The housing where the rear axle bearing sits is bent up-ward slightly. This was caused by the axle breaking in half while being under to much stress. My question is will this cause problems when i replace the axle and new bearing?

Sorry to say it sounds like you have a bent axle, If you mean Drive shaft when you say propeller shaft, then that's either because you also bent the driveshaft or you have u-joints that have gone bad. It sounds like a mess, Did you hit something or run over something? Rear axle don't just get bent form nothing. Has there been a grinding noise for awhile coming from the rear area? Your axle bearing or wheel hub bearing may be shot causing the wobble,

they get noisier and can spin on the half shaft seizing it to it causing more expense. it can also seize in the spindle hub causing damage.

the axle could be bent or damaged, the differential housing could be damaged, could be wrong bearing. you don`t say if this is a rear wheel drive you have or just a front wheel drive. there are front wheel drive bearings that have problems even new, because of manufacturing problems or inferior materials. try a different manufacture for a bearing.

I assume that the wobble is side to side and not up and down. The most benign cause of wheel wobble is a bent tire rim; but since you've tried another wheel and still get the wobble, the cause could be a bent housing, bad bearing, a number of things. In any case, if you don't get it fixed, a castastrophic failure is likely to happen. The rear axle is semi-floating; the axle and wheel are held on only by the pressed-on bearing and a small circlip. See a mechanic ASAP.

what about it?

conventional axle or limited slip? Get axle code off door sticker.

SECTION 205-02: Rear Drive Axle/Differential - Ford 8.8-Inch Ring Gear 1998 Explorer/Mountaineer Workshop Manual
IN-VEHICLE REPAIR Rear Wheel Bearing and Axle Shaft Oil Seal -4.0L SOHC and 4.0L EI, Conventional
Special Tool(s) Axle Seal Replacer
T83T-1175-A Axle Wheel Bearing Puller
T83T-1225-A Axle Wheel Bearing Replacer
T83T-1225-B Driver Handle
T80T-4000-W Impact Slide Hammer
T50T-100-A
Removal

1. Remove the axle shaft; refer to Axle Shaft in this section.

Axle Shaft Removal

1. CAUTION: Do not use heat to loosen a seized lug nut. Heat can damage the wheel (1007) and the rear wheel bearings (1225).
   Loosen the lug nuts (1012).
   1. Remove the center cap.
   1. With the weight of the vehicle on the wheels, loosen the lug nuts.

1. Raise and support the vehicle.

1. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
   1. Remove the lug nuts.
   1. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.

1. Remove the axle housing cover (4033).
   1. Loosen the axle housing cover bolts (4346) and drain the rear axle (4001).
   1. Remove the axle housing cover bolts.
   1. Remove the axle housing cover.

1. Remove the rear disc brake rotors (2C026); refer to Section 206-04 .

1. CAUTION: Once the differential pinion shaft (4211) has been removed, turning the differential case (4204) or an axle shaft (4234) will cause the differential pinion gears (4215) to fall out of the assembly. This could result in chipped or damaged components.
   Remove the differential pinion shaft.
   1. Remove the differential pinion shaft lock bolt.
   1. Remove the differential pinion shaft.

1. CAUTION: Do not damage the rubber O-rings in the U-washer grooves.
   Remove the U-washers (4N237).
   1. Push the axle shafts inboard.
   1. Remove the U-washers.

1. Reinstall the differential pinion shaft.
   1. Install the differential pinion shaft.
   1. Install the differential pinion shaft lock bolt finger-tight.

1. CAUTION: Do not damage the inner wheel bearing oil seal (1177).
   Remove the two axle shafts.

Installation

1. Lubricate the lip of the inner wheel bearing oil seal.
   • Use Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.

1. CAUTION: Once the differential pinion shaft has been removed, turning the differential case or an axle shaft will cause the differential pinion gears to fall out of the assembly. This could result in chipped or damaged components.
   Remove the differential pinion shaft.
   1. Remove the differential pinion shaft lock bolt.
   1. Remove the differential pinion shaft.

1. CAUTION: Do not damage the inner wheel bearing oil seal.
   Install the two axle shafts.

1. CAUTION: Do not damage the rubber O-rings in the U-washer grooves.
   Install the U-washers.
   1. Position the two U-washers on the button end of the axle shafts.
   1. Pull the axle shafts outward.

1. Install the differential pinion shaft.
   1. Align the hole in the differential pinion shaft with the differential pinion shaft lock bolt hole.
   1. Install the differential pinion shaft lock bolt.

1. Install the rear disc brake rotors; refer to Section 206-04 .

1. Install the axle housing cover and fill the rear axle housing (4010) with 2.4 liters (5.5 pints) of specified lubricant; refer to Axle Housing Cover in this section.

1. WARNING: Always remove any corrosion, dirt or foreign material that may be present on the mounting surfaces of the wheel or the surface of the wheel hub or rear disc brake rotor that contacts the wheel. Installing wheels without proper metal-to-metal contact at the wheel mounting surfaces can cause the lug nut to loosen and the wheel to come off while the vehicle is in motion, causing loss of control.
   Clean the wheel hub and mounting surfaces.

1. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
   1. Position the tire and wheel assembly.
   1. Install the lug nuts and lower the vehicle.
   1. Tighten the lug nuts.
   1. Install the center cap.

1. CAUTION: Never remove the axle shaft oil seal by itself. Always remove the rear wheel bearing and the axle shaft oil seal at the same time.
   NOTE: If the axle shaft oil seal is leaking, the axle housing vent may be plugged with debris.
   Use Impact Slide Hammer and Axle Wheel Bearing Puller to remove the rear wheel bearing and the axle shaft oil seal.

Installation

1. Lubricate the new rear wheel bearing.
   1. Use Thermally Stable Rear Axle Lubricant XY-80W90-QL or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSP-M2C197-A.

1. Use Axle Wheel Bearing Replacer with Driver Handle to install the rear wheel bearing.

1. Lubricate the lip of the new axle shaft oil seal.
   • Use Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.

1. Use Axle Seal Replacer with Driver Handle to install the axle shaft oil seal.

1. Install the axle shaft; refer to Axle Shaft in this section.

Usually, the rear pinion bearing will make a higher pitched whining noise under a slight load. As soon as the throttle pedal is released, the noise stops. The rear axle shaft bearings will make a lower growling rumble when they are bad.

Another thing to check are the Emergency brakeshoes inside the hub of the rear rotors. The shoe material frequently separates from the rusty shoe plates and the bonded material gets pulverized. This would be similar to a "rocks crushing" sound and can cause vibration in the drivetrain.

The U-joints can cause this problem too. Check for rust and oil streaks which appear shortly before the U-joints fall apart. You should find telltale streaks on the undercarriage of your vehicle.
The front driveshaft can cause noise without being powered. There is just enough sympathetic rotation when the 4 wheel drive is Off, to cause sounds and vibration.

Testing can be aided by using a Commercial hoist and having the drivetrain engaged with the engine running. You would observe the shaking or use a probe "long broom handle" to the stationary parts like the axle tubes, differential housing, pinion bearing area, and so on. This would require a helper to sit in the hoisted vehicle and a second person to stand under a running machine. Not for the faint of heart. No baggy or loose fitting clothes, no long hair, etc.

Now there is a specialized machine which can Electronically investigate noise and vibration. There are sensors which are placed under the vehicle and it listens to vibrations. I saw one machine one time. It helps in balancing driveshafts too. A driveshaft balancing shop may be able to fix you up.

I hope my solutions are very helpful to you. If you do not have the exotic testing equipment you may have to drop the driveshafts to check your U-joints.

this procedure is for replacing the axle bearing, it has all the info u need to do whatever it is u are doing with the axle removed.

Instructions Things You'll Need:

• Floor jack
• Jack stands
• Axle puller
• Set of 3/8-inch drive sockets
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• Needle nose pliers
• Set of ¼-inch drive sockets
• ¼-inch drive ratchet
• Hammer
• Lug wrench
• Tube of RTV silicone
• 2 bottles of rear axle oil
• Bucket

1. Step 1 Raise and support the rear of the vehicle. Remove the wheels. Remove the rear cover on the third member or axle. Place the bucket under the rear to catch the fluid. Remove the brake drums if the vehicle has drum brakes.
   
2. Step 2 Rotate the outside axle until the center carrier is in a position where the small 8 mm or ¼-inch bolt is at 7 o'clock and clear of the housing so that it can be removed. This is the bolt holding the center through pin that runs through both spider gears. Position the carrier so that when the bolt is removed, the pin can be dropped straight down without contacting the housing.
   
3. Step 3 Remove the center pin and lay it in the cover with its retaining bolt. Do not rotate the carrier with the pin out, since the pin is what holds the spider gears in place. If the carrier is turned, the spider gears would need to be adjusted so that they line up again with the hole for the through pin.
   
4. Step 4 Push both axles in toward the carrier. This is now possible because the through-pin has been removed. This will expose the C-clips that hold the axles from coming out of the carrier. Remove the C-clips with the needle nose pliers and lay them in the pan. Pull the axles out of the housing and stand them up.
   
5. Step 5 Remove the outside axle bearings and seals with the axle puller. The axle puller has several ends of different sizes; pick the one that fits through the center of the bearing. The axle puller is a sliding hammer with a T-end that can swivel. When the puller end is inserted through the bearing, rotate it slightly to get the T-end to swivel up and grab the bearing. Using the slide hammer, hammer the bearing and seal out of the housing.
   
6. Step 6 Clean the housing surface where the bearing will be seated. Place the new bearing into the housing as far as it will go, and make sure it goes in straight. Place the old bearing on top of the new bearing and hit it with the hammer to drive the new bearing in. Tap it on in a circular pattern and continue until there is a resounding difference in sound as the bearing contacts the lip in the axle (it will sound more solid). Remove the old bearing.
   
7. Step 7 Install the seal by tapping it carefully on four corners, avoiding the rubber part of the seal, until it is seated. Do not bend the housing or it will leak.
   
8. Step 8 Install the axles and push them in all the way. Insert the C-clips on the ends of the axles and pull the axles back out to seat the C-clips in the carrier. Insert the pin back into the carrier through the spider gears and install the small retaining bolt to keep the pin in.
   
9. Step 9 Clean the face of the housing and the axle cover where the gasket material will seal. Use brake cleaner or alcohol to remove all the oil from the surface to be sealed. Smear some RTV silicone sealant on the axle cover around the edge in a continuous line about a quarter of an inch thick. Allow the cover to sit until the RTV silicone sealant cures to the point that it will not transfer to the fingers when touched. The proper terminology is when it "skins," or is still wet inside but starting to dry on the outside; this way it will stay in place.
   

I quote from service manual

1 . Raise and support the truck. Remove the rear wheels, the brake drum or brake caliper and rotor. If this is a disc brake, support caliper with wire. Remove seal retainer nuts from axle
housing.

2 . Pull out the axle shaft from housing. Remove the snap ring and bearing race from the axle shaft. Cut the bearing retainer. Break the bearing cage using a hammer and chisel and remove cage and rollers.

3 . Remove the oil seal, the seal retainer and the parking brake assembly (rear). Using a hydraulic press and bearing splitter, press the inner race from axle shaft. Inspect axle shaft for seal wear. Ensure that the shaft is not bent.

rear axle bearings I assume? Pull the diff cover, rotate the carrier so you can remove the pin from the center of the 4 spyder gears, push the axle in slightly, and remove large c clip from the carrier area. The axle will pull right out! These vehicles are hard on axle bearings. Look them all over.

Good Luck!

1. There should be a metal tag on the diff cover, held on by one of the cover bolts. This will help you ID the unit. If it's gone then someone will have to look at it that knows these rears. If the axle surface that is scored rides on the bearing surfaces, is scored then it needs to be replaced. 2. the easiest way to know if you got all parts of the old bearing out is to look at a new bearing. 3. I can't remember the manufacturer (maybe sosmetal?), but there used to be a bearing setup that changes the position of the bearing & seal on the axle so it rides on an undamaged part, so you can still use the axle. Check with any local old style parts house (not one of the new fast food type places) you may get some help there.
Also... if the bearing failure was extensive, make sure you remove diff cover and clean out all debris from the gear set housing... any junk left behind can destroy pinion and side bearings!!!