: Check engine light comes on...car will stall with no warning

U have a problem in the ignition system, most likely the ignition module or the crank sensor are failing, it will strand you soon and not restart, have it checked ASAP.

Anonymous

  • 88 Answers
  • Posted on May 23, 2009

SOURCE: car stalls, chugs, hard start

change fuel filter add 2 bottles heat tell fix ya bout me ok

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Why does my engine stall when idling bf falcon only does it some times ?

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Use an ohm meter to check your fuel injectors (with the engine running), by removing the wire from the injector. Two metal prongs sit inside the connector. Set the meter for the ohm setting. Touch the red meter lead to one contact and the black lead to the other prong. The ohm resistance number should be the about the same for all the injectors. If any injector reading shows a higher or lower than average number, the cause will be a defective injector, which will cause a rough idle. A zero reading will indicate a shorted injector, and must be replaced. You can also use a stethoscope or a long handled screwdriver to place on the injector head. You should be able to hear a clicking sound, telling you that the injector is "pulsing." No clicking sound indicates a dead injector.
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Examine the choke setting on a vehicle equipped with a choke adjusting knob or mechanism. Make sure the choke operates by opening slowly during normal engine warm-up. A choke that fails to open or sticks shut during warm engine running will cause a constant misfire and rough idle. A choke stuck in the open position will not allow an engine to warm up properly.
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The engine kills in the first mile.

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If the sensor detects a problem, it sends a trouble code to the ECM and your "check engine" light will come on. IMO, your symptom sounds like "cold engine" issue. Myself, our 98 Toyota Rav4 will idle rough and engine stalls when put in drive, but the problem goes away when temperature shows the engine had warmed up to operating temperature. FYI the temperature sensor monitors the radiator coolant temperature. Normal engine temperature is when coolant reaches 120 degree fahrenheit. At around 130 to 140 degrees fahrenheit, the coolant thermostat opens to let radiator coolant flow from "bypass" mode to "enter radiator" mode. If it takes longer than 10 minutes for your engine to warm up, its possible the coolant thermostat is stuck in open "enter radiator" mode. When thermostat is close, coolant radiator bypass the radiator to speed up engine warm up, but if its stuck in open, it will take longer to warm up the engine. Another factor is ambient temperature. If its cold below 50 fahrenheit, it will take longer to warm up the engine.
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I am haveing trouble with my 1996 Mazda B2300, When I start my truck after its been sitting for any length of timeI have to rev the engine to get it started, I have to continue reving until engine is warm...

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andy
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