Why wont the car start?

THAT IS CALLED A DEAD STARTER OR NO CRANK . condition. period.
6 TO 10- CAUSES of dead starter.
WHAT WORDS AND GOALS (stages)
CRANKS (key to start/crank) or button start /stop pushed for start.
STARTS (loud cranking heard if engine is dead)_
AND RUNS (grins)
AND STAYS RUNNING, (bliss)
IN THAT ORDER ONLY, MY CAR PUSH STARTS SO GOES FROM PUSH TO RUNS,. JUST 2 STEPS(stick shift bliss this) M/Tbox.
when kid 15yo id park on a hill and do rolling starts. 3 speed manual box then./

turns over means zero, (turns = spins the starter spins and if lucky the engine crank shaft spins or turns and if lucky starts.
turns never means runs. ever. it is called RUNNING.
some call running at idle others (old) say engine ticks over.
yes heard all the slang but do avoid TURNS. and OVER.()roger over and out)

https://youtu.be/2OBZf0QdKdE

I just fixed my neighbors, the hood knows i diagnose cars for free, retired me.
her car the battery reads, 10.7vDC (truth here is only discharged)
2020 Nissan.
head lamps bright, proves nothing here. at all (unless fully dead lamps)
the battery pushes 5 amps to head lamp but can not muster 100amps to the starter. so starter is dead or after 10 tries. tiny clicks heard under hood.
I see dash lamp dim a bit at crank attempts, a huge clue there.

causes. are: in order.
including lies the BCM dash lamp tells. (key IMMO failure lamp glows)
a huge lie there, 2020 car, and I know why the 10.7vdc battery causes most computers on board to lie or be dead.


(fast forward, only here the battery is dead. and no DTC ever stored, after cure.

PCM OBD2 jack we scan the under dash jack, shows comms dead, CAN_bus dead (her car)
and expected by me. (took 20min after my full charge the cars electronics to work again, ) NOTE THE DELAY.
now your causes all and in order
battery lugs, loose or rusty or both
no battery ever lasted 17 years, so is on 2 or 3 battery now. or due for 3rd !!!!!


on the gals car above the tag top-o-bat reads 2020 see? I always look at tags.

1. battery lugs ok, and clean', battery not 7 years old or more.
2. battery voltage not 10v but 12.6vdc , rested 1hr. is it? if not charge it.we ran a 75ft extension from her house to street to charge it. with my charger.
3. or drag the battery to the work bench and charge it. or to any shop,say test it. this battery in hand,.. (way cheaper than any tow truck) or jump start it.
4. my load bank test shows hard failure, even no load, and BAD shows on dial loaded, but the battery in here car is good, and fails this test.
5. next up, charged, the IMMO key lamp must not show failing key,we tried both. keys.
6. starter relay bad.
7. PRNDL fails at start in Park and Reverse both, or just park. bingo SOLVED
8. the starter is bad, even hot wired it fails keys not near car.
9. simple failures here, just a starter not the 50causes of engine failure.

I only jumper cable start cars if in some kind of panic (stalled in snow bank)?
I charge the battery first with the tool called a battery charger.
this is more safe for electronics old relic chargers can push 20vdc and never is that safe for modern cars(computers max).
my charger is a smart charger.


this one is real good, 1hr charge and it is 90% charged, from 10.7v.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart-Maxx-15-Amp-Battery-Charger-and-Maintainer-with-40-Amp-Engine-Start-BC40BE/438914356?athbdg=L1103&from=/search

Make sure the battery has a full charge. If you use a digital multimeter across battery posts, everything off, the generic spec for a full charge is around 12.6 volts.
If your using a jump box or charger, hopefully the gage on the tool will tell you something?
If you want to check the starter motor or wiring circuits at the starter motor, we can do that. If you try that, make sure tranny is in park or neutral and functional parking brake is set.

The red clamp on the charger goes to the + sign on the battery. The black goes to the -. I you want a deep charge(best) set the charger on 2 amps and run it for 8 to 12 hours. If you need to get the car started, set the charger on 225 amps for just a couple of minutes. Start the car while it is on..2 amps can charge forever. 20 amps for 30 minutes. 30 to 40 amps for 15 minutes. 225 amps for five minutes..DO NOT charge 20+ amps for hours. It will kill the battery

take the air temp sensor off. and leave in warm house. till at your homes warm temp then go out and install the sensor.and start engine. if it starts this is your problem.

Just fully dead? No clicking or anything when trying to start it (key to position START)?

lots of possible issues, but the first place due to a dead battery, or a main battery wire that's broken or simply come loose.

If it's a dead battery, you need to determine if it's just lived its life, or if your alternator is dead. This is what charges your battery while the engine is running.

Try charging your battery overnight using a good commercial battery charger. They're not too expensive and you'll find lots of uses over the years for them anyway. Just look online for 'auto battery charger maintainer', or at your local auto parts retailer.

Once you get your car up and running again, even temporarily, find a 'Batteries Plus' type place. They'll test your electrical system (battery and alternator) for FREE and let you know what's up. They also sell car batteries...

Was the battery checked before it was sold to you? Batteries will lose their charge over a period of time even when not hooked up. If you have a voltmeter it should read 12.8 volts on a fully charged battery.
Have you tried to boost the car with cables?
I suspect if the car was working OK 3 months ago it should start. Which leads me to suggest an undercharged battery.

Why do you feel it isn't charging. Are you going off of a voltage ereadiing? I ask because if it is reading 12 v at the battery , Do not run it very long. The lower the voltage the higher the amps. An Alternator will ocweheat and self destruct if it is working at its high limit for 15 minutes or so. A heavy charge iis normal for 30 seconds or so to make up for the starting drain. But, should show a gradual rise within seconds. An alternator is for battery charge maintenance only and should never be used to charge a dead battery. A dead battery can an will over tax the alternator for too long. A defective battery will do the same thing and it is usually why you have to change the alternator in the first place. So, If your battery is dead or extremely lpw, it should be charged with a charger Do not put a new or rebuilt Aly. sgainst a possible bad battery. It costs nothing to have your batt load tested by a auto parts store. Good Luck=Ned-.

remove battery and charge using a battery charger remember to loosen caps on top of battery to allow internal gases to escape any further problems I would advise a new battery

sounds like the battery got run down so far that it wont hold a charge-maybe take the battery out and take it to a parts store that can "load test"the battery-some testers can actually test the battery even if its dead-also when u charge a battery u have to make sure the clamps from the charger make a good connection. i read somewhere that everytime a battery goes dead it shortens the life of the battery-FYI most batteries last from 4-5 years if there are no other problems with the car.hope this points u in the right direction.

well if the altenator is charging it will run after getting a jump, you replied you put a battery charger on it but that dont mean the cold cranking amps are good or it could have a dead cell. I would have the battery tested for sure. If you didnt drive far after jump the altenator may be bad but having the battery charged and still does it tells me it is least likely. If the battery tests good the cables could be corroded under the sheath where you cant see. There are other reasons but from what you have posted sounds like you need a battery most auto stores test them for free (load test also)